Are DIY LEDs still a thing?

[TheHarold]

“black box” fixtures can be had for <$80, and then customized with your own control system or specific spectrum. I think that took over most DIY-from-scratch builds.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

“black box” fixtures can be had for <$80, and then customized with your own control system or specific spectrum. I think that took over most DIY-from-scratch builds.

This here too. I've got 3 viparspectras over my 120, I removed all but 6 whites from white channel and replaced with RB, violets, and couple cyans and popped the lenses off. Work vs reward is pretty solid, got it down so it takes me about an hour or less to replace all the leds on one channel.

Longest part was trying to figure out a layout/combo.

Plus, super easy to replace/repair. I have one extra that I can just swap fixtures out if repairs need to be made.

 

[User1]

I think it really depends on the hobbyist. Short answer is yes, they are popular and still in use. However the main difference between the two points in time is that when DIY started there are not a lot of choices compared to today with a lot of choices. The main deal breaker today is the cost of the units. No name knock offs can be had for 100 - 200 bucks but then there are named brands and you are paying between 400 and 1100. Just depends on the Watts, etc.

Another drawback from DIY is the cable management and overall clean look. Over the counter shrink wrap they have a nice form factor. DIY not so much unless the hobbyist adds the cost and time or both or some combination of the two into it. I've seen some pretty amazing DIY solutions so this isn't a huge deal but still a road block to some. Heck, once in a canopy who cares There is always that.

Now let us talk about functionality, intensity, and spectrum. DIY still has it be it using single LED's or multi channel arrays. You just have to do some leg work and be smart. Blue Acro has some amazing multi channel arrays and I've used their Acro Star Pro's with success. Nano reef tanks also has a multi array that is amazing. Multi channels are nice because they can clean up wires and reduce that mess and when finished cost less than half of what you would pay for a single premium unit. Even using single LED's with the right composition you can get power, spread, intensity, and spectrum but it may require more.

DIY has a lot to offer when properly planned and use of quality parts. It has come a long way compared to earlier years but I still feel it is a great option if you need to budget or move money to other areas first. It comes down to how it is deployed.

 

[Reefs and Geeks]

I had done alot of research and put together lists of everything i'd need to buy and do to make the lights I wanted. After really adding everything up, it just didn't make sense to do when there are so many good options that are plug and play, would probably look a bit better than what i'd build, and easy to sell eventually. I was excited to try to build up my own lights, but ended up just buying premade. Plus premade lights have a comunity of people who can help set them up. DIY is a one man show, and if something's not right, it's likely a bigger headache to fix. At least those were my feelings on it.

Still seems like a really fun project though. Maybe one day just for fun

 

[blasterman]

Do you have any par measurements for the LEDs only? I'd be curious how much penetration you would have without lenses.

I busted out my old tinker build. 6x12 beefcake sink. I've got two 4 channel boards with various meanwell drivers. I'd like to make a 4 (maaaaybe 5) channel light, probably use it on my coral QT. I've got a bunch of K16s and a couple of these LumiLed Fresh Fish cobs which are full spectrum. Playing with idea of 4xK16, 2xFreshFish, 4-6xSteves Led HyperViolets. Also got some mints I can throw in there and maybe some blues to bring down the "purple" look.

Ideally I'd like to run it off of 1 4 ch board but I'd have to run the K16s and FF in parallel which I'm not a huge fan of... But hey, for science!

Those Big Luxeon K chips can be found on Ebay for like $5.00. You would think the likes of Radion, AI etc would have been all over them because of the sheer firepower of that much 450nm light on a single die. Instead they keep dinking around with 3w emitters.

One advantage big manufacturers have is PCB design. Even the chinese are doing that. One advantage we have with DIY is I don't have to waste money on violets.

I brought my modified BB to the local reef store and it crushed every light they had in the shop.

I do admit I have a guilty pleasure for Kessil shimmer. Problem is, I don't like Kessil color.

I just completed a japanese style shoji lamp with two big Bridgelux Veros. Lights up an entire room with ambient light.

 

[garbled]

A big thing for me is controllability via apex. I can hook a meanwell up to an apex and control it all day long. The black box ones, not so much. Who even knows what dimer style most of them use? Half of them just appear to be potentiometers, but what setting?

If I'm going to have to debug the lights until I can figure out the dimming, and then build an ESP to interface it to the Apex, then meh, build my own.

Yes, the blackboxes come with dimmers, some even really advanced, but they aren't integratable with an existing controller, and other lights you may or may not have, or other pieces of the puzzle.

All that being said, just replaced one of my ancient 20W pendants, and upgraded the lens setup slightly while I was in there:

 

[chiefifd]

I built my two 18 inch LED light fixtures about 8 years ago for my 90-gallon tank. I went with ReefLEDLights.com (Looks like their website is either down or they're out of business, no action on their FaceBook page either). I paid about $1,100.00 with an Apex Jr. to run the lights, they're still working fine. The lights are now controlled by an Apex EL. I do need to rent a Par-Meter .....
I'm sure when I need new light's I won't do another build. ;Happy

 

[Ratherbeflyen]

Yeah, I have old 20W 45mil Epistar COB's over my 120, on passive heatsinks. They've been running for 5+ years now, and only this week one of the LED's died. Could not be happier.

That 10W build is super nice. I have to ask, what did that sink cost you?

