At My Wits End!

NanaReefer

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Hi Randy-

Not sure if you can help but I'm hoping so.
I've been battling this substance on my sand bed off and on now for a year. Which is how old my tank is. I cannot figure it out.
I thought Diatoms at first. But on closer inspection I see tiny hairs. Not slimy, no bubbles. It clumps the smaller sand particles together.
I thought Cyanobacteria, just a different color. But again, not slimy nor mat like. But is does receded greatly after lights out. Back full force the longer lights are on. So definitely photosynthetic.
I thought Dino's. But my snails are alive and well. No stringy slimy bubbles.

Everything is thriving. Corals growing great. Fish happy.
Consistent and balanced parameters. No swinging. Stable temp.
Dosing nothing but 2part.
Bi-weekly 5g WC.
Feed 1x daily.
Last WC I vacuumed the SB for the first time. Stuff was back by mid noon the next day.

LED whites only pictures.

Please any suggestions on how to clean this mess up?
adef09666e6e1da26d3330ac132c6b8a.jpg

124ca81762cb68775624e8f8eb9899fc.jpg
 
Could be either diatoms or cyano. Reducing nutrients will work for both. Reducing silicate will help if it is diatoms. GFO will reduce both phosphate and silicate, so may be a good option, but there are many others as well.

Hopefully it isn't dinos, which are a whole other kettle of fish.
 
This is quite common, actually. I've had it for the last 9 months or so in a 7 yr old small tank. Harms nothing, but it is a bit unsightly :(

Looking through my records, the issue appeared soon after I changed to RC (which has organics added), but this is not proof that this salt mix alone encourged the algae bloom since I also started feeding more frequently at around the same time period. This organism can exist in relatively low NO3 and PO4 (my tank tests ~0.5ppm NO3 and PO4 testing returns '0' ppm), but some of this deficit is undoubtedly caused by this algae using these substances. I stir up the sand bed daily to get rid of it for a few hours at least...

I believe Randy is correct regarding nutrients. I have noticed that the bloom will recede somewhat if nutrient input is reduced while still maintaining sufficient nutrient export methods.
 
Thank you Randy [emoji2]

Nano Sapiens, you've hit the nail on the head. Haha just now got done raking my SB so it'll look pretty for a couple hours.
I too am wondering about the RC. I've heard this before from others. However I've been using RC for 6yrs and this is my first time experiencing this issue. Bad batch of salt maybe?
Anyways.....I've ordered a new Reactor. Am wondering if Phosban would work or need I order straight up GFO?
 
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Thank you Randy [emoji2]

Nano Sapiens, you've hit the nail on the head. Haha just now got done raking my SB so it'll look pretty for a couple hours.
I too am wondering about the RC. I've heard this before from others. However I've been using RC for 6yrs and this is my first time experiencing this issue. Bad batch of salt maybe?
Anyways.....I've ordered a new Reactor. Am wondering if Phosban would work or need I order straight up GFO?

I run an old school 'natural' system, so I don't use chemical products. I can reduce in-tank nutrients to a lower level (as I have done in the past), but my coral coloration will also tend to lighten up. Some people like the more 'pastel' look, but I personally prefer very deep, rich coloration and this I get with higher levels of food input. As always, the challenge is to find the 'happy medium' :)
 
I bought the brs 5" reactor and run a mix of rox carbon and gfo in it. I just started using it a week ago so I can't really give much of a review right now. I bought it because I have a bit of cyano growing on my sandbed at least I hope it is cyano.
 
IMO if youre going to run GFO go with rowaphos. Ive tried them all and Ive had the best results with it. Kent phosphate sponge will remove all phosphate in about 12 hours if you want to get rid of real quick like. Go lights out so the algae recedes, when its gone run phosphate sponge until phos hits zero, then remove and turn lights back on. Run gfo from that point. I just had the sort of the same thing on a young tank. Could have been diatoms but it was a little darker and slimier than usual diatoms. Gone now, hasnt returned. Good luck!
 
I have the same brown ugliness for months now. Since I'm getting close to a tank move (upgrade 36G to 120G) I may not take much dramatic action, but I do wish we could get a positive ID. Diatoms don't make sense given tank age, it's not cyano and definitely not dinos - I've had and dealt with all of those. This is different. If I was better at tank logging I might be able to jump on the ReefCrystals blame wagon because I have been using it for a while. I just can't remember if the timing matches up to when the brown uglies started.
 
All I can say is that I didn't have it with IO, MicroLift or DD, but that still doesn't prove that RC is the issue. After I'm done with my half bucket of RC, I'll be back to an IO/RS Blue Bucket mix and then I'll see if the condition improves.
 
I've been dealing with the exact same issue in my 10 gallon. I use RC and been for the 7 months that my tank had been running. I believe my issue arrived when I had a temperature spike in the tank. The only other thing I thought it could have been was switching from T5 to a kessil led and keeping the intensity too high. Either way I have been running a BRS GFO reactor with carbon and GFO for a month now. It is slowly going away. I also added a few more CUC'S to the tank.
 
Is that the only way to deal with this phenomenon? BRS GFO reactor with Carbone?
 
This is quite common, actually. I've had it for the last 9 months or so in a 7 yr old small tank. Harms nothing, but it is a bit unsightly :(

Looking through my records, the issue appeared soon after I changed to RC (which has organics added), but this is not proof that this salt mix alone encourged the algae bloom since I also started feeding more frequently at around the same time period. This organism can exist in relatively low NO3 and PO4 (my tank tests ~0.5ppm NO3 and PO4 testing returns '0' ppm), but some of this deficit is undoubtedly caused by this algae using these substances. I stir up the sand bed daily to get rid of it for a few hours at least...

I believe Randy is correct regarding nutrients. I have noticed that the bloom will recede somewhat if nutrient input is reduced while still maintaining sufficient nutrient export methods.

Which Salt were you using before you Switched to Reef Crystals?
 
I had this same problem till a couple days ago. I took a water sample to my lfs. My phosphates were just a little elevated everything else tested perfect. I purchased a Acurel phosphate reducing pad and added to my filter. It has reduced the brown stuff and my bubble alge is also started to thin out. The bubble alge is the actual reason I had a test done it was driving me bonkers.
 
I also noticed a bloom when switching to rc from Kent. I only used 2 200 gal boxes before I switched to coral pro.
 
Well I'm of a weaker verity of reefer. Tonight I started a ChemiClean treatment. We shall see....

Just as a heads up. Used it worked great, but be aware that youll have a minicycle. I lost a fish. :-( Nd it still came back. Im running just blues for a couple days and built a co2 reactor.
 
I am dealing with cyano. I've tried everything. I am running ROWAPHOS since the first day starting my tank. I have an oversized skimmer. I have been also running Chemipure Elite. I have dosed chemiclean twice. Nothing works. My phosphates are .03 and nitrates are untraceable.
 

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