Anyone have cure ich in reef?!
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Brian Kim
Color My Reef
You will have to remove them and treat them in a separate hospital tank if you have corals or inverts in your tank.
There are products/medications that claim to cure ich and are reef safe but I've never tried them, many hobbyists will tell you that they do not work.
Some people will tell you that garlic, ginger, snake oil, etc works...but there are no proof or scientific evidences backing them up.
There are products/medications that claim to cure ich and are reef safe but I've never tried them, many hobbyists will tell you that they do not work.
Some people will tell you that garlic, ginger, snake oil, etc works...but there are no proof or scientific evidences backing them up.
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I had whitespot about 6 weeks ago, affected vampire and regal tang,and treated with polyp lab medic.
Had a bottle on standby and reared treated from day 1 of outbreak and increased feeding from 2 to 3 times per day.
10 days later cleared up, fish looked plump and all ok.
I might have just got lucky but I do believe treating from day 1 and increasing feed helped.
I am sure QT is more effective but I have a rock wall with lots of hiding places so would need to dismantle rock or be very lucky to catch fish and I am sure this would add to their stress so I would not tfr to another tank. Not saying it is wrong just my circumstances.
Paul
Had a bottle on standby and reared treated from day 1 of outbreak and increased feeding from 2 to 3 times per day.
10 days later cleared up, fish looked plump and all ok.
I might have just got lucky but I do believe treating from day 1 and increasing feed helped.
I am sure QT is more effective but I have a rock wall with lots of hiding places so would need to dismantle rock or be very lucky to catch fish and I am sure this would add to their stress so I would not tfr to another tank. Not saying it is wrong just my circumstances.
Paul
HeadStrongGrafx
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Polylab medic
Jlobes
5000 Club Member
wait, didnt you just recommend "ginger slices" in the tank to cure ich, to another member on here!?!?
If I recall correctly, you said, "just use ginger slices...works for me!" however, judging by this thread...it doesnt work for you. So, why are you spreading this misinfo to other reefers??
Now, for an answer to your age-old question, NO...its not possible to rid/eradicate/cure ich, in a reef tank, with any sort of in tank treatment. You will need to remove the fish and put in QT/HT for treatment, you decide which treatment works for you(i have heard ginger works great). I would suggest you look into TTM and copper treatment for you currently infected inhabitants.
If I recall correctly, you said, "just use ginger slices...works for me!" however, judging by this thread...it doesnt work for you. So, why are you spreading this misinfo to other reefers??
Now, for an answer to your age-old question, NO...its not possible to rid/eradicate/cure ich, in a reef tank, with any sort of in tank treatment. You will need to remove the fish and put in QT/HT for treatment, you decide which treatment works for you(i have heard ginger works great). I would suggest you look into TTM and copper treatment for you currently infected inhabitants.
Can you explain why, as would like to know more?
Jlobes
5000 Club Member
explain what?
im sure the answers you seek are available. have you tried the search bar in the upper righthand corner
Breakthecycle2
2500 Club Member
The ICH is still in your tank and it either A. the fish become "immune" or B., the parasite fell off and is reproducing in your substrate and will reappear within 72 days.
DanConnor
Valuable Member
Anybody who can treat ich in a reef could become a millionaire pretty quickly!
To cure it you have to move all your fish to quarantine, treat them there with appropriate medications and let the tank stay fishless for whatever the recommended length of time is. I forget but think maybe its around 60 days.
Of course, it is also possible for fat healthy fish in excellent conditions to do fine with ich in the tank, as in the wild. Preferable to keep it out if possible.
To cure it you have to move all your fish to quarantine, treat them there with appropriate medications and let the tank stay fishless for whatever the recommended length of time is. I forget but think maybe its around 60 days.
Of course, it is also possible for fat healthy fish in excellent conditions to do fine with ich in the tank, as in the wild. Preferable to keep it out if possible.
Simply put, the things that will _kill_ (not "suppress") ich will also kill your reef.
Ich is one of the most frequently discussed topics here and on other reefing forums, and the answers (unlike the ones sought by Fox Mulder...) are indeed out there. If you want to _get_rid_of_ Cryptocaryon (saltwater "ich"), set up a QT/HT, remove all of your fish from your display, and either use TTM (Tank Transfer Method, outlined in great detail elsewhere on this forum; the search bar is your friend here...) or medication that actually works, or hypo ... but it won't happen on your reef.
~Bruce, who has grown tired of keeping ich as a pet and feeding it fish, and wants his ich gone - and so all of his fish are out of his DT, and under a copper regimen...
Ich is one of the most frequently discussed topics here and on other reefing forums, and the answers (unlike the ones sought by Fox Mulder...) are indeed out there. If you want to _get_rid_of_ Cryptocaryon (saltwater "ich"), set up a QT/HT, remove all of your fish from your display, and either use TTM (Tank Transfer Method, outlined in great detail elsewhere on this forum; the search bar is your friend here...) or medication that actually works, or hypo ... but it won't happen on your reef.
