Are Jeabo pumps junk?

[Playa-1]

Controller ruled out in my case. Pump failed after 3 months. Controller bugged from day one. My conclusion is junk equipment. It's not worth screwing around with in my opinion. I replaced with Tunze and never looked back.

 

[PSLReefer]

Yes, exactly. Bought an Iwaki 40 in 1988 for around $200 and it ran flawlessly for me until I retired it in 2008. How many times would a Jebao have needed to be replaced in that time? I don't know if course, but even a couple of time s and the 'savings' go pfffffft.

Lol ya I bet that dinosaur takes up half your aquarium too, and is an eyesore.

 

[jasonrusso]

Controller ruled out in my case. Pump failed after 3 months. Controller bugged from day one. My conclusion is junk equipment. It's not worth screwing around with in my opinion. I replaced with Tunze and never looked back.

So if you had one bad Tunze (because I'm sure they have failures too) you would say Tunze is crap?? Never again?? Did you try to get it warrantied?

I have a Reef Octopus skimmer. After a year my pump was making noise. The magnet on the impeller was cracked. They replaced it under warranty and it has been fine for the last 4 years. Should I say Sicce is crap?

 

[WhiskeyCoffee]

Have had two PP-4's running in my tank 24x7 for a year, not a single issue! Not bad for the price if you ask me.

 

[Playa-1]

I read the good and bad reviews first and took a chance. It didn't work out. So crap products IMO. You can make excuses for crap products if you want. Not me.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Here's the problem though. Regardless of why they fail or specifically what component fails is immaterial to me if I'm on a business trip and the thing stops working. I'm a looooong time reefer and a frequent flier - so bullet-proof, decades reliable pumps are essential for me.

Yes, it doesn't really matter if it's the pump controller or the motor itself, without one, the other is useless, and a failure is a failure. If Bullet-proof reliability is essential, then a more reliable (and expensive) pump combined with a regular maintenance schedule is probably your best bet.

I agreed with everything until this part. There is a whole other thread about this, so I don't want to turn this one into that one.

Without a probe, stray current uses the water as a conductor making a connection to the neutral. It won't trip the GFI

The probe gives stray current a path to ground creating the difference between the hot and neutral which trips the GFI.

Well, not necessarily, but I agree that that's a discussion for a different thread and we should try to keep this thread on topic.

I see that a lot of people blame the controller when the pump fails. Would hooking it up to the Apex solve that issue by taking the controller out of the equation?

The 3rd party controller hooks up to the Apex via a data cable. Where does it plug in? I have an Apex Jr and the only data cable is for the internet connection.

No, the pump controller is essential for creating the voltage waveform that makes the pump run. An Apex (or other controller) plugs into the pump controller, and gives it a signal, telling it how fast or slow to run, so if the pump controller fails an Apex still won't help you.

 

[jasonrusso]

No, the pump controller is essential for creating the voltage waveform that makes the pump run. An Apex (or other controller) plugs into the pump controller, and gives it a signal, telling it how fast or slow to run, so if the pump controller fails an Apex still won't help you.

Doesn't the Apex remove the controller from the equation? I am not sure because I am still trying to learn.

I thought that the Apex plugs directly into the pump and it becomes the controller.

 

[Sleepydoc]

No. The pump controller is still required. Essentially the Apex controller only takes over the speed control of the pump - think of it as replacing the up/down buttons on the front of the pump controller box. The controller box still supplies all the power for the pump.

 

[jasonrusso]

No. The pump controller is still required. Essentially the Apex controller only takes over the speed control of the pump - think of it as replacing the up/down buttons on the front of the pump controller box. The controller box still supplies all the power for the pump.

Ahhh, see. There is so much to learn still.

 

[Johncarey13]

i have a sw-2 and when i give it power its fine but when i plug the pump into the controller it shuts off?? what do you think i can do?

 

[Kyl]

i have a sw-2 and when i give it power its fine but when i plug the pump into the controller it shuts off?? what do you think i can do?

You're trying to control it externally via 0-10v, correct?

If so, the SW-2's do not function properly with said external voltage inputs. I posted a lengthly bit on my build thread elsewhere, but I'll include it here in a spoiler in case this is what you're running into. My terminology might not be 100%, but it's enough to follow:

Spoiler

I've done some extensive monkeying with the Jebao SW-2 pumps via Apex control as they never did work correctly. Unfortunately I've come to the conclusion that either both of these pumps are lemons, or Jebao slapped the 0-10v control option on the units without actually testing it.

Here's a bit of cut/paste from what I sent the vendor I picked these up from to see if he can get an answer from his supplier.

