ATI or Giesemann Hybrid fixture?

[Alfrareef]

Hi guys!

After more than 2 years using led lights I decided to abandoned Led for tank light and get back to T5. And acro grow and coloration has started immediately.

But the fact it’s that led always placed amazing colors in my tank and I want those colors back, so my current option is hybrid.
I’ve gone thru the dyi and dropped it. To much mess...

Since I value aesthetics and quality I’me evaluating ATI and Giesemann hybrid and after reading some papers I can’t decide.
I’m looking at the 1200mm. ATI has 6 T5 bulbs and Giesemann Autora has only 4. Giesemann has UV led and ATI don’t.

So I really would like to ear from who owns them about quality, light intensity, spread, heat, noise and led quality and led light impact.

Can you fellow refers give me some light?
TIA

 

[A. grandis]

No dounbt I would get the ATI with the 6 T5s. That is what matters the most!
The LEDs are supplementary for your "color" (?).
You definitely won't need any UV LED having the T5s.
To tell the truth I wouldn't spend money if you already have a T5 fixture, you could just get some Reef Brite strips with blue LEDs for that " color"(?).
I have ATI 6 bulbs and plenty colors. It's about the combination of bulbs. Perhaps you should try new bulbs and see what will please your eyes? Maybe you won't need to spend any money besides changing the bulbs.
Grandis.

 

[Hitman]

I added 4-T5’s to my 6 AI Sol Blue LEDs and in 48 hours I swear my Birdsnest and Digi have both shot out new branches! I agree with above keep your T5’s you have maybe install new bulbs and add your LEDs back or get reefbright strips. My local coral shop has changed all their frag tanks to Reefbright XHO Actinics with a ATI Blue plus on one side and a ATI Coral Plus on the other side all the way down his 15 foot frag tank and it looks amazing with awesome growth!

 

[Alfrareef]

Tank you guys for helping.
One thing that crossed my mind was to change 2 of the 8 bulbs for those led strips that fit the T5 socket, but I don’t know anyone that uses those.

 

[jwshiver]

I have had the 48" Giesemann Aurora for just over a year. I switched from Radion Gen3's and couldn't be happier. I have no problem recommending this fixture if the ridiculous price isn't an issue for you. For the T5's I'm running two ATI Blue Plus, one Giesemann Super Purple and one Giesemann Azure. I have run Giesemann Actinic Blue and personally didn't notice any difference between them and the ATI Blue Plus. I have found that running the LED white channel for no more than 6 hours total ramping up to your max (I'm currently at 50% and acclimating higher) for 30 minutes (may experiment with longer time) before ramping back down has so far given me the best results for growth and color. Overdoing the LED white channel in my experience seems to bleach or stress out corals, however I'm sure their are other reefers that will disagree with me. I think nutrient level has a lot to do with that. Both blue LED channels are at 100%. Hope this helps.

 

[Alfrareef]

I have had the 48" Giesemann Aurora for just over a year. I switched from Radion Gen3's and couldn't be happier. I have no problem recommending this fixture if the ridiculous price isn't an issue for you. For the T5's I'm running two ATI Blue Plus, one Giesemann Super Purple and one Giesemann Azure. I have run Giesemann Actinic Blue and personally didn't notice any difference between them and the ATI Blue Plus. I have found that running the LED white channel for no more than 6 hours total ramping up to your max (I'm currently at 50% and acclimating higher) for 30 minutes (may experiment with longer time) before ramping back down has so far given me the best results for growth and color. Overdoing the LED white channel in my experience seems to bleach or stress out corals, however I'm sure their are other reefers that will disagree with me. I think nutrient level has a lot to do with that. Both blue LED channels are at 100%. Hope this helps.

Thanks!
I’ve heard that with Giesemann fixtures you could only use Giesemann bulbs but as per you say it’s not true. Thanks for the info.
If I understand correctly you are saying that you can’t put the whites over 50% otherwise you watch bleach consequences. Correct?
Also what do mean when mentioning nutrient levels?

 

[WWIII]

I added 4-T5’s to my 6 AI Sol Blue LEDs and in 48 hours I swear my Birdsnest and Digi have both shot out new branches! I agree with above keep your T5’s you have maybe install new bulbs and add your LEDs back or get reefbright strips. My local coral shop has changed all their frag tanks to Reefbright XHO Actinics with a ATI Blue plus on one side and a ATI Coral Plus on the other side all the way down his 15 foot frag tank and it looks amazing with awesome growth!

I've noticed a lot of the "big guns" are using reef brite xho t5 combo. I'm thinking about adding some to my matrixx ii fixture like this...

 

[Hitman]

I've noticed a lot of the "big guns" are using reef brite xho t5 combo. I'm thinking about adding some to my matrixx ii fixture like this...

The owner of the Lfs I visit swears by that set up. If and when I upgrade to my dream 750 gallon tank I’ll definitely go that way. Heck by the time I have the money for my dream tank that will all be old technology! Lol

 

[jwshiver]

Thanks!
I’ve heard that with Giesemann fixtures you could only use Giesemann bulbs but as per you say it’s not true. Thanks for the info.
If I understand correctly you are saying that you can’t put the whites over 50% otherwise you watch bleach consequences. Correct?
Also what do mean when mentioning nutrient levels?

I have had no problems running the ATI bulbs. IMO a T5 is a T5 no matter what brand.

I was just stating what I am currently running my white LEDs at. Sorry for the confusion. One of the best pieces of advice I got for this hobby was to not run my white LEDs more than 4 hours at maximum whatever the maximum is that works for your tank. You can run whites higher, all the way to 100%. Many hobbyist run their white LEDs at 100% with great success, but I think for the most part they have a higher nutrient tank. I use to run a ULN tank and running white LED's higher than 30% would bleach or stress them out. Unfortunately I have an expensive collection of coral skeletons to prove it. Now I run NO3 between 5-10 and try to keep PO4 between .05 to .08 which would seem high for a SPS dominant tank. For my tank, at that nutrient level, I have found the coral can easily handle more intense PAR by increasing the white LEDs, and my growth and colors are the best I have ever had. I can always tell when my NO3 or PO4 starts to drop because my colors start to fade. Do I have algae? Yes. So does a reef. My Yellow Eye Kole Tang, Magnificent Foxface and Blue Tuxedo Urchin and the occasional dose of Vibrant help keep the algae in check. As a side note I think the Tuxedo Urchin is an underrated algae eating machine. I have a friend who has the Aurora and ramps his whites to 70% for 30 minutes with amazing colors, especially the red colors and runs a "dirty" tank. I am VERY gradually working my way up with the white LEDs to see what results I have. As I'm sure you have read on this forum many times "Every tank is different" I hope you find what works for yours.