My heniochus has been flashing a little bit the past couple days, and his fins seems to be deteriorating. It eats fine, and acts normal most of the time. There are no other fish in the tank that seem to bother it. ATTACH=full]319018[/ATTACH]
Any idea what's wrong with my Heniochus?
- Thread starter bassrock234
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melypr1985
totally addicted
Ok, Have you noticed any white spots on him? If not, then I'd suggest a FW dip to confirm/rule out flukes as the cause of the flashing. The bacterial infection would come second to solving the parasite issue. I'll get the info on how to do that for you.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
bassrock234
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I didn't notice any ich spots until yesterday after a small water change.
This morning he did still have some ich spots.
I prepped a freshwater dip last night and cameronh and myself dipped it this morning. It seems to have gotten rid of most of its spots, still has a few though.
We didn't notice any worm looking things in the bottom of the bucket, but there was some flakey looking stuff floating around in there after the dip.
This morning he did still have some ich spots.
I prepped a freshwater dip last night and cameronh and myself dipped it this morning. It seems to have gotten rid of most of its spots, still has a few though.
We didn't notice any worm looking things in the bottom of the bucket, but there was some flakey looking stuff floating around in there after the dip.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Sounds like he has flukes and ick. Luckily you can fix that.
I've done dips on tangs and after, it looked like it was a snow globe of dead flukes.^^Agree with Meredith. Basically, you need to take this fish (and now all other fish he has shared water with) and treat for ich, flukes and possibly a bacterial infection. Treat him like he's a new fish that you need to prophylactically treat for any & all diseases. So he (and you) can get a clean slate.
