ATK: this is getting old

[Doctorgori]

I’m frustrated ...
this thing seems to work for 2 weeks then does this thing where it doesn’t fill ... no errors, or clue why
my OTHER ATK has the same issue but it keeps going offline only to re-emerge if reconnected and always with a different aquabus address
....and thats when things are going good

I’ve already did the reconnected, removed, rename, et et ...all new opticals also ...any help appreciated

 

[WIReefer]

@SuncrestReef

 

[Crashnt24]

I’m frustrated ...
this thing seems to work for 2 weeks then does this thing where it doesn’t fill ... no errors, or clue why
my OTHER ATK has the same issue but it keeps going offline only to re-emerge if reconnected and always with a different aquabus address
....and thats when things are going good

I’ve already did the reconnected, removed, rename, et et ...all new opticals also ...any help appreciated

Same with mine recently. I wonder if they released a update that broke the Ato portion of the controller.

 

[Matt1997]

Did your reservoir go empty and the pump kicked into off?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Same here. Gave up a long time ago

 

[Biglew11]

can't help with the going offline issue, but if my optical sensor gets dirty it won't fill, i have to clean mine once a week, quick scrub with a toothbrush right in the sump gets it working again.

 

[anthonygf]

Why not run a 1/8 line direct from RO/DI system to a float valve in the sump? That is how I have mine set up and works flawless for four years now. You will need a high water level sensor in the sump in case the float valve gets broken or stuck open, will close a separate valve in the 1/8 line to prevent overflow.

 

[Biglew11]

Why not run a 1/8 line direct from RO/DI system to a float valve in the sump? That is how I have mine set up and works flawless for four years now. You will need a high water level sensor in the sump in case the float valve gets broken or stuck open, will close a separate valve in the 1/8 line to prevent overflow.

This will work but short cycling an rodi unit with just a float valve in this way will cause tds creep on the ro membrane leading to higher di consumption.

 

[SuncrestReef]

If the FMM module reports Disconnected or randomly shows up as a different AquaBus address, it’s possible your AquaBus cable or AquaBus ports are corroded. Carefully examine each end of the cable and each port. Try a different AquaBus cable if you have one, and/or try plugging into a different AquaBus port.

 

[Doctorgori]

Did your reservoir go empty and the pump kicked into off?

No, not this time...thats happened to me so often I’ve learned my lesson

can't help with the going offline issue, but if my optical sensor gets dirty it won't fill, i have to clean mine once a week, quick scrub with a toothbrush right in the sump gets it working again.

...yes, I know; argh ..Another lesson: bought a German car, but its the parts that getcha .... ATK $200, optical sensors: $60ea per year

Why not run a 1/8 line direct from RO/DI system to a float valve in the sump? That is how I have mine set up and works flawless for four years now. You will need a high water level sensor in the sump in case the float valve gets broken or stuck open, will close a separate valve in the 1/8 line to prevent overflow.

This will work but short cycling an rodi unit with just a float valve in this way will cause tds creep on the ro membrane leading to higher di consumption.

As the crow flies my tank is a closet away from the RO/DI. I go back and forth on that. I do have a vinyl floor

If the FMM module reports Disconnected or randomly shows up as a different AquaBus address, it’s possible your AquaBus cable or AquaBus ports are corroded. Carefully examine each end of the cable and each port. Try a different AquaBus cable if you have one, and/or try plugging into a different AquaBus port.

Hmmm ... I’ve had a rash of issues with cables, esp. from Amazon.
Some say “Active” and work when they shouldn’t and some don’t say “Active” and don’t work. No right angle connectors work, nor do some of the 30ft + cables (even w/o repeaters) .
I dunno, but yeah the thing is acting weird and is touchy with cheapo imported electronic gear.
I’m gonna try as suggested in a few

 

[anthonygf]

This will work but short cycling an rodi unit with just a float valve in this way will cause tds creep on the ro membrane leading to higher di consumption.

I have 2 pressurized water storage tanks, I don't care about using up di resin, mine lasts for several months. I have 3 stage DI resin, cation-part 1, anion-part 2 and mixed bed resin. So far in 2 years I replaced anion twice, cation close to exhaustion, and the mixed bed once. If you just use mixed bed resin only yes you will have to replace often. I do 5 gallon water change weekly on a 60 gallon system.

 

[Biglew11]

I have 2 pressurized water storage tanks, I don't care about using up di resin, mine lasts for several months. I have 3 stage DI resin, cation-part 1, anion-part 2 and mixed bed resin. So far in 2 years I replaced anion twice, cation close to exhaustion, and the mixed bed once. If you just use mixed bed resin only yes you will have to replace often. I do 5 gallon water change weekly on a 60 gallon system.

if you're making larger quantities at a time the tds creep won't make as big an impact, you eventually get neer 0tds water feeding the di. if you only make a couple gallons at a time then you don't purge this tds creep and your only feeding high tds water through the di.

 

[anthonygf]

if you're making larger quantities at a time the tds creep won't make as big an impact, you eventually get neer 0tds water feeding the di. if you only make a couple gallons at a time then you don't purge this tds creep and your only feeding high tds water through the di.

True. I have a flush valve and try to flush the 2 membranes every week.

 

[Biglew11]

i have a bypass valve on mine and send the first five minutes of product water down the drain before i let it go through the di. in the first 5 minutes the tds out of the membrane goes from about 120 down to 6.

 

[anthonygf]

True. I have a flush valve and try to flush the 2 membranes every week.

i have a bypass valve on mine and send the first five minutes of product water down the drain before i let it go through the di. in the first 5 minutes the tds out of the membrane goes from about 120 down to 6.

WOW! My TDS never gets that hi.

 

[shakygator]

This will work but short cycling an rodi unit with just a float valve in this way will cause tds creep on the ro membrane leading to higher di consumption.

This is also super risky IMO. If your float valve fails, due to salt creep or whatever, then you risk diluting your tank with RODI. I have used a float valve for years to keep my RODI container full, but I manually fill the ATO from there so the tank can't possibly be diluted by a failure (worst case it floods my fish room - which is better than a tank crash IMO).

 

[anthonygf]

This is also super risky IMO. If your float valve fails, due to salt creep or whatever, then you risk diluting your tank with RODI. I have used a float valve for years to keep my RODI container full, but I manually fill the ATO from there so the tank can't possibly be diluted by a failure (worst case it floods my fish room - which is better than a tank crash IMO).

That is true also, but my high water sensor is only 1 inch from actual level that when adding a gallon or two won't dilute it to dangerous levels.

 

[anthonygf]

This is also super risky IMO. If your float valve fails, due to salt creep or whatever, then you risk diluting your tank with RODI. I have used a float valve for years to keep my RODI container full, but I manually fill the ATO from there so the tank can't possibly be diluted by a failure (worst case it floods my fish room - which is better than a tank crash IMO).

Isn't it possible for the ATO to malfunction and pump all top off water into sump?

 

[Mical]

When was the last time you replaced sensors? The Version 2 sensors are better, I had same issues on both of my tanks but since updating sensors and a quick brush with toothbrush weekly when I'm testing tanks, they've worked flawlessly.

 

[TvanB1]

I had a ton if issues with my ATK gen 1 for a long time.
New sensors, updating all modules, and replacing the pump with a solenoid seemed to fix the issues.
I also had it where my apex would randomly reassign my probes to different outlets. I think updating my module fixed that.