I don’t know, ORA is the source
Hard angle to say for sure from the pic, but if it has a yellow head and is from ORA, then I'd guess that's a Lemon Damsel,
Pomacentrus moluccensis. Does that look right to you?
If so, I know some Pomacentrus species have been reared with ~70% survival by feeding S-Strain Rotifers (
Brachionus rotundiformis) for 3 days, then weaned onto L-Strain Rotifers (
Brachionus plicatilis) and fed those until day 9 or 10 post hatching, at which point they're weaned onto Artemia nauplii (Baby Brine Shrimp) over the next 3-4 days.*
I know
P. moluccensis specifically has been reared with an ~10% survival rate to day 15 post hatch with just rotifers,** so I suspect weaning them onto the Artemia nauplii would improve survival to that point and enable survival beyond it too.
Anyway, assuming this feeding routine works for your fish, you should be able to start weaning them onto a traditional aquarium diet (i.e. frozen, pellets, etc.) at some point - I'd probably hold off until the fish start reaching settlement though.
Also,
P. moluccensis reportedly lays batches of eggs every ~10-15 days, so you should have another chance if you miss this one. The eggs should hatch in the evening ~6 days after they're laid.**
For the rearing aside from the food, the first source below has good info for large scale rearing, but basically:
-Setup a little, simple tank.
(The larval rearing tank).
-Add the larvae.
-Add the larval food and enough phytoplankton to tint the water green.
(The phytoplankton helps dim the lighting so it's not too bright for sensitive larvae, it makes it easier for the larvae to see the feeders, and it gutloads the feeders so they're more nutritious when eaten).
-Adjust feeding as needed as the larvae grow; you typically should start feeding regular fish food in addition to the larval food around settlement.
For the larval rearing tank, you'd probably want something a bit bigger than the example below, but it should give you the general idea:
For a very simple larval rearing tank, take a container, put saltwater in it, add an airstone/gentle sponge filter, and - if needed - a heater that is blocked off by a fine mesh (preferably less than 40 microns).
For an example of a simple larval rearing setup:
Hi, Im going to post a breeding guide of palaemon elegans shrimps here. Two females are preparing for spawning so if you are interested you may want to stick with me. This breeding guide will be interchangable for every kind of shrimps but i stick elegans because: - With cleaner shrimp we are...
www.reef2reef.com
Some species require lighting, others don't; running a light that's bright enough to ensure the larvae can clearly see the feeders in the tank without being overly bright is generally a safe option. A 12 light:12 dark or 14 light:10 dark lighting schedule is suggested; some people also run dim "night lights" in the room away from the tank for the larvae.
If you see larvae headbutting the wall of the tank, that's a sign the light is reflecting off the tank wall and attracting the larvae, causing "head-butting syndrome" where the larvae ram into the wall often until they die - if you see this, you'll need to blackout the tank, but I haven't seen this be a big issue for most people.
*Source:
**Source:
Breeding Journal DataSheet This first post should be updated regularly to include new information as events take place or changes are made to your system General Species: Pomacentrus moluccensis Social S...
www.mbisite.org
