Anybody used a router on their tank?

[funkyrxman]

Hello aquatic hive mind. I'm in the process of redoing my 450 gallon tank. I have 4 vortech mp60's, but my acrylic is 1.25 inches on one of the walls, and 1.5 inches along the back walls because of the 1/4 inch thick blue background that makes up the overflows. Has anyone used a router to thin the acrylic in a spot for a vortech? Structurally I think I'd be fine, as I only need to lose 1/4 inch in one spot and 1/2 inch in the other. Can a router be this precise? Would it skitter around on the acrylic? Do I run the apparent risk of screwing up my tank? I've looked into boxes in the overflow, but it's tight. Love R2R[emoji851] I've been lurking for years reading, gleaning as much info as possible from all of you aquatic ninjas.

 

[fragit]

I would not try to do this. I'm sure structurally it would be okay. But having used routers as a cabinet maker, and for a short while as an acrylic aquarium fabricator I can say with great confidence that you have a high probability of chewing up that tank. When you plunge into the acrylic that bit is going to want to bite and take off on you. I would not recommend doing this, and try to come up with a different solution. Just my 2 cents!

 

[funkyrxman]

Thanks so much for the info. Back to the drawing board

 

[fragit]

Thanks so much for the info. Back to the drawing board

Your welcome, good luck!

 

[Pola0502ds]

Even if you used the correct bit this would happen? What about a compression bit or maybe a specific bit for this application? We cut acrylic material like this on our cnc all the time and it works, not sure why it wouldnt.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

This can be done but with an empty tank, template, steady hands, and the acceptance of possible failure. I wouldn't risk it unless you're a professional.

 

[JoshH]

Even if you used the correct bit this would happen? What about a compression bit or maybe a specific bit for this application? We cut acrylic material like this on our cnc all the time and it works, not sure why it wouldnt.

The difference is you are using a CNV machine and this application would be free hand. not easy to hold a router in check with your hands when it first bites

 

[Pola0502ds]

The difference is you are using a CNV machine and this application would be free hand. not easy to hold a router in check with your hands when it first bites

Have you seen those new hand help cnc routers? Looks just like a standard hand held router but bigger and you just place the router in the general area and it moves it for you precisely while you hold it. I would post a link but i cant remember what its called.

 

[JoshH]

I have yes, they are awesome but not something the average person is going to own.

 

[Pola0502ds]

I have yes, they are awesome but not something the average person is going to own.

Obviously, just simply pointing it out

 

[Pepcrylic]

Buy yourself a large diam. forstner drill bit. Dill to the depth you want to remove. Then use the router with correct sized jig to enlarge the hole to your spec. No need to plung the router into the acrylic.

 

[jeff williams]

Buy yourself a large diam. forstner drill bit. Dill to the depth you want to remove. Then use the router with correct sized jig to enlarge the hole to your spec. No need to plung the router into the acrylic.

+1 this will work another way would be use a drill bit with a depth guide on it to start a hole the forstner bits are pricey but very good bits also use a small double fluted router bit and I would cut small circles working your way to the final diameter you will get a much cleaner cut than cutting to the outside diameter and working inward. And lastly before you try this on your tank practice a few times on some scrap acrylic or wood this will get your depth correct and take out the guess work before you try it on the tank

 

[funkyrxman]

Good stuff. Thanks guys

 

[tgp4274]

if do......
don't just cut the entire depth all at once
I'd cut a depth of like a 1/16 at atime
most defiantly use a jig and go slow

i'll agree on the practice first

good luck and let us know how goes

 

[MaddyP]

I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work. I've routered acrylic by hand without much issue. Yes, the bit will pull a little but if you go slow and have a sharp bit, you shouldn't have a problem especially since you are only machining 1/8-1/4".

Either way, this is a novel solution to your thickness problem. Points for ingenuity!

 

[Rick.45cal]

I work with hand routers, templates and precision depth work on a regular basis. I'll strongly urge caution in this, for one this isn't a task for the first timer.

You've got some things seriously working against you in this operation. First and foremost you are routing on a vertical surface, you are now working against gravity and the machine. When routing on a horizontal surface gravity is actually doing the majority of the work for you. So not only are you going to have to control the bit/machine/torque but you are also going to have to apply some degree of force in the direction of the bit. This is going to only make it more difficult to control.

I also would be very wary of using a cheap router with an inaccurate depth stop. Especially in this application there is no room for error. You also must make sure that the bit is seated/firmly in the collet. The last thing you want is the bit wandering out of the collet slightly. (Anyone who does a lot of woodworking with routers can attest to this happening and ruining a work piece).

Using a top bearing compression bit, a template and taking very very light passes of 1/16" or less it's possible. With my level of experience with routers and having top of the line equipment/having a reasonable idea of what complications I may experience I would be hesitant to tackle this on my aquarium. There's no way I could recomend this to someone who doesn't have a ton of experience routing and using a hand router and template routing. (There is actually an art to it too!).

 

[funkyrxman]

I don't think I can risk it. I think I have 2 options to run the mp60's. I've heard that if you use an altered spacer mount (thinner than the thinnest one provided) you can get away with 1 and 1/4 inch acrylic. If I can get that to work on one end, I'll make access to the other side of the tank which currently abuts a wall flush. I'd have to go through a built in bookcase and 4 inches of "wall" to gain access. Sounds less stressful than routering the tank. I once hit myself in the head with a tire iron trying to change a tire, so I shan't be exploring the router option.
If that won't work, I'll have to try to get boxes in the overflow for the motor side.

 

[funkyrxman]

Anybody ever used a sander to do this? Seems safer and physically possible, right? Floundering for a solution. I read a post by boobookitty on here somewhere, and he floated that possibility when approaching the same issue. I don't know how he solved it. Anybody using the new qd mp60's on 1.25 inch acrylic successfully?