Anyone use ich X?

[Is this the LFS]

Ich X is made by hikari and it worked for my freshwater. My angel and puffer have ich and I was going to do ttm but I decided I will try this first because it is less stressful. Anyone use this and if so how long should I be treating them with it?

 

[Gareth elliott]

I have never heard of a case of marine ich cured with this product.

 

[Han]

I tried it and didn’t see any results.

 

[Is this the LFS]

I have never heard of a case of marine ich cured with this product.

So are you saying it only works with freshwater? If I did the tank transfer, could I do two 5 gallon buckets with a 2 inch angel and puffer in it?

 

[ihavecrabs]

So are you saying it only works with freshwater? If I did the tank transfer, could I do two 5 gallon buckets with a 2 inch angel and puffer in it?

If you could, do 10g minimum (assuming your puffer is eating and of any significant size due to how messy they are). I’d also recommend incorporating an air stone (which tubing and stone will need to be replaced between transfers) to help with O2 consumption. Will you be running a power filter at all?

 

[Big G]

Ich X is made by hikari and it worked for my freshwater. My angel and puffer have ich and I was going to do ttm but I decided I will try this first because it is less stressful. Anyone use this and if so how long should I be treating them with it?

This one from Hikari works well. It has formalin in addition to malachite green found in Ich X.

 

[Halal Hotdog]

Freshwater ich is NOT the same parasite as marine ich. The proven methods have been copper, CP, or TTM. I personally don't care for TTM as there is a lot of room for failure, and you have to be sure you have cryptocaryon irritans and not something else. It is ineffective for other parasites.

 

[sharpimage]

Freshwater ich is NOT the same parasite as marine ich. The proven methods have been copper, CP, or TTM. I personally don't care for TTM as there is a lot of room for failure, and you have to be sure you have cryptocaryon irritans and not something else. It is ineffective for other parasites.

This is correct. But I prefer TTM. Copper and CP scare me. Mostly because I have never done it.

 

[Ling_Thing]

This is correct. But I prefer TTM. Copper and CP scare me. Mostly because I have never done it.

Don’t be scared just learn and educate yourself on it and you’ll feel more comfortable. Every single fish I get goes through 30 days of copper minimum regardless. I trust no one except the copper that’s guaranteed to kill these parasites. I personally can not risk adding any parasites to my DT, QT is the pinnacle of success in this hobby imo.

 

[sharpimage]

Don’t be scared just learn and educate yourself on it and you’ll feel more comfortable. Every single fish I get goes through 30 days of copper minimum regardless. I trust no one except the copper that’s guaranteed to kill these parasites. I personally can not risk adding any parasites to my DT, QT is the pinnacle of success in this hobby imo.

Thank you, not to derail this topic, but I do a full quarantine and observation. I also bought all my fish in batches so I do not have to do it often. At this point I am fully stocked out and have no plans to add any new fish.

 

[Halal Hotdog]

This is correct. But I prefer TTM. Copper and CP scare me. Mostly because I have never done it.

Knowledge is indeed power, I would definitely recommend reading up on them. As you have noticed with observational QT, things can definitely get past it. TTM IMO is a lot more work and worry than the other ones. If you are setup for TTM, then copper or CP will seem like a walk in the park.

 

[Is this the LFS]

Knowledge is indeed power, I would definitely recommend reading up on them. As you have noticed with observational QT, things can definitely get past it. TTM IMO is a lot more work and worry than the other ones. If you are setup for TTM, then copper or CP will seem like a walk in the park.

I have decided to do ttm using five gallon buckets. I have a puffer and angel so copper is not the best for either. And I don’t know what cp is. Ttm also seems like it is the most foolproof for someone who is new to quarantine such as me

 

[Big G]

CP is Chloroquine-phosphate. To get pharmacy grade CP, you have to get a prescription from a vet.

Chloroquine phosphate

Chloroquine Phosphate *** The information contained here is subject to changes as I experiment and learn more about Chloroquine Phosphate *** What It Treats – Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum), Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum. How To...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Is this the LFS]

CP is Chloroquine-phosphate. To get pharmacy grade CP, you have to get a prescription from a vet.

Chloroquine phosphate

Chloroquine Phosphate *** The information contained here is subject to changes as I experiment and learn more about Chloroquine Phosphate *** What It Treats – Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum), Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum. How To...

www.reef2reef.com

Ya not gonna do that. Because they are only in there for the tank transfer method, do you think the five gallon buckets are ok for the puffer and angel?

