Aquatec Booster Pump Pressure Switch

[mpoletiek]

So I have a pressure switch setup to auto-shutoff this pump. I have a check valve upstream and downstream of the switch (brand new) and a float valve in the container. When filling the storage container the pump does shut off once full, but after about an hour it turns back on again.

There are no leaks in the container, the water level never changes. I can visibly see the float valve, but I've monitored it long enough to confidently say no extra water is going into the container.

At aquashella Dallas this year I spoke with an aquafx representative that said this is cause by not having check valves upstream or downstream of the switch. However, I DO have it setup this way and the check valves are brand new.

Anyone else run into this problem before? Maybe a faulty switch?

 

[ChampionLighting]

Do you have a solenoid on your RODI?

You only need 1 check valve placed on the product line between the membrane housing and the solenoid.

The shut off switch for the booster pump should be placed inline anywhere after the solenoid and before the float valve.

If everything is connected correctly, the easiest way to diagnose pressure loss is by connecting a pressure gauge inline between the solenoid and float valve and monitor to see if the pressure drops.

 

[mpoletiek]

No solenoid. Probably cheaper to replace the check valves before buying a pressure gauge.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[ChampionLighting]

Buy a solenoid, that will fix your problem.

 

[mpoletiek]

Sorry I must've gotten confused because I mentioned the auto shutoff switch, but I didn't call it a solenoid. Here's a picture.

 

[ChampionLighting]

That's the high pressure switch. You still need a solenoid.

 

[mpoletiek]

Sorry I'm confused. The high pressure switch turns off the booster pump. Would the solenoid just shut off the flow to maintain pressure?

 

[ChampionLighting]

The high pressure switch turns off the booster pump, but there's still water running through the membrane and going out the waste line. If you have chlorinated city water, not only are you wasting water, the chlorine will exhaust the carbon cartridge and eventually burn up the membrane.

There's 4 connections to the solenoid:
From carbon block to intake of membrane housing on one side
From product water on membrane housing (after check valve) to DI cartridge on the other side

When the reservoir is full and the float valve is engaged, pressure builds up on the product water line. This causes the diaphragm inside the solenoid to expand and stop the water supply between the carbon block and the membrane. No water will pass through the membrane, there will be no product water or waste water coming out of the membrane. Now that there's no water pressure in the membrane housing, the check valve will remain closed, it will not leak out any water or cause a pressure drop.

 

[mpoletiek]

Okay. That makes sense. Pretty sure I have one then.

This is the 5stage rodi system from waterbox which looks like a rebrand of an aquafx system.

I've upgraded it with a second 100gph ro membrane, but I was having this issue before then.

I'm going to double check everything and try this again.

 

[mpoletiek]

I also just noticed my pressure was around 70psi so I upped the booster pump to 80psi

 

[mpoletiek]

Appreciate the help by the way!

 

[edd59]

Okay. That makes sense. Pretty sure I have one then.

This is the 5stage rodi system from waterbox which looks like a rebrand of an aquafx system.

I've upgraded it with a second 100gph ro membrane, but I was having this issue before then.

I'm going to double check everything and try this again.

i always referred to it as an auto shut off valve not a solenoid. that looks like an asv in your pic. that pressure switch is what i use on mine, the unit came with asv.

 

[mpoletiek]

So quick update.

It's working. No clue why. Maybe wiggling the tubes around and making sure the seals were good did the trick.

Thanks again for the help.