realreef7
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Both nitrate test kits were bought new. Ran each test twice and I'm getting 160ppm on the api and 50ppm on the salifert, any idea on the large difference? Anyone else have a similar experience?
api nitrates read 160pmm, salifert reads 50ppm
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Neither test will provide accurater results at high nitrate level. The eye cannot distinguish differences in test color intensity at such high concentrations of NO3. You must dilute the sample with RO/DI to get a reading around 10 ppm where color differences can be detected.
API tests are less expensive but possibly not as accurate at low concentrations as Salifert. Use the API test while nitrate is high and then switch to the more expensive and accurate Salifert when the undiluted nitrate concentration is 10 ppm.
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This is 100% exactly why we dont require nitrate readings in updated cycle science. Use one test ur cycle is fine, proof of endpoint shown. Use the other test on same sample you get zero nitrate, the cycle has certainly stalled the forums would say.
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He didn’t have to, I’m using this thread for cycling examples by linking it to supposed stalled cycle threads where missing nitrate means something ‘stalled’. His stated range ties in nicely. The way we must arrange, calibrate or compare one tube color to another helps new cyclers to understand how inaccurate testing affects todays cycling procedures.
realreef7
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This tank is 3 years old, transitioning from a temperate water (lows 70s) wrasse / angelfish tank to a sps reef. Nitrates has always been 50, recently started vinegar dosing, goal is to get it around 10-25. P04 is .08 via hannah. I do not think my tank is cycling, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites. If these are cheap test kits which test do you guys prefer?
realreef7
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I always used salifert to test nitrates, this time for fun I ordered both api and salifert to see if there was a difference. 160 to 50 is day and night, on the salifert it is clearly at 50, not 100 (highest on the chart). I guess throw the api in the trash?
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nitrite- never at any phase of reefing we dont care about it.
pH-I dont test for it but my home isn't packed with breathers
If you want to test for pH Id pick a digi meter. its equally hard to read pH in a vial like it is free ammonia
free ammonia-never a concern in a mature system if all fish can be accounted for/no mass snail death etc. ruling out death and rot, ammonia can never 'drift' out of spec. not sure we need to own ammonia testers. I dont.
nitrate and phosphate-digital means are avail/hanna so if those are part of your algae prevention kit then use digital means vs color test tube ones
calcium and alk consistency seems to be key not so much name brand. people have been doing fine with calcium and alk tests from api for decades because in the end, consistency works most of the time given feed and lighting decency.
pH-I dont test for it but my home isn't packed with breathers
If you want to test for pH Id pick a digi meter. its equally hard to read pH in a vial like it is free ammonia
free ammonia-never a concern in a mature system if all fish can be accounted for/no mass snail death etc. ruling out death and rot, ammonia can never 'drift' out of spec. not sure we need to own ammonia testers. I dont.
nitrate and phosphate-digital means are avail/hanna so if those are part of your algae prevention kit then use digital means vs color test tube ones
calcium and alk consistency seems to be key not so much name brand. people have been doing fine with calcium and alk tests from api for decades because in the end, consistency works most of the time given feed and lighting decency.
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Randy Holmes-Farley
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FYI, If it were cycling, the presence of nitrite will give artificially high nitrate readings, and how high may vary by kit. 0.1 ppm nitrate may read as 10 ppm nitrate with some kits.