----------------------

Quote
I do not have any of the larger pumps (SW-4, +) to test this against, but I have asked a few others running these via apex to try and get me some voltage readings off of the AV lead to the pump from the controller board. I've spent the last couple of nights building a sheet of cause and effect with VDM and control voltages sent to the pump via the controller, and a definite problem has emerged.

First, the SW-2 control board is identical to the SW-4 and above controller boards (they're all stamped model JB-BW-01 revision date 2016-04-29), but I'm pretty sure these SW-2 pumps do not operate on the same voltage control response as it's bigger brothers. When running without an external 0-10v control, the controller to the pump will output between 3.3v (1 light bar @ ~20% speed) to 2.2v (7 light bars @ ~70% speed), and finally 0.03v (full light bars @ ~100% speed), and a final voltage of 4.6v to physically stop the impeller in wavemaker modes.

The problem with the SW-2 occurs when you connect the 0-10v control, it's outputting voltages to the pump that you would normally associate with going backwards. This is starting to make me think that they've included the wrong controller board for these pumps if using 0-10v control, or that the pumps are flat out aren't designed to run with external control and they just slapped the '0-10v control' option on there without actually testing it.

For example;

0v (0%) from apex = 0.03v to the pump, or 100% speed
5v (50%) apex = 1.94v pump. around 90% speed
10v (100%) apex = 3.95v pump, around 10% speed

You can see how this is working backwards to how it should, and that the voltage curve required to actually control the SW-2's lies very lightly between 10v - 6v, or 100% - 60% on the apex VDM percentages, and never does really flatten out for complete ramping control. You also cannot turn the pumps off via 0-10v, as 10v only translates to 3.95v control, short of the 4.6v plateau required to stop the impeller.

-----------------------------------------------------

Here's a bit of what I mean, as these points are measured by what the APEX VDM port is set at (0% = 0v, 50% = 5v, 100% = 10v), and showing what the controller is sending to the pump as a control voltage to tell it how to operate. For the SW-2, a lower voltage = faster speed and at 4.6v or above, the impeller physically stops.

Spoiler

0% .03v
1% .045v
2% .068v
3% .98v
4% .13v
5% .16v
10% .35v
15% .54v
20% .75v
25% .95v
30% 1.14v
35% 1.34v
40% 1.54v
45% 1.74v
50% 1.94v
55% 2.14v
60% 2.3v
65% 2.54v
70% 2.74v
75% 2.94v
80% 3.14v
85% 3.34v
90% 3.54v
95% 3.75v
100% 3.95v


So again, 0% 0v from apex means full speed on the pump. Conversely 100% from apex, 10v, translates to 3.95v to the pump, which puts it at I estimate 10% speed. Completely counter to how every other 0-10v pump operates. I guess it's a big you get what you pay for, especially with a brand new Jebao release that also has brand new functionality, there was no RW-2 or PP-2's before. As a side note, the older Jebao apex harnesses also do not work as it is designed to send a 0-5v input directly to the pump, but it just doesn't respond as it should, probably due to whatever internal circuitry is in the pump head itself and the voltage speed differences between it and the SW-4's or above.

---------------------------------------

I never did get a reply from the vendor, nor additional reference points from SW-4's or above, though I have SW-4's now. The SW-2's are in my QT tanks now just running stand alone on the controller, and aren't worth further effort since they've been replaced by an MP10WQD that they originally replaced.

 

[2Wheelsonly]

Still haven't heard what kind of maintenance these require.

Is it just cleaning the impeller from time to time?

Pumps are typically sealed, maintenance on just about any pump means cleaning guards and impellers.

 

[Rob77]

Guys just have to understand the importance of this topic. All these pumps run in saltwater, all these pumps eventually fail at some point. Its the heart of the system, everyone should have a plan just incase it does fail. I personal rather buy 2 jecod pumps instead of one expensive brand. Only because i have a plan, and am prepared for whats to come. Do not buy jebao pumps used to use them as a return pump either, because this layer of equipment needs to be frequently cleaned to work at peak performance. Regardless if you want to save money, its better to have an extra return on hand incase something goes south.

Im with you on this !

 

[redfishbluefish]

I'm just seeing this post and have not read through all eight pages, but here's my two cents.

This type of post could be started with any pump manufacturer, because we've all had different experiences.

I don't like Koralia's.....I had the original Koralia's when they were numbered K1, K2, etc., and the only issue I had with them is that they would start backwards. I still use these to mix my new saltwater....bullet-proof.....over ten years old. I pre-purchased four Evolution Koralias when they were first introduced and they didn't last a year. So I have a bad taste in my mouth for Koralia's. Now I know some who think these pumps are just fine. For me....I'd only consider buying an older model to use for mixing salt.....if it has a "K", I'm buying it used.

I have a Jebao powerhead.....just one....and haven't had any issue. So right now....and the price I paid....I'm happy.

