are hanna checkers worth it

Are they worth it?

For phosphate: yes.
For the rest of the parameters? NOOOOOOO.

Salifert is more accurate when it comes to alkalinity, calcium and magnesium than Hanna will ever be. Titration is simply more accurate than extinction photometry. That's a physical limitation.
And when it comes to nitrate a result like: between 20mg/l and 10mg/l is usually close enough.
I completely agree with you.

I only use the phosphate ULR and the Nitrate HR. I wouldn’t use the others unless I had a genuine reason to (like being colorblind). The titrations (salifert or Red Sea) are more accurate and cheaper.
 
I have six: Alk, Ca, Mg, Nitrate HR, ULR Phosphate, and Copper.

Since completing the initial cycle I don't think I have ever tested ammonia or nitrite (and I used API for the cycling tests) and I use probes for pH testing.

I have been very happy with the Hanna checkers and I get consistent results provided I am careful and develop a repeatable process. For me, the biggest benefit is the digital readout, as it reduces variance associated with interpreting the test results. I also like having the individual checkers as I can test several parameters at once (as opposed to the Marine Master where you would test one at a time). I basically have a routine where I can check all five start to finish, including clean-up, in under 30 minutes.

The cost is a bit of a deterrent (and I am not thrilled with the cost of replacement reagents), but again I am happy overall. I have some Salifert, Red Sea, and Aqua Forest kits as backup for Alk, Ca, and Mg in case I want to cross-check.
 
You dont need ammonia or nitrite. From what I've recently read calcium test is not easy to use (I use red sea pro kit). Alk, phosphate, and HR nitrate would be all I get maybe copper for QT. If you really want to test ammonia and nitrite api (I know) work fine.
 
You're going to get people on both sides of the fence here on what is better or worse. IMO (and I'm nowhere near as experienced as many of these guys here) stability and consistency are key. Whichever you decide to go with make sure those are the ones you keep using and make sure your tests are done the same way every time. I prefer the Hanna checkers and I use 6 of them, the Salinity checker, pH, dkH, high-range nitrate, low-range phosphate (not the ultra-low because my po4 doesn't get that low), and calcium.
 
Hanna checkers are worth it to me because I have a hard time deciphering which shade of color is what number. The test results aren’t contrasting enough for me in most titration test kits, with exception to those that change an entirely different color. The Hanna checkers give a nice digital display, but they are still hobby grade testers, and have a margin of error too.
 
I test Alk, Nitrate, Phosphate, and copper (For QT) with hanna.
I do also have calcium and magnesium testers but I never use them for the same reasons others have stated. I have no idea what those values are.
I do test ph and salinity continously with my hydros and keep them calibrated.
 
I was thinking ph, Kh, Nh4, No2, No3, Po4, and ca
I’d drop nitrite. Never needed. pH has many good brands, no reason to use Hanna. Avoid the Hanna calcium as it is poorly designed and vexes many reefers.

Ammonia is also likely not worth it. A cheap kit is fine for those few needs.
 
I don’t bother using them. API close enough for dkh and nitrates based on my requirements. Calcium too. Although Red Sea seems best for that. Phosphates where I’d get a Hanna but reality is a Fuge keeps them in check. Not one who cares to run 0.03. For pH I use a probe that gets calibrated often enough. Magnesium I’ll wait on ICP or just dosed based on Randy’s simple calculation although AF seems best for it.

My issue with Hanna has always been the fact at some point it will need to be calibrated. Plus I’ve found it’s easier to match colors on API tests by looking down on the vial against the card in bright light. Doesn’t need to be daylight because both the liquid and card under the same light. Degree of variance what matters and not actual color.

Do use their salinity tester which seems good enough when calibrated although eventually I’m getting a Milwaukee Refractometer.

If one needs precision then can’t beat Hanna assuming there’s a second way to verify since at some point it will need calibration.
 
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I would suggest to get one at a time, there's no hurry if you have no corals yet. I only have the phosphate, alkalinity, and calcium checkers, IMO these are the most important.

Don't forgot, these testers represent a pretty hefty monthly cost for regeants. The more testers you have and the more frequently you test, very easy to get $50-$75 monthly bill for just regeants alone.
 
All of my Hanna checkers were used and from reefers leaving the hobby. I have Alk, ULR Phosphorus, and Nitrate HR on Hanna. I collected these checkers over several years. To me, not having to look at the colors makes it the best and consistent option.

I just picked up an used Hanna Copper checker for cheap, but I don't use it much unless I need to QT. For calcium and magnesium, I use the Salifert, and it's used to mainly to double check or calibrate the Trident. I also have ammonia and nitrite from Salifert, but I don't use them since the cycle or I need to check QT water.
 
If you ask me it is worth picking and choosing. My favorites are the Alk, Ultralow Range Phosphate, and High Range Nitrate. These all use 1 reagent and are some of the most accurate and easy to use.

Hanna Nitrate HR, Phosphate ULR and Alk are the only ones worth it to me
Same.
I have copper and pH. Copper only for medicated QT / hospital tank. pH I couldn't tell you the last time I used it.
 
I’d drop nitrite. Never needed. pH has many good brands, no reason to use Hanna. Avoid the Hanna calcium as it is poorly designed and vexes many reefers.

Ammonia is also likely not worth it. A cheap kit is fine for those few needs.
Thank you!
 
I bought the master checker kit when I got started. I think I lucked into a sale where the whole kit was <$300. The only thing I don't like about the master kit is that you can't run multiple tests in parallel. The reaction time for high range nitrate test is 7 minutes, and I could do all of my other tests while I waited if I had separate eggs.

One thing I really like about the master kit is that it uses wide mouth cuvettes. It is much easier to get the reagents into them than it is in the narrow cuvette I have with my Hanna copper test.

@Randy Holmes-Farley I'm surprised to see so much dislike for the calcium test. The procedure is a bit odd compared to the others, but I seem to get pretty consistent results. Are there accuracy issues, ot is it just that people struggle with the funky procedure?
 
I'm surprised to see so much dislike for the calcium test. The procedure is a bit odd compared to the others, but I seem to get pretty consistent results. Are there accuracy issues, ot is it just that people struggle with the funky procedure?
That’s been my experience. The results are comparable to other tests, but it’s an awkward test and I don’t run it enough to justify cost of reagent that usually expires on me. I’d only buy the calcium test if someone is selling it really cheap (which is almost always if you want to try one out).

Most of these kits can be easily found used for a great price. The only one I paid full price for was nitrate HR when it was released .
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley I'm surprised to see so much dislike for the calcium test. The procedure is a bit odd compared to the others, but I seem to get pretty consistent results. Are there accuracy issues, ot is it just that people struggle with the funky procedure?

I also found this odd. I don't have any issues with the calcium tester and honestly looking at the red sea prompt card for their calcium test it looks much more involved than the Hanna one. What am I missing? Is it just that titration is more accurate?

I hope the Hydros Maven is half decent. Testing is the bane of my existence.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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