Anyone use "hardboard" for canopy?

[Marcom12]

I'm trying to find a nice smooth material to skin my canopy... The 1/4 inch thick "handi-panels" plywood keep praying when I cut them...

 

[Marcom12]

I'd definitely paint all sides and edges to seal it.... Just do not know if that's good enough

Or maybe MFD?

 

[skipm]

I have used both hardwoods and hardwood plywood on stands/canopies, just make sure to seal them well with at minimum 2 coats of poly. If you are referring to MDF (medium density fiberboard) then I would vote against it, I don't think you could seal it up well enough for the damp environment, the same goes for softwood plywood like luan.

 

[Marcom12]

I'm talking about hardboard... Not hardwood.... Like pegboard material without the peg holes

 

[mrpizzaface]

I'm talking about hardboard... Not hardwood.... Like pegboard material without the peg holes

Even with painting both sides and the edges, the masonite will want to warp from the moisture and heat. Do you have a photo of the canopy framed out?

 

[Flippers4pups]

I'm talking about hardboard... Not hardwood.... Like pegboard material without the peg holes

It will most likely degrade in time.

 

[Flippers4pups]

If your cutting finish grade plywood, using a circular saw, use a finish cut blade and set the depth of the blade just deep enough to just cut the thickness of the plywood.

 

[Marcom12]

If your cutting finish grade plywood, using a circular saw, use a finish cut blade and set the depth of the blade just deep enough to just cut the thickness of the plywood.

I was using a jigsaw... Because I'm cutting out the opening

 

[Marcom12]

It's just skinning the frame and going to put hinged doors over it

 

[mrpizzaface]

It's just skinning the frame and going to put hinged doors over it

It is difficult for me to see what is going on in this picture.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Using a jig saw can be tough, but even with one using a fine tooth blade will help.

Splintering along the edge is always going to happen to some degree. Use some wood filler to fill in the damaged areas and sand smooth. Should be unnoticeable once finished.

 

[Peace River]

I was using a jigsaw... Because I'm cutting out the opening

I don’t recommend hardboard or MDF because they won’t hold up over time to the damp conditions (evaporation, splashing, micro spray, etc.). If you are going to cut plywood with a jigsaw then make sure that you have a new blade for plywood (usually means more teeth, such as 20 teeth per inch) and try your cut on a scrap piece first to see if you are still getting tear-outs (e.g., what you showed in your picture). You can try just adding blue painters tape on your cut line and this will likely improve it but it may not be perfect. An even better option is to add a “zero clearance shoe” to the base of your jigsaw (search the web or YouTube for more info on that approach). Good luck!

 

[skipm]

I'm talking about hardboard... Not hardwood.... Like pegboard material without the peg holes

The stuff you are talking about is MDF, I don't think you can seal it good enough to last.

 

[Peace River]

The stuff you are talking about is MDF, I don't think you can seal it good enough to last.

Skipm, you’re right, neither will seal well.

HDF = Hardboard = high density fiber board (Masonite is a type of HDF)
MDF = medium density fiber board

 

[siggy]

1. Use a aluminum straight edge (big Ruler or framing square) and score the ply(deep) with a razor knife and then saw cutting just to the side of that score line will minimize tear-out, also use masking tape.
2. place a sacrificial piece of wood on top of line with clamps then cut, the tear out will occur on the scrap piece, you have to sandwich well, I will use wood screws then fill the holes

 

[Marcom12]

Is there no good thing (1/4) material that doesn't need so much prep?

 

[skipm]

You can get hardwood plywoods in 1/4",for a really nice finish there is oak or birch plywood and needing a bit of work for a great finish there is pine plywood. Do you plan on painting or staining? The pine would be cheaper than the others for a painted finish. Just keep in mind with all plywood products that sealing the edges is very important.

 

[BornHandy]

Yes, but it is spendy. Go to a local sign shop and ask them if they will order you a sheet of something called polymetal. It is a plastic core with an aluminum skin. It's available in lots of colors, and takes paint well if you want to paint it. You can get it in 1/4" or 1'8". It cuts easily with a router or a saw, and is rated for outdoor use.

If that doesn't work, they should also be able to get you PVC sheets (paylight is the most common brand) - white or colored as well. It is also easy to work with, but is NOT rated for outdoor use. It tends to want to warp a little with time. If you have a frame to connect it to, it should do just fine.

 

[Marcom12]

You can get hardwood plywoods in 1/4",for a really nice finish there is oak or birch plywood and needing a bit of work for a great finish there is pine plywood. Do you plan on painting or staining? The pine would be cheaper than the others for a painted finish. Just keep in mind with all plywood products that sealing the edges is very important.

Id be painting it. The issue in having is getting clean cuts. And I appreciate all input so far, I was just hoping for a more simple solution lol seems there isn't one.

 

[CudaScott]

As already mentioned above use a straight edge mark with a pencil and cut along straight edge with a utility knife and use firm pressure when doing it. It will eliminate the chip out I done it for a few years in a door shop I worked in back in high school.