The heat sink was kind of free. It's a left over remnant of the 2 x 20' piece's 6" aluminum channel I built my stand out of.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

A big thing for me is controllability via apex. I can hook a meanwell up to an apex and control it all day long. The black box ones, not so much. Who even knows what dimer style most of them use? Half of them just appear to be potentiometers, but what setting?

If I'm going to have to debug the lights until I can figure out the dimming, and then build an ESP to interface it to the Apex, then meh, build my own.

Yes, the blackboxes come with dimmers, some even really advanced, but they aren't integratable with an existing controller, and other lights you may or may not have, or other pieces of the puzzle.

All that being said, just replaced one of my ancient 20W pendants, and upgraded the lens setup slightly while I was in there:

Agreed, where ALOT of "premium" fixtures are killing it is control-ability. But, DIY has that covered as well. All 3 of my viparspectras are controlled via reefpi, allows for full control of both channels (ramping, on, off, scheduling etc). The only wire other than power running to the lights is a 24 awg 3 conductor cable that goes to the master light and then daisy chains to the remaining two.

With lenses off, coverage is pretty impressive.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

All this talk about diy LEDs got me thinking... and this is where it ended up:

I popped open one of my spare viparspectras and replaced a white with a Luxeon C Mint

Not sure if it's been done (there's no way I'm the first to try this, but maybe?), but now I want to go and replace some of the crappy 395s that burn out with quality LEDs, either SemiLed or if I can get a good price, some Philips Z package.

Thinking about replacing the greens, maybe the reds, or greens and some whites with mint and see how it looks.

As long as I keep voltage in the same ballpark (most of these are in the 2.5-3v) range I should be good, especially on White channel which won't be driven as hard... Yet.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Steve's LED has Luxeon C package for dirt cheap, so I picked up 20 more mints and limes to play with.

 

[ajjw0828]

Here are both my LED lights. One in a Aquatic life fixrture the other in frame from RapidLED. Last I checked with my par Meter I was getting about 400 par mid way in the tank at 50% power when lights dimmed. Haven't checked par on my bigger light fixture yet.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

If this actually works the way I hope, I think I'll have to get some thermal epoxy to hold the stars in place. Right now they're just held with thermal paste and pressure from solder wire/joint...which may or may not be enough for heat transfer.

Wish I had a ir thermometer, might just let it run and do the ol FingerTherm Mk1 test hahaha

 

[Paul B]

Everything can be DIYed. I DIYed my wife.

I built this water cooled, 6' LED system with a water pump, radiator and all. It had an auto stop if the water stopped circulating. I think it was very cool.



Even the light on my algae scruber was water cooled LEDs. Anybody can buy a light.
I couldn't find an American light, so I made one.

 

[garbled]

Ajjw: I love that fixture. What LED's are you running there? The only thing that terrifies me about it is having the ballast over the tank, though, I guess thats just purely paranoia on my part tho.

 

[ajjw0828]

Ajjw: I love that fixture. What LED's are you running there? The only thing that terrifies me about it is having the ballast over the tank, though, I guess thats just purely paranoia on my part tho.

Thanks! I'm running Citizen CLU048-1212C4-B455-XX COB led's, they're 455nm blue LEDS. They use passive heat sinks which I got from RapidLED, and then I ordered the glass lenses off ebay from a chinese company. I got the meanwell driver off Rapid LED too. You could easily mount the driver somewhere hidden, it just never really crossed my mind to have it mounted elsewhere which I might actually do now that you said that. Just a little more wire. I got the idea from another local reefer that has the most amazing 1200 g SPS tank I've ever seen. He uses them in conjunction with T5's. They're very powerfull and I've never had an issue. Plus last I remember they were about $16 per COB. I've never had one burn out and been running them about 1.5 years. He's been running them for like 5 years with no issues. The lenses are only 15 bucks a pop and well made thick glass. Just takes awhile coming from china (3 weeks I think). Very easy to assemble, I have some pictures of the build on my build thread if interested. Also Rapid LED does 10% off for first time customers.

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[garbled]

Thats very similar to my cannon setup. I use ebay lenses, and EpiStar COB's. +100 points for passive heatsinks. Super nice! I guess DIY LED's aren't dead.

 

[Ratherbeflyen]

Everything can be DIYed. I DIYed my wife.

I built this water cooled, 6' LED system with a water pump, radiator and all. It had an auto stop if the water stopped circulating. I think it was very cool.



Even the light on my algae scruber was water cooled LEDs. Anybody can buy a light.
I couldn't find an American light, so I made one.

I thought about water cooling my lights. I was thinking about using square aluminum tubing and running tank water through it. That way it would cool the lights and heat the tank at the same time. Two birds with one stone, at least in the winter anyway.

I couldn't think of a way to attach the leds to the tubing that wouldn't be compromised by the water. How did you adhere the leds to the copper?

 

[Paul B]

You have to use thermal adhesive. It is glue but it transfers the heat. Aluminum is tough because you can't weld it well and it is hard to seal so I used copper and coated it with epoxy resin.

 

[DaddyFish]

I thought about water cooling my lights. I was thinking about using square aluminum tubing and running tank water through it. That way it would cool the lights and heat the tank at the same time. Two birds with one stone, at least in the winter anyway.

I couldn't think of a way to attach the leds to the tubing that wouldn't be compromised by the water. How did you adhere the leds to the copper?

Can I please hijack this for a moment???
Is there any contamination concern with running tank water through aluminum? What if it's anodized aluminum?

Reason I ask is I'm working on a DIY chiller system and can't find any type of titanium heat exchanger for less than the cost of a new car!