Anyone successfully glued mushrooms?
- Thread starter Robert Binz
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Hi all, You have all been so nice, I am going to make you Mushroom Whisperers. Here are some details left out.
Yes, the pins are not stainless. They are common Drawing Pins. They have several features that are handy when using. Throw them away after use. Even after several weeks the Pins look fine.
1. The Colored Ball will keep you from losing them or sticking yourself on a lost pin. Easy to see.
2. The Ball is for rotating the pin before pulling it out. Don't rock the pin, roll the Ball back and forth.
3. If possible always use a finger to gently hole the Frag down while pulling the Pin. The new hold will be weak. That is why the Pin Rotation is needed.
How Mushrooms / Ricordea react to wrangling. Ricordea are the more complex and adding Mouths is a Pin Job. Mushrooms have the same constraints. The Foot and the Mantle are the key to control.
1. Any pin through the Mantle will hold the Ricordea in place. But, if the Pin is on the outer edge of the Mantle, the Ricordea will Cold Flow away from the Pin ( the Pin stays in place and the tissue flows around it and closes behind). In order to draw away and pull the Pin through the Mantle Tissue, it has to anchor for traction. This technique does not leave any mark.
2. A Pin through the Mantle and Foot will hold it fast. I use this method to make extra Mouths or replace a missing Mouth. The Ricordea shown in the Tank has 3 mouths. It was badly torn and needed a number of Pins. The new mouths are the contrasting color of the original Mouth. This method can be used to make another Mouth and then viciously slice the now dual Ricordea into two Ricordea. ( no Happy Face Ricordea or no more tips :>) )
3. Never poke a Mouth, it can die and leave the Ricordea looking like a Mushroom. One had a permanent Hole, like a donut.
4. When Pinning Polyps only Pin the Edge of the Foot. Never Puncture the Tube.
Just remember: To a man with a hammer, everything looks like a nail...Happy Poking
Yes, the pins are not stainless. They are common Drawing Pins. They have several features that are handy when using. Throw them away after use. Even after several weeks the Pins look fine.
1. The Colored Ball will keep you from losing them or sticking yourself on a lost pin. Easy to see.
2. The Ball is for rotating the pin before pulling it out. Don't rock the pin, roll the Ball back and forth.
3. If possible always use a finger to gently hole the Frag down while pulling the Pin. The new hold will be weak. That is why the Pin Rotation is needed.
How Mushrooms / Ricordea react to wrangling. Ricordea are the more complex and adding Mouths is a Pin Job. Mushrooms have the same constraints. The Foot and the Mantle are the key to control.
1. Any pin through the Mantle will hold the Ricordea in place. But, if the Pin is on the outer edge of the Mantle, the Ricordea will Cold Flow away from the Pin ( the Pin stays in place and the tissue flows around it and closes behind). In order to draw away and pull the Pin through the Mantle Tissue, it has to anchor for traction. This technique does not leave any mark.
2. A Pin through the Mantle and Foot will hold it fast. I use this method to make extra Mouths or replace a missing Mouth. The Ricordea shown in the Tank has 3 mouths. It was badly torn and needed a number of Pins. The new mouths are the contrasting color of the original Mouth. This method can be used to make another Mouth and then viciously slice the now dual Ricordea into two Ricordea. ( no Happy Face Ricordea or no more tips :>) )
3. Never poke a Mouth, it can die and leave the Ricordea looking like a Mushroom. One had a permanent Hole, like a donut.
4. When Pinning Polyps only Pin the Edge of the Foot. Never Puncture the Tube.
Just remember: To a man with a hammer, everything looks like a nail...Happy Poking
justmee
Active Member
This is what I've done with mushrooms, using a tooth pick, poke it through the stem of the mushroom and attach it to a frag plug with rubber band until the mushroom attaches to the plug, then remove the tooth pick from the mushroom. Some mushrooms are hard because their stems are small. Goodluck.
I though of using a wood stick or a bamboo to poke. The pin is quicker and it may be that the metal irritates ( stimulates, think pearl ) the wound. You sound like you might like my Different Tank Build. It is a Filter System based on the Marine Ponds here. We have No Nitrates in 750 gallons of outdoor ponds. It is not accidental. If you read my Different Tank Build, it will definitely get a response. I need some dedicated Reefers to run duplicate Systems. They will be sent free. This system produces Hard Coral Water for a cost around $60 ( all off shelf repurposed Fresh Water Foam Units ). It has an Anaerobic Core and an aerobic Core and a built in Protein Skimmer. It is all in Tank and runs on one Air Pump. It is a total blow mind that it works. The Aerobic Core is orders of magnitude faster than Stone Diffusion. The Tank had Frags in 6 days. I almost poisoned the Tank with Cuttle Bone Frag plates ( 98 % aragonite 2 5% protein ) too bad they were not done rotting inside. Great looking Frags ( pictures on thread ) but even the Super Nitrate Destroyer Filter had problems dealing with 3 days of rotting Frag Plates ( 3 ppm Ammonia ). This new Filter Configuration is a Game Changer in Nitrate Management. The System is to showcase total Nitrate Destruction. Not once during the Ammonia Crisis did the Nitrate rise above zero. Reading the Threads will be interesting if nothing else. It is the most unique system that I have ever seen. My Marine Ponds are full of breeding Dwarf Seahorses and breeding Lettuce Nudibranch. Here 6 seahorses become 60 in 6 months. My Ponies have never seen a Brine Shrimp in generations. They get all their food from hunting. There are over 100 living a natural life in refugium corrals. Their cleanup crew are Lettuce Nudibranch that reproduce naturally. Other Marine Ponds have populations of Pencil Urchins or Brittle Stars. My goal is to Breed all the creatures in my tiny oceans and give them away to other Keepers that they may be saved from extinction. Please help test the system if possible. The form is a Larval Breeder without any Larval Dangers. Perhaps you can breed the Peppermint Shrimp.
I had the same idea and I am a newbie! LOL. Hasnt worked yet though. I have a teeny weeny discosoma. I just left the lid off and put a few pieces of rubble and a frag plug. He is still basically in the same spot! Been about 5 days I guess. My neon kenya that I piad 69 bucks for, feel of the frag plug, another teeny weenie frag but it was being held by a splint or something and when i cleaned the tank that day it feel off and disappeared!
There is a Thread about the style of tank used here at the Marine Ponds. A miniature version of the Marine Water System here was cycled from dry tank to Reef Tank in 6 days ( yes 6 days ) It is a Different Tank Build ( Henn ) in Member Tanks. The System has never before been disclosed. I am about to send out 5 complete Marine Systems to fellow Reef2Reef Members ( you may keep it forever with the hope that the Tank is shared with Reef2Reef and you must supply A Tank ). This is just to get inputs from people doing different things ( If you use it as a Peppermint Shrimp Breeder you will make lots of people happy ). We Breed Dwarf Seahorses here in outside Marine Ponds. They live completely natural lives and have never seen Artemis. This System can be thought of as a Septic System with dedicated anaerobic and aerobic treatment. The Coral Gravel in the Tank will not be finished for another 3 weeks. It was never needed. Please follow the Different Tank Build. I hope you decide to help promote a System that makes current Nitrate handling look like an Outhouse compared to a modern Septic System. The Picture of the System on the Wall says it all. That is it. All in Tank. No Pumps. It can be used in another Tank. They can be built from OTS parts and Shade Cloth. If your Tank starts having Ammonia, Nitrite, or Nitrate issues, Make a Unit and drop it in. It has no effect on an existing Systems.
