Any Electricians on here???

its got little yellow buttons on the “test” switch/button on each breaker if that helps any? Lol

It’s a cutler hammer panel so you’d have to read the fine print on the labels on the breakers themselves, but from the labels that I could read that said (garage gfi for example) it leads me to believe that your tank outlet is on a afci breaker which are NOTORIOUSLY over sensitive.
 
It’s a cutler hammer panel so you’d have to read the fine print on the labels on the breakers themselves, but from the labels that I could read that said (garage gfi for example) it leads me to believe that your tank outlet is on a afci breaker which are NOTORIOUSLY over sensitive.

is There anything you can do about that?
 
is There anything you can do about that?
The quickest and easiest solution would be to just replace with the same size amperage normal cutler hammer breaker (home depot or Lowe’s) and install a gfci outlet to run your tank. It does involve getting into your live panel, so if that’s not something your comfortable with, I highly recommend getting with your electrician of choice. The downside is we’re kinda expensive lol. UNLESS, you happen to know one who does side work :)
 
The quickest and easiest solution would be to just replace with the same size amperage normal cutler hammer breaker (home depot or Lowe’s) and install a gfci outlet to run your tank. It does involve getting into your live panel, so if that’s not something your comfortable with, I highly recommend getting with your electrician of choice. The downside is we’re kinda expensive lol. UNLESS, you happen to know one who does side work :)

luckil
The quickest and easiest solution would be to just replace with the same size amperage normal cutler hammer breaker (home depot or Lowe’s) and install a gfci outlet to run your tank. It does involve getting into your live panel, so if that’s not something your comfortable with, I highly recommend getting with your electrician of choice. The downside is we’re kinda expensive lol. UNLESS, you happen to know one who does side work :)
Luckily I supply commercial construction equipment and half of my customers are electricians!
 
It should say right above the test button which style it is, but as previously mentioned that are st*pid overly sensitive. I know in square d homeline breakers the color of the push button indicates the style of fci.
 
20191211_055142.jpg


This is square d homeline sticker... not sure if it's the same for all brands.
 
I would take Vlad's advice. I have been a Master Electrician for fifty years and I threw out most of the GFIs in my panel as they are just to sensitive and you don't need them on everything even though most codes say you do.
Put in an GFI receptacle or better yet, put 2 of them on your tank equipment on the one circuit.
 
I would take Vlad's advice. I have been a Master Electrician for fifty years and I threw out most of the GFIs in my panel as they are just to sensitive and you don't need them on everything even though most codes say you do.
Put in an GFI receptacle or better yet, put 2 of them on your tank equipment on the one circuit.

just to be clear this is a type of outlet, right? So I basically need to change out the two outlets my tank is plugged in to?
 
If the breaker has a yellow test button (right side of panel), replace it with one (same amperage as what you remove) with one that looks similar to what you have on the left side.. no test button. Looks like Eaton Cuttler Hammer brand.

Then, at the outlet, replace it with a GFCI like below (this is a 15A version, it will work if your wiring and breaker are 20A...however the opposite is not true, don't put a 20A GFCI receptacle on a 15A circuit). If you have two outlets, you have some different options.
1) You can get one GFCI outlet and attach power in to LINE (always power in) and the next outlet to LOAD. This will protect anything on the LOAD side with GFCI. HOWEVER, if it trips, all outlets on the LOAD side will turn off. Similar to how your breaker setup is.
2) You can get 2 GFCI outlets, and when running the wire only connect to the LINE side, and then connect the next outlet from the LINE side on one to the LINE side on the other. This gives each individual outlet GFCI protection, and if one GFCI trips, the rest of the outlet will still continue to run.


1576068838040.png

 
If the breaker has a yellow test button (right side of panel), replace it with one (same amperage as what you remove) with one that looks similar to what you have on the left side.. no test button. Looks like Eaton Cuttler Hammer brand.

Then, at the outlet, replace it with a GFCI like below (this is a 15A version, it will work if your wiring and breaker are 20A...however the opposite is not true, don't put a 20A GFCI receptacle on a 15A circuit). If you have two outlets, you have some different options.
1) You can get one GFCI outlet and attach power in to LINE (always power in) and the next outlet to LOAD. This will protect anything on the LOAD side with GFCI. HOWEVER, if it trips, all outlets on the LOAD side will turn off. Similar to how your breaker setup is.
2) You can get 2 GFCI outlets, and when running the wire only connect to the LINE side, and then connect the next outlet from the LINE side on one to the LINE side on the other. This gives each individual outlet GFCI protection, and if one GFCI trips, the rest of the outlet will still continue to run.


1576068838040.png


man I really appreciate you explaining this to me, but it’s still like reading Spanish. I will have to get someone who knows a little about electric to help me. Thanks again!
 
If the two outlets are on the same circuit your electrician will be able to load side protect the other but if they’re on separate circuits then yes you’ll need two.
 
If the two outlets are on the same circuit your electrician will be able to load side protect the other but if they’re on separate circuits then yes you’ll need two.
I know they are on same circuit because I split them up and the breaker flipped and both shut off.
 
If the two outlets are on the same circuit your electrician will be able to load side protect the other but if they’re on separate circuits then yes you’ll need two.

will let an electrician buddy read these posts and see what we can do. Will update you and thanks again!
 

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