Now these aren't powerheads, but just pumps, but I have two SWC skimmers, and I can only guess that within the last nine years or so I've had to replace somewhere in the area of eight of nine Atman pumps. I think these pumps are crap! If I could find a replacement that would fit, I'd buy it at the drop of a hat. Does anyone like Atman?


I have Vortech MP's....and I've had to rebuild two dry sides (new bearings) and replace four - five wetsides...swollen magnets. I'm still using them....at a relatively high cost of replacement of wetsides....so maybe I'm the one whose broken? (Time out while I bang my head against the wall.)

Bottom line.....mention a brand and there will be some who loves them and some who outright hates them.

 

[Minhaj Qazi]

I'm just seeing this post and have not read through all eight pages, but here's my two cents.

This type of post could be started with any pump manufacturer, because we've all had different experiences.

I don't like Koralia's.....I had the original Koralia's when they were numbered K1, K2, etc., and the only issue I had with them is that they would start backwards. I still use these to mix my new saltwater....bullet-proof.....over ten years old. I pre-purchased four Evolution Koralias when they were first introduced and they didn't last a year. So I have a bad taste in my mouth for Koralia's. Now I know some who think these pumps are just fine. For me....I'd only consider buying an older model to use for mixing salt.....if it has a "K", I'm buying it used.

I have a Jebao powerhead.....just one....and haven't had any issue. So right now....and the price I paid....I'm happy.

Now these aren't powerheads, but just pumps, but I have two SWC skimmers, and I can only guess that within the last nine years or so I've had to replace somewhere in the area of eight of nine Atman pumps. I think these pumps are crap! If I could find a replacement that would fit, I'd buy it at the drop of a hat. Does anyone like Atman?


I have Vortech MP's....and I've had to rebuild two dry sides (new bearings) and replace four - five wetsides...swollen magnets. I'm still using them....at a relatively high cost of replacement of wetsides....so maybe I'm the one whose broken? (Time out while I bang my head against the wall.)

Bottom line.....mention a brand and there will be some who loves them and some who outright hates them.

Actually I Have Coral Box and Jebao Doserd. If u Open Both, u will Find Same Chinese OEM of both brands.. Ok and My Jebao Save .akers are Still 100% Working since 3 years.
Nof even DOS of Apex is Accurate. Its about Budget u have.
I have made few DIY Wave Bix and Sweep from Jebao and they working well.

 

[Koh23]

Its all the same "junk".....

Does really "x" with price tag of 500$ work 10 times better, or produce 10 times better results than "y" with price of 50$.... I dont think so.....

But like everyrhing, this hobby became great way of milking money, wich is ok, as long as one have in mind that u dont need to have 5000$ lighting, 2000$ in pumps..... Ok, there probably is some of the cases where this is necessary, but in domain of hobby and home reefing.... Plain stupid....

Around 2010-2012 market in our hobby became overflooded with chinese stuff - atman tanks and equipment, boyu, sunsun, resun, later came, mainly via ebay jebao.... Probably some more that i cant think of.... And probably nost of you in "modern" world newer heard of....

And guess what it was dirt cheap - 3000lph wavemaker for around 6-7$, heaters for few $, whole tanks with filtration, lighting for 100-ish $.....

One of best nano skimmer that i had was some "generic chinese alfabet letters" for 10$....

And guess what, again.... Yes, there was failures, but who cares, just buy 2 and have backup, or something to trade...

Some of the equipment from that era i still have running, without any issue. And many people do....

Jebao is ok, have its flaws, of course, but.... Besides, dont know hows in usa, here all if newer jebao models come with ATI "badge"..... Yes, that ati.....

So, is it garbage because its jebao, or is it good product because its ati?

 

[rtparty]

It's a lottery. They've always been junk in some way.

I prefer to support the companies that support the hobby and actually innovate products. Stealing designs and pumping them out for cheap is not innovation.

Buying 2 because the first might be junk is ludicrous. We don't need more electronic waste filling our landfills. This hobby is one crazy decision away from being shut down. We, as hobbyists, don't need to fuel the fire by being irresponsible.

 

[Cell]

It's a lottery. They've always been junk in some way.

I prefer to support the companies that support the hobby and actually innovate products. Stealing designs and pumping them out for cheap is not innovation.

Buying 2 because the first might be junk is ludicrous. We don't need more electronic waste filling our landfills. This hobby is one crazy decision away from being shut down. We, as hobbyists, don't need to fuel the fire by being irresponsible.

Cheaper versions of products that don't last as long as other more expensive brands of the same type of product is not limited to the reefing hobby by any means.

 

[Snuggs]

4 years on my PP4. 3 with my slw. No problems to date

 

[piranhaman00]

I also believe Jebao products have come a long way since this post was originated in 2017, I