AP700 suggestions

Nickyfish

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hello everyone can anyone give some tips on programming a ap700 light on my 120 gallon also running a 48” led strip
 
That’s what I have. Actually just put my second ap700 back on after pulling it on my 180. Also have to 72” reefbrites. Awesome lights for sure. Although I cannot even control my Kessils on my iPhone. My buddy that owns lfs comes over and programs them on his iPad. No app for iPhone. Kinda silly ask me
 
That’s what I have. Actually just put my second ap700 back on after pulling it on my 180. Also have to 72” reefbrites. Awesome lights for sure. Although I cannot even control my Kessils on my iPhone. My buddy that owns lfs comes over and programs them on his iPad. No app for iPhone. Kinda silly ask me

Really? I have two AP700's and I can program, store and backup everything all from my iPhone. All through the iOS app.
To the OP, just create a simple program from one of the templates in the app. I have a 12hr cycle, 3hr ramp up, hold peak for 6hrs, then ramp down for 3hrs. The color starts at the bluest setting then goes to the 3rd or 4th blue setting, then back down again, following the ramp times.
Start off at 0% Intensity, then 5 minutes later, add a point with 1% Intensity, then ramp to your peak, then back down to 1%, 5 minutes later 0%.

8:00am - 0% bluest
8:05am - 1% bluest
11:00am - 30% (pick your own intensity) 3rd blue
2:00pm - 32% 4th blue
5:00pm - 30% 3rd blue
8:00pm - 1% bluest
8:05pm - 0% bluest

This is just an example of my settings (intensity is different, percentages are just an example). I like to add a point in the middle of the cycle, this allows me to increase intensity in smaller percentages, instead of raising the intensity for the whole 6hrs of peak. I can raise the middle 2%, wait a week or two, then raise the 11:00am and 5pm by 2%.
I don't add any red or green, but I may add a little at some point?
I recently added the slight diffusers, which helps to eliminate any hot spots. I have a shallow tank, so I'm not worried about par loss.
 
I have 2 over my 120 too. The app for iPhone works fairly well. I would connect straight to the fixture and not through wifi, just didn’t work well for me through wifi. The spread on these fixtures is great so you don’t generally have to raise them up too much like the radions. Par spread is much softer and widespread than focused downward. I keep mine at 8” or 7”. The preset programs in the iOS app can be modified so you can have whatever program you want. The only thing I would say is to increase intensity slowly and start around 30% and see how it goes. I have sps dominant tank and I’m sitting at 87% at 3rd blue from bottom of wheel for 6 hours and ramp up/down for 2 hours or something. Can’t remember exactly. I never have fiddled with the red/green for very any extended period of time so I cannot comment on those settings. I feel that led has a learning curve with it that t5 and metal halide does not have just because these are such new fixtures. Go slow and you will figure it out.
 
Stick with iphone app if you can, you cant access red/green program with ipad, also if you do use red/green it caps intensity i think at 70%
 
Stick with iphone app if you can, you cant access red/green program with ipad, also if you do use red/green it caps intensity i think at 70%

Not sure on the iPad difference but yes at 70% for max intensity for adding red and green.
 
if you do use red/green it caps intensity i think at 70%

Yeah, I ran into this as well. What's the deal with this? I used to like the way my 40g looked with the red and green turned up, but once I stepped up to the RSR500 (48x24") and had to increase intensity beyond 70% I suddenly lost them purdy reds and greens. I assume it's a thermal dissipation issue, but still, on an $800 light - seems a little lame.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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