AquaUV size needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mechano
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

Mechano

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Messages
381
Reaction score
289
Location
London
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So I am battling ostreopsis and currently have a 250g total system.

I figured it’s time to purchase a better UV light than what I have at present.

Question is IF money wasn’t an issue, what size of UV would u run on this size system?
I don’t wanna cheap out on this but also don’t wanna be destroying all the planktonic food sources in my system.

Would I be correct in purchasing the AquaUV 57W or 80W or 114W? Anyone with experience able to chime in?

Nutrients are not bottomed out and I have since limited any iron sources as well.
 
Physical size of the UV will often dictate how big you can go. Check dimensions to work in your space.
 
Hi!
Id go with the AquaUV 40w or 57w. (The 57 is easier to fit in a cabinet)

Since Ive had the 25w running on my 150gal tank Ive been dealing with less algae and no fish diseases. My achilles and powder blue have the smoothest skin ever!

Im working on a new tank now (260gal heavy on fish mixed reef) and Im going with a 57w.
Just follow their instructions on water flow.

I know they sound expensive (around $600 for the 57w) but before I had it I lost a couple fish that were more expensive than that.
 
Hey Mechano - I wouldn't worry too much about killing planktonic life in the water column, we have basically next to none in our tanks, and if we do - they'd be skimmed and filtered out as well. I have two of the Pentair 80w units on my 600g display volume, so you could probably go with one 80w. I wouldn't go less than the 57watt if going with AquaUVs units. Another great thing to consider is to run it with an adjustable DC pump, so if needed you can switch the flow rate from slower for pathogens like ich, etc. and faster for algae/bacteria blooms. When I add new fish, I switch mine to slower rate for about a month or two, then increase to faster rate there after.
 
I just sized one for my much smaller tank (75g) and did a good bit of research. Can’t seem to find the article that helped me calculate, but here’s some theory I remember that might help:

The first step is deciding what you want it to target:
  • Clarification (algae)
  • Sterilization 1 (bacteria/virus)
  • Sterilization 2 (ich, velvet, etc.)
You can think of UV as a dose of energy. The higher the dose, the more kill potential. So in the list above, clarification needs the least dose and sterilization 2 needs the most dose. I forget the exact kill dosages so you’ll have to look that up.

So how do you increase the dosage?:
  • More powerful bulb
  • Longer exposure time
    • Lower flow rate
    • Bigger vessel/unit
The key is matching this all to your aquarium turnover rate (not necessarily volume). There are charts out there for reference, but I believe minimum turnover rate for level 2 sterilization is about 3x. So if your goal is level 2 sterilization on a 250g system, that means you would need a sterilizer that can deliver a level 2 sterilization dose while running at 750gph or higher.

Too low dose, and it wouldn’t kill. Too low turnover rate, and it doesn’t process enough water to clean your whole system effectively.

The other consideration is plumbing configuration. If it is plumbed inline with your return pump, you’ll have to change your system turnover rate to work with the uv. If you run a separate pump for the uv, it will take more equipment/space in the sump, but will allow you to target your uv flow rate independent of your sump turnover rate.

I went for a 25w lifeguard aquatics uv (highly recommend), plumbed in-line with my return. I only do 3-5x turnover through my sump, so that worked as I’m flowing ~ 250gph back to my DT. If you’re someone who likes to crank water through your sump (10x), you’ll need a separate Uv pump or a massive Uv.

Good luck!
 
Bought the 120 W aquatic life pro max fixture. It’s basically a stand alone unit I am using in the display til the Dinos are cooked (along with anything else likely)

Then in future I will just plumb it into sump plumbing and will likely run it less frequently.

The real goal here was to deal with ostreopsis indefinitely, for a few weeks directly in the display to nuke these little devils in their track.

Dinos….fun fun
 
Bought the 120 W aquatic life pro max fixture. It’s basically a stand alone unit I am using in the display til the Dinos are cooked (along with anything else likely)

Then in future I will just plumb it into sump plumbing and will likely run it less frequently.

The real goal here was to deal with ostreopsis indefinitely, for a few weeks directly in the display to nuke these little devils in their track.

Dinos….fun fun
Sounds like a plan. I got mine to deal with Dino’s and film algae. What I didn’t expect was how clear it was going to make my water. Definitely the most overnight improvement I’ve ever seen on my tank. And it kicked Dino’s in a couple days. Along with the few patches of Cyano…
 
Sounds like a plan. I got mine to deal with Dino’s and film algae. What I didn’t expect was how clear it was going to make my water. Definitely the most overnight improvement I’ve ever seen on my tank. And it kicked Dino’s in a couple days. Along with the few patches of Cyano…
Nice. I do have a smaller Uv system on my system but not equipped for Dino’s , that’s for sure. But it does make clarity of water nice
 
40w Aqua UV unit mounted in stand that is 48" wide (just barely fits). I run low flow to control parasites so being on my return pump is not a flow issue.

IMG_7753.jpeg
 
Received the bazooka. Set it up temporarily in the DT tank. Burn Dino’s burn

Tank is on a reduced light intensity, phos and nitrate in a good range, silica dosed (starting to see diatoms grow now in place of the dang Dino’s and rocks clearing up)

Still haven’t used the protein skimmer for a week now, macro and filter roller mat , with some carbon to prevent any toxins in the system from the dieing ostreopsis devil….
:)
Things are looking up

Only wondering if I will really need to use a protein skimmer in this set up again lol.

72x30x20”H tank if anyone cares
 

Attachments

  • AF176DB2-D47F-46F5-8A2B-9EC1870BBCFD.jpeg
    AF176DB2-D47F-46F5-8A2B-9EC1870BBCFD.jpeg
    118.5 KB · Views: 23
  • 56EAFAE4-3AC3-4A3B-8036-2DBDB5625366.jpeg
    56EAFAE4-3AC3-4A3B-8036-2DBDB5625366.jpeg
    159.9 KB · Views: 24
So I am battling ostreopsis and currently have a 250g total system.

I figured it’s time to purchase a better UV light than what I have at present.

Question is IF money wasn’t an issue, what size of UV would u run on this size system?
I don’t wanna cheap out on this but also don’t wanna be destroying all the planktonic food sources in my system.

Would I be correct in purchasing the AquaUV 57W or 80W or 114W? Anyone with experience able to chime in?

Nutrients are not bottomed out and I have since limited any iron sources as well.
40w or 57wt
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top