Any ideas for installing baffles to an existing setup?

Literallyhydro

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I have a 125 gallon mixed reef with a 33 gallon glass sump. I didn't plan for a refugium at all in the beginning, so it was just baffles to separate the drain from the return.

So, now I want to run a refugium. I have a maximum space about 15x12 I can run a refugium. Is that enough to aid in nutrient export?

I want to install some baffles to separate the skimmer from the refugium. Is there a means to do that without removing the sump from under the tank? I've heard of people using weatherstripping to pressure fit baffles, but I've not seen it in action.

Does anybody have any ideas or recommendations?
 
I have wet-fitted baffles by using magnets to hold them in place. Depends a bit on how much of a water height differential the baffle will be asked to resist.
 
I'd be afraid of the weather stripping breaking down and causing issues down the road. The best way I can think of doing this is just to drain the sump and silicone in the baffles, allow it to cure for at least 24 hours and then fill it back up.
 
Id it possible for you to setup a temporary sump while You drain ,dry,install & wait for silicone to cure ? The longer cure time the better. I also want to change my sump. Add baffles & make the refugium bigger. Been considering how to pull this off also.
 
Id it possible for you to setup a temporary sump while You drain ,dry,install & wait for silicone to cure ? The longer cure time the better. I also want to change my sump. Add baffles & make the refugium bigger. Been considering how to pull this off also.

Honestly if you add the heater to the display temporarily things would be fine for a day or 2. That is what I did when I redid my sump area. Actually I had it like that for close to a week.
 
Be careful on cure time. I acted too soon once & my critters "didn't " like that one bit. I didn't lose anything but I freaked ! LOL
 
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I should be able to drain the sump for a day. The water level difference from the drain to the refugium is nonexistent. I more so need the baffles in place to keep chaeto from clogging my pumps, and stop the light from hitting the skimmer
 
If you don't want to drain it you can always drop a container, tank, or bucket thats taller than your waterline into the space and just let it spill over into skimmer section.
 
Just keep in mind that the 24 hour cure time for silicone is based on a 1/8" bead. The next time I install a baffle with just a 1/8" bead will be the first time. I always give it a week to cure.
 
Since the water level will be identical to the skimmer chamber, I should be fine to just use a very small bead of silicone so it cures in a day, right?

I'd also imagine the thickness of the glass wouldn't be very important since the height difference wouldn't even be a factor.
 
Since the water level will be identical to the skimmer chamber, I should be fine to just use a very small bead of silicone so it cures in a day, right?

I wouldn't view 24 hours as prudent, but YMMV. If you do, make sure to use an acetoxy cure silicone (GE1 or similar) rather than a neutral cure (GE2). Both are reef safe once cured, but the latter is much more toxic if not properly cured.
 
You can use this goo.gl/vRcCR8. Its a 1 1/2" thick mesh that you could wedge into your sump creating a separate chamber. BRS is using it in their ULM systems to create refugiums in systems without sumps.
 
You can use this goo.gl/vRcCR8. Its a 1 1/2" thick mesh that you could wedge into your sump creating a separate chamber. BRS is using it in their ULM systems to create refugiums in systems without sumps.
Now that's a good idea. The chaeto won't be able to reach the skimmer. Although I imagine it needs to be cleaned periodically since it'll get hit by the refugium light.
 
Now that's a good idea. The chaeto won't be able to reach the skimmer. Although I imagine it needs to be cleaned periodically since it'll get hit by the refugium light.
I think i am going to try this on a sump i am using attached to a system curing rock. You could have two pieces and just switch them out if you need to clean.
 
I think i am going to try this on a sump i am using attached to a system curing rock. You could have two pieces and just switch them out if you need to clean.
Good idea. What do you think would be the most effective means to clean a mesh pad with? It's likely to get all kinds of hair algae growing on it.
 
I have a 125 gallon mixed reef with a 33 gallon glass sump. I didn't plan for a refugium at all in the beginning, so it was just baffles to separate the drain from the return.

So, now I want to run a refugium. I have a maximum space about 15x12 I can run a refugium. Is that enough to aid in nutrient export?

I want to install some baffles to separate the skimmer from the refugium. Is there a means to do that without removing the sump from under the tank? I've heard of people using weatherstripping to pressure fit baffles, but I've not seen it in action.

Does anybody have any ideas or recommendations?

I am also adding a 12 X 14 X 14 refugium to my sump, but instead of adding a baffle, I am having Tap Plastics manufacture an acrylic insert. Should be done in about a week. The side that the water will flow over is 3" shorter than the walls and back, which are a bit shorter than my sump height. The overflow side will be solid black to prevent light leaking into the rest of the sump. It will be fed by the tank overflow and house pods, Chaeto and MarinePure cubes (mainly want it to breed the pods). The main nutrient export for my well-fed 165 gallon tank is a Pax Bellum Arid N24 Chaeto Reactor.
 
I am also adding a 12 X 14 X 14 refugium to my sump, but instead of adding a baffle, I am having Tap Plastics manufacture an acrylic insert. Should be done in about a week. The side that the water will flow over is 3" shorter than the walls and back, which are a bit shorter than my sump height. The overflow side will be solid black to prevent light leaking into the rest of the sump. It will be fed by the tank overflow and house pods, Chaeto and MarinePure cubes (mainly want it to breed the pods). The main nutrient export for my well-fed 165 gallon tank is a Pax Bellum Arid N24 Chaeto Reactor.
Is the insert going to wedge into place or what? This is an interesting idea as well. Especially since you can block off the light from reaching into places you don't want it.
 
I have wet-fitted baffles by using magnets to hold them in place. Depends a bit on how much of a water height differential the baffle will be asked to resist.

That’s a cool idea. Did you make these or buy them?
 

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