Any op's on decent activated carbon ???

I'd also like a source of some type of material that can still retain small carbon pieces and not hinder flow too much. I have a small 2 little fishes reactor . The sponges ,if that is what you could call it works just fine for holding carbon. I admit I don't know how small the Rox is. Could one fill a bag and stuff it into a reactor maybe?
 
I have 1000 micron polypropylene screening which I have glued to one of those mesh biopellet screens. I then cut the middle hole for the TLF reactor tube really tight so it is a snug fit. This actually works really well for awhile to hold the Rox down, but after a few change outs the plastic hardens up and the screen doesn't "hang on" to the reactor tube so well anymore and floats up allowing the Rox to tumble and float. I find even at change out time, a significant amount of the Rox is still positively buoyant. Grr...

I just got a brainwave typing this out though...I'm going to try to find an o-ring that will fit the reactor tube. I bet that will hold down the screen indefinitely. I'm curious what Randy uses though...

This is how fine BRS Rox is...
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Do you have a method other than sponges to keep the carbon packed? If so, I'm all ears. :)

Fill it all the way to the brim and cram the lid on. lol
 
I just saw the thread about magnetic carbon. I put a magnet in my black diamond and it was covered with carbon ! So there is surely iron in this carbon. Good or bad? I have no idea. Interesting factoid I think. Ya learn something new every day around here.
 
Fill it all the way to the brim and cram the lid on. lol

Hahaha! Well sure that works, but a full TLF fill using Rox on a ~73 gallon net volume tank is probably not a good idea! I think I'll try my o-ring idea, I haven't used carbon in a few months anyway... ;)
 
I use a large peletized carbon from a local medical supply company- extremely low dust, seems to last longer, and very cheap. Downside seams to be that it is very slow to remove impurities.
 
I would not consider black diamond a good quality GAC for our aquarium usage.

I used Black Diamond for a number of years and saw no difference between it and the BRS stuff that I use now.

This thread reminded me of an article I read a number of years ago in Advanced Aquarist on the effectiveness of GAC to remove DOCs. In their experiment they tested Black Diamond v TLF Hydrocarbon. Here's what they had to say...

"These data lead to the clear conclusion that Black Diamond removes these dyes more rapidly than Hydrocarbon2, and by inference, DOC in general. Whether the factor-of-two difference with the dyes translates to a similar ratio with authentic DOC removal in a marine tank is unknown, but it seems likely that the large advantage enjoyed by Black Diamond for dye removal will lead to enhanced rates of organic clearance for the aquarist."

The entire article can be found here:

Part 1 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/1/aafeature1/

Part 2 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/2/aafeature1#section-5
 
Rox is so tiny and lightweight it floats around in a reactor. It's ok in a bag.

For reactors, I've liked using Acurel because it is very hard, heavy, and not dusty. It is not as efficient as expensive carbons, but I'm more concerned about dust and weight. Though now I'm wondering if there may be phosphate concerns with Acurel. I don't see Acurel mentioned in Boomer's thread. Another brand I've liked is Brightwell's Carbonit-P pelletized carbon.

That's not a good way to use ROX. It should be packed so it doesn't move in a reactor. I use my BRS dual reactor and place the sponges so that there isn't any room for it to move. If you push it all to the top then you don't risk the top sponge migrating up and giving it space.

ROX is by far the best carbon I've ever used. Rinses in seconds and I need far less of it. Also removes both large and smaller compounds due to its varied pore sizes. Most carbons will have either large or smaller pores not both.
 
And from my understanding Boomer worked with Ken or at least corroborated with him as well. I still trust Boomers advice and also explanations on various ratings.


Edit: , post #13 in that thread
 
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HLLE doesn't occur with every fish but GAC has been shown to correlate as a cause when it does happen.

This was the major concern of mine when choosing a carbon. I have 5 tangs and don't want my prized fish looking all beat up. I went with ROX because of the lost dust and fast easy rinsing. It's an easy choice for me to spend a few extra $$ on a safer and more effective product.

None of my tangs show any signs of HLLE with constant exclusive use of ROX 0.8 BRS activated carbon.
 
Used ROX 08 in a BRS reactor with a foam pad above and below the carbon with no issues. Had to switched over to the Zeovit carbon when I switched the tank over to Zeovit System. The zeovit carbon is next level. Never seen water so clear. I use the rox mixed with the marine land black diamond in my Two QTs. Paid to much not to use it.
 
So what's the more cost effective acid washed carbon? I need something that I can buy in large quantity. I'm considering the TLF Hydrocarbon2, and emailed them about bulk quantities.

That's not a good way to use ROX. It should be packed so it doesn't move in a reactor. I use my BRS dual reactor and place the sponges so that there isn't any room for it to move. If you push it all to the top then you don't risk the top sponge migrating up and giving it space.

I'm not a fan of the reactor style that is a modified RO canister. I'm also not a fan of a product (in this case carbon) that requires "special handling" in order to use it. I'll stick with a carbon that's more user friendly.
 

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