ATI t5 to LED conversion, fun with charts
- Thread starter jrp1588
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I replace led chips on black box led, but when I look at the Vega puck, I dont think it is that easy.
By the way, I agree with the others that you did a major downgrade in terms of PAR and spectrum quality.
By the way, I agree with the others that you did a major downgrade in terms of PAR and spectrum quality.
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jrp1588
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That OP was a little sassy, glad you edited it. Did you watch the video I posted? I took your original post, did some research on how these are soldered on, and found a DIY solution that seems like it would work fine. I'm not going to try this on perfectly good pucks, but I definitely will down the line if one burns out.
As for the lights themselves, Yes, you're right. My old fixture put out more light, and a more complete spectrum. It also heated up my living room by about 5 degrees, made my tank over heat any time the windows were open and the AC was off, and spilled TONS of light into the room. Say what you want, my corals are still growing strong after the switch. Looking at the numbers, they're probably growing a little more slowly, but I think it's a worthy tradeoff for the feature set.
jrp1588
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Burning with curiosity, I went ahead and bought a parts unit with some burnt out LEDs that I plan to experiment on. Using the method in the video I linked above, I'll be replacing 4/5 LEDs on one of the pucks. I'm leaving the Osram Deep Blue, since they don't seem to have an updated version of that.
I'll be upgrading the 2 XP-E Royal blue diodes with XP-G3 Royal Blue, which is actually one generation newer than the current AI lights use. These produce about double the lumens at the same wattage. The XP-E Blue is getting replaced with an XP-E2, which is ~20% more efficient. The Cool White XM-L is getting replaced with an XM-L2, which again is around ~20% more efficient.
All the LEDs cost me ~$17.50 shipped, and the paste solder was $13. I can't find any reefing threads where people claim to have made the swap, but if you look on flashlight forums (where they use these exact same diodes) people make these swaps left and right. I'll update the thread with my results either way it goes.
I'll be upgrading the 2 XP-E Royal blue diodes with XP-G3 Royal Blue, which is actually one generation newer than the current AI lights use. These produce about double the lumens at the same wattage. The XP-E Blue is getting replaced with an XP-E2, which is ~20% more efficient. The Cool White XM-L is getting replaced with an XM-L2, which again is around ~20% more efficient.
All the LEDs cost me ~$17.50 shipped, and the paste solder was $13. I can't find any reefing threads where people claim to have made the swap, but if you look on flashlight forums (where they use these exact same diodes) people make these swaps left and right. I'll update the thread with my results either way it goes.
jrp1588
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Alright, I'm back with results, though they are mixed.
I can definitively say that it's 100% possible to upgrade and replace individual LED chips on the pucks. I will say, I recommend getting in some practice before you throw good pucks on the heat though. Try flowing them off and on and off and on the stars they come on. When you think you're ready, turn the temperature down lower than you think you need, and work up from there SLOWLY. Aside from that, just know that the positive side can be determined by looking at the back of the chip. It'll have an arrow pointing to one side. The side with the arrow is positive, the side it POINTS TO is negative.
Also, contrary to what I say in the previous post, the whites AREN'T XM-L chips on this particular unit. THe contact patch on the XM-L2 chip is too big. Use an XP-G3 or XP-E2 here instead. It must have been a version change.
Anyway, I let my heat get too high on the puck I tested, and delaminated my board a bit, which I imagine ruins it's ability to transfer heat properly. It still lights up though, and I think I've got my temperature control down pat. I plan on ordering more LEDs to try on the rest of my test unit's pucks. Anyway, here are some pictures.
Here is the before shot. I replaced the burnt out LED, one of the Royal blues, and the center white with one of the old royal blues after I realized I'd ruined that section.
In case you're unfamiliar with what these look like opened up.
The puck and parts
I've got an entirely blue puck now. 1 new xp-g2 royal, 1 xp-e2 blue, and one old xp-e royal that I swapped onto the bubbled white position to see if it still worked
Here it is closed back up. I've got it running in the garage to test it currently.
I can definitively say that it's 100% possible to upgrade and replace individual LED chips on the pucks. I will say, I recommend getting in some practice before you throw good pucks on the heat though. Try flowing them off and on and off and on the stars they come on. When you think you're ready, turn the temperature down lower than you think you need, and work up from there SLOWLY. Aside from that, just know that the positive side can be determined by looking at the back of the chip. It'll have an arrow pointing to one side. The side with the arrow is positive, the side it POINTS TO is negative.
Also, contrary to what I say in the previous post, the whites AREN'T XM-L chips on this particular unit. THe contact patch on the XM-L2 chip is too big. Use an XP-G3 or XP-E2 here instead. It must have been a version change.
Anyway, I let my heat get too high on the puck I tested, and delaminated my board a bit, which I imagine ruins it's ability to transfer heat properly. It still lights up though, and I think I've got my temperature control down pat. I plan on ordering more LEDs to try on the rest of my test unit's pucks. Anyway, here are some pictures.
Here is the before shot. I replaced the burnt out LED, one of the Royal blues, and the center white with one of the old royal blues after I realized I'd ruined that section.
In case you're unfamiliar with what these look like opened up.
The puck and parts
I've got an entirely blue puck now. 1 new xp-g2 royal, 1 xp-e2 blue, and one old xp-e royal that I swapped onto the bubbled white position to see if it still worked
Here it is closed back up. I've got it running in the garage to test it currently.
