Looks great on the stand! In terms of electrical, you should be fine. However, its always safest to put aquariums on GFCI outlets (like those in bathrooms) in case of a water spill, but that's not always possible to do. You can install them yourself on the current outlets and I believe its pretty inexpensive and straight forward. I'm in an apartment, so I didn't want to modify any electrical, so mine is just running off of regular outlets and I haven't had any issues. Just be careful to put drip loops in your cords so that water can't run down into the outlet. Also, you'll need to plug in quite a few things for the tank, so just get a couple high quality power strips. I like the ones where each outlet on the strip has its own power switch, so you can switch different equipment on and off easily. I use ones like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-I...=8-1&keywords=power+strip+individual+switches
Sorry I didn't get to chime in about the sump! I've been out of town, so I haven't been online much. I just wanted to tell you that I definitely recommend a sump, especially on a larger tank like this. Of course each person will have their own preference, but after running with and without a sump, I much prefer having the sump. I think it makes it much easier to access and maintain the equipment and it hides all the messy parts of the tank under the stand so that the tank itself can look sleek and uncluttered. Designing and installing a sump system can be a bit daunting, but if you take your time and think through it all, its actually very feasible to design it so that there is absolutely never a risk of an overflow or flood. Your LFS sounds like its probably more freshwater oriented and probably just isn't as familiar/comfortable with sump systems. I can't put every single detail about installing a sump in a single post, but feel free to ask questions as you get it set up. I'd also go read other people's threads about installing sumps to see what they've done and to learn the ins and outs of setting one up. Here's a few pointers to make sure you don't have any risk of flood/overflow:
1) Design your sump so that its only partially full of water when its running. Make sure that you leave enough height unfilled so that when the return pump is turned off, the water in the display can finish draining down to the bottom of the overflow teeth without overflowing the sump. You can figure out the volume of water that will drain into the sump when you turn the return pump off by entering the length and width or your aquarium plus the height of the water above the bottom of the overflow teeth into an aquarium volume calculator like this one:
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/converter/volume-calculator.php
2) Drill a small hole into your return pipe just below the display tank water line. When you turn off the return pump, the return line will develop a siphon and drain water back down into the sump. Drilling a small hole in the pipe just below the water line in the display means that the siphon will break after just a small amount of water has drained back down into the sump.
3) You also want to design the water height in your display so that there is some extra space for additional water from the sump in the case of the overflow siphon breaking while the return pump is still running. If your overflow gets clogged or the siphon breaks, the return pump will still be running and will pump the contents of the return pump chamber up into your display. You need to figure out how much water will be in the return pump chamber and make sure that amount of water can be added to the display or you could have a flood.
4) If you're going to use on of those hang on back overflows, I highly recommend spray painting the siphon tube black before installing it. The clear siphon tubes are a nightmare because they're under your reef lighting so they'll grow tons of algae, which then clogs them and breaks the siphon. I had one of these style overflows and I was constantly fighting with it because of the algae growth. If you paint the tube black, you won't get any algae growth from the lights. Personally, after having one of the hang on back styles and then moving to a drilled overflow, I much prefer the drilled overflow. However, that's again personal preference. I just feel like I have absolutely no issues with my drilled overflow compared to my hang on back one.
5) Make sure your overflow has a cover so that snails and fish cannot get into the overflow box. Snails can clog the overflow and you don't want your fish ending up down in your sump.
6) Make sure your filter sock is mounted down low enough in the sump that if you don't replace it and it overflows, that it will just be overflowing into the sump and not onto your floor. I have a mount for my filter sock that has the top of the filter sock a couple inches down below the top rim of my sump. For example, I'm on vacation right now and the sock isn't getting replaced regularly, so I'm sure its clogged. Since my sock is down a bit into the sump, this just means the water is pouring over the edge of the sock into the sump and not making a mess.
That's the advice I could think of off the top of my head. Let me know if you have any questions!