~Bruce, who has grown tired of keeping ich as a pet and feeding it fish, and wants his ich gone - and so all of his fish are out of his DT, and under a copper regimen...
srad750c
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I have never seen it totally eradicated. Even with removing fish from tank. I have noticed that based up the health of you fish and tank they get over it. I haven't had heat in my house for the past 4 days. My tank got down to 71.5 from 76.5 in a matter of 48 hrs. Saw a few spots on my coral beauty and yellow tang, none on clowns or yellowtail damsels
. After tank got back to regular temp, it went away. Has happened three times this winter due to hard to diagnose HVAC problem. Fish have always bounced back with no ill effects. It's like the common cold I suspect, always there waiting for you fish to get weak enough to overtake them. At least that my experience over the years. I have lost very few fish to this in the past 20+ years. If you have a fish that seem to shake it catch, QT and treat. It comes to your tank through new fish, and corals. If you can QT your stuff for at least 30 days. I'm no expert but works for me.
. After tank got back to regular temp, it went away. Has happened three times this winter due to hard to diagnose HVAC problem. Fish have always bounced back with no ill effects. It's like the common cold I suspect, always there waiting for you fish to get weak enough to overtake them. At least that my experience over the years. I have lost very few fish to this in the past 20+ years. If you have a fish that seem to shake it catch, QT and treat. It comes to your tank through new fish, and corals. If you can QT your stuff for at least 30 days. I'm no expert but works for me.
dacianb
Active Member
I always had ich in my tanks. I buy fishes with ich and put them in tank without quarantine. Never lost a fish (other than couple of jumpers and a copperband who refused to eat 
).
I came from a different school (Europe). When I see ich signs in tank I am looking further - to the stress factor which cause fish immunity to go low and allow ich to manifest.
Last signs were at end november when I added a new fish which created some stress in tank. Since then none.
Great water conditions, good stocking (no stress, no fights), good quality food and as various possible (I dont offer same type of food at intervals of 2-3 weeks - I have dozens of tiny boxes of various food, all frozen types I can find and so on) and no issues.
Even in a new and sterile tank ich can be introduced on live rock, snails (water inside their shells can have ich eggs), on corals, etc - basically either will quarantine EVERYTHING (except techniques, of course as long as are new) for 75 days or nothing .
I dont have at all quarantine tank and I am keeping sw since quite some years already.
With corals, another story - dip, dip and dip - happy corals are not immune to parasites
). I came from a different school (Europe). When I see ich signs in tank I am looking further - to the stress factor which cause fish immunity to go low and allow ich to manifest.
Last signs were at end november when I added a new fish which created some stress in tank. Since then none.
Great water conditions, good stocking (no stress, no fights), good quality food and as various possible (I dont offer same type of food at intervals of 2-3 weeks - I have dozens of tiny boxes of various food, all frozen types I can find and so on) and no issues.
Even in a new and sterile tank ich can be introduced on live rock, snails (water inside their shells can have ich eggs), on corals, etc - basically either will quarantine EVERYTHING (except techniques, of course as long as are new) for 75 days or nothing .
I dont have at all quarantine tank and I am keeping sw since quite some years already.
With corals, another story - dip, dip and dip - happy corals are not immune to parasites
Thank you all, the last few posts have answered the question as it has basically subsided but not gone and depending on the environment of the tank, immune system of fish, stress etc could come back at anytime.
I will continue as planned with no new fish for 72 days, keep them well fed and see if I have a further outbreak and have a bottle of PLM on standby.
Many thanks
Paul
I will continue as planned with no new fish for 72 days, keep them well fed and see if I have a further outbreak and have a bottle of PLM on standby.
Many thanks
Paul
When I bought my set up (complete fish, coral the works) the move was an obvious stress to everything. In turn every single fish ended up with ich. I was told to try Dr.Gs medicated food by my very knowledgeable LFS (aquatic art in Co.). I did weekly to biweekly 50% water changes and solely fed Dr.Gs. After roughly 2 months all signs of ich were gone. I did lose a yellow eye kole tang and pipe fish after a few weeks but the other 8 fish all pulled through and I haven't seen anything since. I've added fish without QTing them months ago (stupid I know) and no problems to this day. I think a combo between the food and over the top water changes knocked it out IMO. Give it a try--cant hurt. Is the ich still present in the system maybe probably who knows.?.? I do know my fish are fat, happy and show no signs of any illness.
@blackgrouper79. That is all you can do is keep them fat and monitor and even if you do QT you reduce the risk but not eradicate it totally as can easily remain dormant or reintroduced. However it does appear that some fish are more susceptible to it than others ie tangs.
The more I dig into it the more common this appears to be and I am sure lots of other reefers get it but don't update there tank journals.
Happy reefing!!!!
The more I dig into it the more common this appears to be and I am sure lots of other reefers get it but don't update there tank journals.
Happy reefing!!!!