 

[Halal Hotdog]

I have decided to do ttm using five gallon buckets. I have a puffer and angel so copper is not the best for either. And I don’t know what cp is. Ttm also seems like it is the most foolproof for someone who is new to quarantine such as me

TTM is technique sensitive, if you are off even a little on the day the fish needs to be moved then it will not work. If fish carries parasite or cyst during the final transfer then it will not work. With TTM you are using the lifecycle of cryptocaryon irritans and moving the fish as the parasite falls off to reproduce. Far from full proof. It can be done successfully, but can easily fail. My biggest gripe is you have to be 100% sure it is cryptocaryon irritans and not something else, and not a combination of parasites.

To answer your question, I’ve never tried to do TTM with buckets, but others have with success.

I have done TTM in combination with hypo with success, but it was more luck than anything. Way too much work for me to try again.

Either way, I wish you luck and hope the fish recover,

 

[Is this the LFS]

TTM is technique sensitive, if you are off even a little on the day the fish needs to be moved then it will not work. If fish carries parasite or cyst during the final transfer then it will not work. With TTM you are using the lifecycle of cryptocaryon irritans and moving the fish as the parasite falls off to reproduce. Far from full proof. It can be done successfully, but can easily fail. My biggest gripe is you have to be 100% sure it is cryptocaryon irritans and not something else, and not a combination of parasites.

To answer your question, I’ve never tried to do TTM with buckets, but others have with success.

I have done TTM in combination with hypo with success, but it was more luck than anything. Way too much work for me to try again.

Either way, I wish you luck and hope the fish recover,

What do you mean by off? Do you mean like a day late, or a hour late?

 

[bluprntguy]

TTM is the most technique sensitive treatment

Copper is a poison that requires a very narrow concentration to kill the parasite but not kill the fish. It requires constant monitoring of the dose to insure it is effective. Seems way more “technique sensitive“ than moving a fish from one bucket to another.

if you are off even a little on the day the fish needs to be moved then it will not work.

This is simply not true. As you yourself noted, TTM breaks the lifecycle of the parasite. The salinity of the water has absolutely nothing to do with it. You should try to match salinity as close as possible to make it easier on the fish, but a slightly different salinity will not cause the TTM to “not work”. Perhaps you are confusing TTM with hyposalinity.

It can be done successfully, but can easily fail.

I have no idea why you think it can easily fail. If you have two buckets/aquariums, two heaters, and two filters, it’s actually pretty hard to fail at TTM as you can let them dry out between transfers. There is already redundancy built into the method.

 

[Halal Hotdog]

When I was looking into TTM 72 hours was the rule, never more. Could do less but more transfers were required. If you do longer than it could fail. If reusing same equipment then everything needs to be meticulously sterilized in between transfers, otherwise you could reinfect the fish. Multiple transfers necessary. Long observation period afterwards to assure something else isn’t infecting the fish. This equates to technique sensitive in my book.


@bluprntguy “if you are off even a little on the day the fish needs to be moved then it will not work”.

This is simply not true. As you yourself noted, TTM breaks the lifecycle of the parasite. The salinity of the water has absolutely nothing to do with it. You should try to match salinity as close as possible to make it easier on the fish, but a slightly different salinity will not cause the TTM to “not work”. Perhaps you are confusing TTM with hyposalinity.

Not sure why you thought this referenced salinity, clearly does not. I was stating if you wait too long to transfer the fish then the process can fail. CP is a far less technique sensitive treatment that treats a broad spectrum of parasites. This is my opinion, if you disagree that is perfectly fine.

 

[Tamberav]

If you have 2-3 sets of everything and set an alarm on your phone when to move them......TTM is pretty easy imo.

Keep it simple with air line and air stones and buy a large bag of 10 of them. Swap to a new stone and line every time. I would not trust something as porous as an air stone to fully dry in 72 hours.

Plastic colonders dry faster than nets...etc..

I put a fan blowing on the set drying out just because I can.

TTM is probably not appropriate for those with busy schedules who may miss the TTM time/date.

 

[Is this the LFS]

If you have 2-3 sets of everything and set an alarm on your phone when to move them......TTM is pretty easy imo.

Keep it simple with air line and air stones and buy a large bag of 10 of them. Swap to a new stone and line every time. I would not trust something as porous as an air stone to fully dry in 72 hours.

Plastic colonders dry faster than nets...etc..

I put a fan blowing on the set drying out just because I can.

TTM is probably not appropriate for those with busy schedules who may miss the TTM time/date.

I just wash my hands, drain the water low, and catch them with my hands. It seems less stressful to them and is easier