Are more expensive PVC cement & primer better?

Levinson

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Is there a point in using more expensive PVC cement and primer for plumbing?
I'm almost done with dry fitting the parts but the PVC cement I have is too old and I don't have any primer so I need to order some.
I've used Weld-on 717 PVC cement before but it is one of the most expensive and there are other cheaper alternatives available. The price difference is not huge (although percentage-wise they are, like 2~5 times cheaper) and sure I'm willing to pay extra for peace of mind but I just wanted to know if there could actually be a difference.
I live in Korea so my options here are a bit different from elsewhere.
 
They make clear drying 2 in 1 primer/cement that is more expensive but it doesn't leave purple primer on the pipe. Do you mean things like that?
 
They make clear drying 2 in 1 primer/cement that is more expensive but it doesn't leave purple primer on the pipe. Do you mean things like that?
No, I meant just some brands or products being more expensive/cheaper than others.
A little offtopic but if I can get my hands on that 2 in 1 stuff here, I wouldn't mind getting them but so far, I haven't seen any. My guess is they probably only sell them in larger volumes here.
 
I was advised by the guy in the plumbing section of a big box store to buy separate products (primer and glue), rather than the all-in-one. In his words, “One thing can’t ever do as well what two things were designed to do.”
 
It actually reminded me of when I went to “stain” and “varnish” my tank stand. I used an all-in-one product, and it went on like glue— it was awful. :(
 
Hi ,hope you can get this,or something similar,
have run miles of up to 4" pvc, not abs,
skip the primer instructions on can,
works quick, best seal you can get IMO.
WP_20200412_15_53_44_Pro.jpg
 
No the more expensive stuff doesn’t make any difference. Glueing PVC to ABS Bulkheads, you do need a Multi Purpose Glue. They have Slow and Fast Set PVC Glues. We used the Slow Set on Bigger Pipe, 4” and up when i did big fittings on cooling towers. Also I would pay extra for Clear Primer, for your Aquarium piping. Just don’t use it for household plumbing, as it won’t pass inspection. Also they have wet set PVC Glue that can be used in the rain, or when you have a dribbling pipe. This should not be used on Aquarium though, as it has a longer toxic to cure time. The main thing is to not use old thickened Glue, use pliers to snug up the caps. I always stored the cans upside down, to keep the glue fresh.
 
WP_20200815_01_10_10_Pro.jpg

ABS to PVC.
8000 gals going over just the last 15 yrs, never seen ill effect on any livestock using this specific cement.

WP_20200412_15_53_44_Pro.jpg

WP_20160405_001.jpg
 
You don't have to use primer on the smaller pipes we use in the hobby. When you get up to 2" and above I may use it. It is not necessary just clean the joint so there is no grease on it.

I also don't use it in housing and have been glueing PVC since they invented the stuff.
 
Just fyi - most aquarium pumps are 25ft head or less. That is 11psi.

Schedule 40 PVC is rated for somewhere between 280-600psi depending on the size. You have a very large margin of safety here assuming you are working with "normal" aquarium equipment.

The glue typically lists the sizes it will work with on the back. If you are concerned, buy a name brand you recognize for peace of mind - but - any of the glue that is sold for use in a pressurized application will be plenty strong for what you are doing. Read the back - it may say what pressure the glue is rated for. Make sure it says it is compatible with the type of material you are using for pipe and fittings.

The colored primer is required to pass inspections. That is why it is designed to stain the pipe a color. For inspectors to easily see if it was used or not. Clear isn't a problem as you do not need to have your aquarium inspected and you know if you used primer or not.
 
Pvc glue is pvc glue.. colors n such are the choices... It will all create the chemical reaction needed to weld the seams together... I have plumbed many different tanks and mixing stations over the years and never have I used primer unless I'm working with old dirty previously used pipes. Never had a leak, knock on wood lol
 
@JumboShrimp @Gp! @fishguy242 @Paul B @PigFarmer
Thank you everyone for the input!
Unfortunately, we don't have the Oatey stuff here so I'll guess go for other reasonably priced stuff.
Actually, I haven't used primer to cement PVC in the experimental aquarium plumbing job I've done in the past and it had no issues. I've used Weld-on 605 PVC-U (it says it's for construction) and used it on PVC pipe to PC bulkhead too. Back then, I didn't care much (and also didn't know better).
At first, I didn't plan on using a primer like last time but the more I research for my build, the more scared I become of all the things they say that could possibly go wrong. Especially with the stakes being much higher.
It's not like I have enough faith in my DIY skills and now I'm just dead scared of stuff leaking (and setting everything on fire, causing explosions, etc).
 
Under minimal pressure like home aquariums you could probably run the tank with the joints dry fitted :)

Any glue will work, primer not necessary
 
Remember PVC "glue" is not glue. It is solvent and basically melts the pipes together. If you tried to "glue" anything else with it, it would just fall apart.
I would argue that. You can take a joint apart as are not melted together at all. To reuse a female fitting you can not get at the moment you can heat up the part you don't want to save and twist or colapse it and pry it away from the other part. To remove an external fitting. I cut slots most of the way through in 2 or 3 places first. Then use a wide flat screw driver to pry them apart. The pieces will break off and you can use your part again. I have done so on many occasions. Its not ideal, but can be.useful when you in the middle of something and realize your don't have a fitting you need at 11:00 at night.
 
I would argue that. You can take a joint apart as are not melted together at all. To reuse a female fitting you can not get at the moment you can heat up the part you don't want to save and twist or colapse it and pry it away from the other part. To remove an external fitting. I cut slots most of the way through in 2 or 3 places first. Then use a wide flat screw driver to pry them apart. The pieces will break off and you can use your part again. I have done so on many occasions. Its not ideal, but can be.useful when you in the middle of something and realize your don't have a fitting you need at 11:00 at night.
There's nothing to argue lol its literally how the stuff works. It fuses the pipe and fitting together the solvent softens the outside of the plastics so they can bond it isnt a glue. Yeah it can be separated with enough force and joints do fail but that's because it's a joint and its a thin layer that's fused together.
 
I've been using Christy Red Hot Blue Glue almost exclusively for 20+ years without any failures. Sometimes purple primer but usually just a light sanding to deburr and smoothen the surface with 300 grit wet or dry.
 

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