Aquarium mat settling

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Rob Ax

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Hello
I’ve been hard piping a bigger tank after hairline fracture on old tank bard fitting. Wasn’t able to remove issue without complete tear down. So got whole new stuff. My question is now with an all glass tank and on rims what happens after I’ve hard piped everything and then fill with water how much will the mat compress? Or maybe it’s never an issue. But just wondering because of the hard plumbing. Is this a non issue it would have to settle a little but maybe not enough to worry about. What do you awesome reefers think?
Thanks in advance.
Rob
 
Hi ,would not recommend mat under rimmed tank, just be sure is level ...
Thanks fishguy to 242.

Actually my post when I reread it was a little confusing. I have a new glass bottom tank and I’m switching from a rimed tank and I have thick foam under the new non rimmed tank, mat came with the aquarium supplier and I’ve hard piped in the new tank. I know that the foam will compress some but, I just wonder if it’s significant enough to change the hard plumbing at all when it compress down a certain amount or do you guys worry about that? I’ve always had a rimed tank or Red Sea. thanks.
 
Thanks fishguy to 242.

Actually my post when I reread it was a little confusing. I have a new glass bottom tank and I’m switching from a rimed tank and I have thick foam under the new non rimmed tank, mat came with the aquarium supplier and I’ve hard piped in the new tank. I know that the foam will compress some but, I just wonder if it’s significant enough to change the hard plumbing at all when it compress down a certain amount or do you guys worry about that? I’ve always had a rimed tank or Red Sea. thanks.
very good question.
Anyone know the answer?
 
I would think not enough to matter, but stand must be true level to start with .
 
Of course the stand is level. Thx for the help. Hopefully a few more folks will chime in.
 
Of course the stand is level. Thx for the help. Hopefully a few more folks will chime in.
Most bottom tank issues come directly from a non leveled or warped stand.

What sort of interface material and thickness are you using? Open cell foam vs closed cell vs styrofoam all are different in how much they will settle.
 
“Of course the stand is level. Thx for the help. Hopefully a few more folks will chime in”

lol I haven’t been on a forum in a while my response to fishguy doesn’t read well. I don’t want to come off like a jerk.

I believe it’s closed cell because I needed to cut it down to size. The cells seemed to pop as I cut it. It’s definitely not Styrofoam. Could be 5/8” thick. 70 gallons of salt water 8x70=560 pounds. I’ve strapped it all the pvc. I’m testing for leaks next week and will see what happens. If it does compress I’ll adjust straps. I believe the plumbing can handle some settling but I’ll have to deal with the straps.

Not sure how easy it’ll be getting to straps at tanks permanent location.

Thx it’s gonna be fun.
 
Happy F
“Of course the stand is level. Thx for the help. Hopefully a few more folks will chime in”

lol I haven’t been on a forum in a while my response to fishguy doesn’t read well. I don’t want to come off like a jerk.

I believe it’s closed cell because I needed to cut it down to size. The cells seemed to pop as I cut it. It’s definitely not Styrofoam. Could be 5/8” thick. 70 gallons of salt water 8x70=560 pounds. I’ve strapped it all the pvc. I’m testing for leaks next week and will see what happens. If it does compress I’ll adjust straps. I believe the plumbing can handle some settling but I’ll have to deal with the straps.

Not sure how easy it’ll be getting to straps at tanks permanent location.

Thx it’s gonna be fun.
a Day
 
I can understand your concern with the tank settling ~ 1/8” inch and putting strain on the PVC and bulkheads.

I always have some flex on the return pump so prevent pump vibrations from resonating up the PVC. This allows the pump to sit level on its feet, not weigh on the PVC, and as a byproduct, that will prevent any tension during settling.

As for drains, typically they are not glued into the sump/sump bulkhead (non pressurized plumbing) and thus can settle downward as well.

I do loosen any plumbing straps during filling and retighten once it’s filled/running. Probably overkill.
 
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Haven't done it myself but I would be concerned with settling due to 5/8 of foam. Do you have union's in your design? I would leave one of those joints unglued until the tank is mostly filled and let it settle for a day or so before gluing depending on how much motion your plumbing allows. I have always had at least a short section of flex tubing in previous builds.
 
Thanks for replying. I can reach everything during test fill. I’ll just have it up against wall for final location. Lucky I followed some plumbing advice and didn’t glue drain into sump bulkhead. I also think the return has some tolerance. I’m an electrician and run tons on emt and I don’t allow an 1/8 of tolerance in those runs lol. My strapping is the the spot where I need the movement hopefully there won’t be much. I’m going to loosen the straps and keep a close eye on it.
 
I've not been in this situation I've only used flexible tube, but couldn't you plumb it in 1/4" short and put rubber feet under the pump, or is there a reason the pump needs to be closer to the bottom?
 
Update!! filled completely to test plumbing and foam mat hardly compressed at all. and no leaks
 

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