ATI T5 fixtures

teamlounge

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
95
Reaction score
56
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
They have a dimmable version. For an 8 bulb 48" its roughly $150 more. Worth it for coral growth (particularly SPS)? Or not that big of a deal to have lights that come on soft and get brighter over time? thx
 
They have a dimmable version. For an 8 bulb 48" its roughly $150 more. Worth it for coral growth (particularly SPS)? Or not that big of a deal to have lights that come on soft and get brighter over time? thx

Personally I wouldn't own anything that wasn't dimmable. I don't have to worry about raising and lowering the fixture, adding egg crate to block light etc. Not to mention I have more realistic increasing/decreasing lighting intensities throughout the photoperiod.
 
For those with the dimmable, how do you deal with the 50hr breakin period on new bulbs? Do you alter your schedule with new bulbs to run them a shorter amount of time at full power? Or use another fixture for break-in?
 
I use a cheap one from Lowes for the break in period for new bulbs.
For those with the dimmable, how do you deal with the 50hr breakin period on new bulbs? Do you alter your schedule with new bulbs to run them a shorter amount of time at full power? Or use another fixture for break-in?
 
Waste of money. You can have 2 bulbs come on an hour earlier than the main lights, and turn off an hour later if you wish. Dimming does nothing to help the corals, and decreases the life of the bulbs. Not to mention the PIA factor of burning in bulbs.
 
If you're going straight T5 I would go dimmable personally. It's worth mentioning you will go through more bulbs this way too as you decrease the life of the T5 bulb with the dimming feature.

Just throwing it out there, but I'm going with a LED/T5 hybrid for this reason. Ramp LED's up in the morning, run T5 midday with LED's and then, ramp LED's down in the evening. It is a bit more upfront cost for the lights, but can be cheaper overtime with less bulb replacement.
 
I have been using the dimmable for over a year and highly do not recommend it. First off, I didn't know about the burn in and didn't do it, then my bulbs were useless after 4 months (I lost numerous acro frags and the larger part of several colonies). Now, I'm not using the dimming function and the bulbs still start going bad at 4 months and are worthless by six. The light also doesn't seem powerful enough to grow high light acros. I have the 36" six bulb over a 38 g (hanging 6" high), so I added an LED at one end and I'm seeing a big upswing in growth (at that end). 25652[/ATTACH]
DSCN1816.JPG
 
I have a dimmable but don't use the feature. Wish I would have saved the money. The light grows acros on the bottom of my tank. Anyone claiming they have acro issues with this light need to look elsewhere.

 
DO you feel it would be enough with 8 bulbs. your corals seem fine and they don't need more than 200 par
 
thx for info guys...going with non dimmable. With 8 bulbs I can certainly have a couple go on later and turn off earlier.

Next Question: What is best 8 bulb mix for ATI fixture. Thinking only 1 white and rest blues (blue plus?). maybe a purple. thoughts?
 
ive had success with 5 b+, 2 c+ and 1 p+. Recently switched the two bulb channel to both actinics. Wish I did that sooner. Current set up is 4 b+, 2 c, and 2 actinic. Much of is it personal preference. What looks good to you. Google tidal gardens I think, they have a good bulb comparison video.

Fwiw, I'm running 8 bulbs 8" off the water line. 500 par water surface, 350 tallest rock structure, 150 bottom end corners. You will like the light. Good luck.
 
I have a 6x39W dimmable and I plan to use the first channel, 2 bulbs, for burn-in new bulb treatment....So i won't dim the first channel. I replace 1 at a time; wait 2 weeks and replace another one until all 6 are replaced
For those with the dimmable, how do you deal with the 50hr breakin period on new bulbs? Do you alter your schedule with new bulbs to run them a shorter amount of time at full power? Or use another fixture for break-in?
 
Dimming is fun but probably has no value aside from aesthetics. There is also the issue mentioned in this thread relative to the "burn in" period. This means you have to either pre-burn your bulbs or change your light schedule every time you get new bulbs. Ask Jason Fox. He doesn't dim, doesn't stage bulbs times. Only ON/OFF all channels. All lights are either ON or OFF that's it. I don't recall how many hours though.
 
I have a dimmable but don't use the feature. Wish I would have saved the money. The light grows acros on the bottom of my tank. Anyone claiming they have acro issues with this light need to look elsewhere.

Really Dave? So you know for certain that nothing is wrong with my light? Did you notice the red planet colony (and the other colonies in my photo)? Clearly my little tank is growing sps (and lps) quite well, except for higher light acros, which colored up but did not grow until I added an LED. ATI has generously offered to replace the controller on my light, even though it is out of warranty. According to ATI, the controller may not be firing the bulbs properly, although they have not encountered that problem with the light before.
 
Id like to chime in for a few things here and give my own opinions of the items stated here
  • Burn in period is critical if not paramount to the success when using the Dimmable feature. Failure to do so will certainly destroy your bulbs in short order.
  • Dimming T5 bulbs does NOT reduce life span, so long as they are properly burned in first.
  • Sunrise/Sunset features are primarily for humans, not corals. While it can make for an exciting and attractive tank that is dynamic through the day, your corals simply don't care.
  • Dimming can be particularly useful for introduction of new corals, or in the event you wish to change intensity without needed (unable) to raise or lower the light.
  • Use caution when using a separate light to conduct your burn in. Be sure it is HO which is as follows: 24w for 24", 39w for 36", 54w for 48" and 80w for 60". Each bulb requires this voltage. Do not use a shop light, strip light or other "generic" light until you confirm proper wattage and HO capabilities. Most workshop lighting is NOT HO. Or, simply buy an HO ballast and end caps and make a burn in station in the garage.
I am happy to help should have any questions or would like to discuss my opinions!

Cheers
 
Waste of money. You can have 2 bulbs come on an hour earlier than the main lights, and turn off an hour later if you wish. Dimming does nothing to help the corals, and decreases the life of the bulbs. Not to mention the PIA factor of burning in bulbs.
Deffinitly not a waste of money. Bulb dimming comes last on the list for actually what you pay for. For performance @teamlounge for an extra 150. You get auto bulb cooling witch keeps you bulbs running at an optimal temperature, you get 1 powercord not 3. Also get a dashboard to program when you want the bulbs to come on and off otherwise it would take up 3 outlets on your apex or spend a little bit of.money on timers. Then you can dim your bulbs if you wish. Now only if they made the dimmable version of the none led PM =)
 
For those with the dimmable, how do you deal with the 50hr breakin period on new bulbs? Do you alter your schedule with new bulbs to run them a shorter amount of time at full power? Or use another fixture for break-in?
I use another ati fixture but at home depot you can buy a 40$ hardwired one
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top