anyone successfully beat bryopsis?

dictionaaron · Apr 19, 2012

Two part question...
One: anyone successfully beat bryopsis? i got some in on a frag a long time ago and it spread before i knew what it was, i knocked it back to the point i thought i beat it with the tech m method.. but after enough water changes i am once again getting spots. I use putty and super glue and cover them as i see them but somehow i still keep finding them. Is it a lost cause. I hate to keep the tech m in there because my montiporas suffer.... any advice.

Two: do i have enough light to grow acroporas in the upper portion of my tank. Here is my build thread for reference to my setup. Where does one go to get stuff around here now that CRA is closed...
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/north-alabama-reef-club/79074-new-narc-new-tank-thread-sort.html

Tomoko Schum · Apr 20, 2012

No advice to your part 1 question.

I heard that Tech M is effective if you take the level up to 1600 to 1800 ppm range. When I inadvertently got my 15 gallon infested with bryopsis a few years ago, I tried Tech M and also the 8 to 1 mix of Mgcl and epsom salt and raised the Mg level to the range in vain. I did it too fast with Tech M and lost a pink veriagated sea urchin, which would have eaten the stuff if I did not kill it. Bryopsis survived the ordeal. When I tried Magnesium chloride and epsom salt mixture, I was too impatient after not seeing the desired result in a week or so, and took out all my rocks and nuked them. That worked and I am bryopsis free. I had a very well established sand bed and a big fuge on the 15 and nuking the rocks did not cause any havoc afterward that I could see. I admit that it is very drastic and I don't recommend the method to just anybody.

As for the part 2 question, I cannot really tell if your LED lighting system can support acropora, but you can try out a small frag and see what happens. Your tank is rather young. Acropora does better in a mature system. However, if your monti is growing well, you might give some sturdy acros, such as Bali Slimer, a try. I happen to have a huge acropora colony that I want to get rid of. You are welcome to a few frags of it (at no charge) if you want to conduct an experiment. It's a nice blue tip acro that came from EvilMel of ETRC. Under the right condition it grows purplish-blue tips on whitish body. It's just too big and therefore relegated at the moment to a corner of my 180 where it looks kinda mediocre. (If anyone wants a frag of it, PM me. It's free.)

For places to get stuff... I order things from Bulk Reef Supply and other online shops nowadays. Mike_Dani may still sell some reef related stuff.

CJO · Apr 20, 2012

If it's true brioposis, the Tech M should work. I did it on my tank about a year ago and haven't had any back.

It's hard to know about the LEDs without knowing more specifics. It looks like you have a combination of a commercial unit using lower-powered LEDs, combined with some DIY higher-powered LEDs thrown in. Just based on pictures, I would think that you have enough light, but you would need a PAR meter to know for sure.

CJ

myzislow · Apr 20, 2012

That stuff is nasty and tough to beat!! The only thing that did it for me was Tech-M. In my new setup I had little patches sprout up from my previous setup and I nuked it fast and have been byropsis free since. If only it worked for bubble algae!

gmoney243 · Apr 20, 2012

Use of an algae turf scrubber would get rid of it.

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beaslbob · Apr 20, 2012

gmoney243 said:
Use of an algae turf scrubber would get rid of it.

Sent from my Vortex using Tapatalk 2

that should work along with killing the lights in the display to kill it off. Then adjusting lighting and feeding to where corals, corraline algae thrive but the uglies don't come back. Actually that should work with a refugium full of macros as well.

my .02

dictionaaron · Apr 23, 2012

thanks for the answers, according to all my research its pretty impossible to starve it out, i have a bunch of chaeto in my sump that seems to help. When i asked about where to get stuff i meant corals, i had have a very anemic collection now and ive been burnt over the internet .... ie bryopsis. thanks for all the help

_sludgefactory · Apr 23, 2012

I did the mag thing also and that seemed to help, plus chaeto, scrub it off pumps and any surfaces you can, pick it off of places you can scrub. Lastly lighting could new an issue, i never really had any and then it started growing and ending up in more and more places. Replaced my old cfl bulb in my fuge and it all started clearing up fairly quickly. Replaced my hqi bulb shortly after and now it's all gone except for in my over flow weir.

Tank thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81000

LG P999 EaglesBlood 2.8, Trinity ELPmax

Tomoko Schum · Apr 24, 2012

Mine was sure impossible to kill with the normal methods. I had my large refugium on 15G filled with Chaetomorpha and I also killed the light on display while I tried Tech M, but the bryopsis was as green as can be after two weeks.

As for getting corals locally, there are a number of us in the area who have frags to sell. H@rry and Mike_dani are in Huntsville. Jason and Tammy and Manuel are in Cullman. There is Aquarium Fantacy in Birmingham. I have a few frags for sale as well.

Kruzzzer · May 3, 2012

Bad case of Bryopsis on rocks, I used a 50/50 mix of H202 3%(Hydrogen Peroxide) and tank water and dipped everything I could that had bryopsis and a bit of Dino's. Took a bit of a chance and dunked some zoes and to my surprise the zoes were smiling big after 10 mins back in the tank. This works great but I do advise caution on tank dosing. I did some tank dosing on rocks to big to take out I used 10ml per 10 Gallons of water every day for 3 days all dino and Hair alge died off and has not come back. Coraline was not affected nor was my corals all types in my 75 with 20 gallons of Ref/Sump.