ATO and Water Changes

Scott Mayberry

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Hi there,

Not really new to reefs and fish, but am new to a lot of the "make life easier" technology stuff. On my recent setup(s), I have added some automatic monitoring, and on my 90 an APEX unit. I built a water changing station with an RO unit and 2 - 55 gal plastic (nylon) drums. I plan to run a direct RO line from the RO unit directly to the sump on the 90 gal using a Neptune optical float switch. If I should ever reach high level, I will activate an electrical inline cut off switch. No, I do not plan to incorporate automatic water changes at this time (1. because in my world that is getting a bit too lazy; 2. I like to remove detritus when performing water changes in my bare bottoms as well as my sand bottom aquariums)

My curiosity really has very little to do with the over all system, connection, or programming, which seem very straight forward; however, basic tank maintenance seems to warrant in my mind some discussion. BLUF: When performing water changes, I can never get the fill line exact - the dynamics of adding water from a fill station via a pump and the sump pump pumping water to the tank always results in the water being a bit too high, or a bit low, and yes, on occasion, just right. When performing manual top offs no big issue - adjust to salinity.

So , question to those who either do auto water changes or auto top offs (using float (level sensing)), what are you doing to keep your levels "just right". My assumption would be to slightly adjust the float height at each water change, but am always looking for the better mouse trap??????

Thx!
Scott

5 different tanks to many different equipment packages to list for this discussion
 
i have a 32 gal ro storage and a 32 gal saltwater mixing /storage drum. i use 5 gal buckets for ATO reservoirs. I run my ATO add hose to the skimmer section of the sump and have the float in the return section of the sump. i have pieces of tape on the glass of the return section marking the ATO on and off levels. when i do water changes i turn off the return pump and the ATO system. once the DT drains down, I remove water from the skimmer and return sections of my sump. then i just add water from the Saltwater storage to the sump to bring the level up to where the return pump can run. I then turn on the return pump. once the overflow has resumed and the siphon has stabilized i just add water to the sump until i am at my filled line on the return section. If you are vacuuming the DT: 1. turn off the ATO 2. mark the sump level 3. turn off the return 4. vacuum 5. turn on the return while adding SW to the sump. depending on how much you removed and the relative feed rates of your return and SW make up pumps you may have to cycle the return pump rather than losing prime or sucking air. 6. add SW until you are at the operating mark. 7. turn your ATO back on. hope this helps.
 
Thank you. Very similar to what I am doing. The off/on tape idea, I will incorporate. Do you find yourself ever having to adjust float level to compensate for the slight tank level variations, or ignore the 0.3 to 0.4 ppm salinity variant?
 
Thank you. Very similar to what I am doing. The off/on tape idea, I will incorporate. Do you find yourself ever having to adjust float level to compensate for the slight tank level variations, or ignore the 0.3 to 0.4 ppm salinity variant?
the only thing i have done is to compensate, if the salinity goes down due to emptying the skimmer cup, by adding SW instead of waiting for the ATO to add RODI.
 
Would anyone know if the below water is okay to use for a water change? I can’t seem to find RODI water for purchase here in Sydney.

 
the spec says less than 1 tds pH 6 i would say that it is usable. distilling is a purification method that might introduce metals if done improperly i would use it. but i would also search this site for information. there are a lot of others that have asked the same question and gotten good replies.
 

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