ATO/Flow adjustment

[qstorm]

I wanted to know if its just me or do you have to constantly adjust the flow of your drain pipe and return pump?

Secondly I did not install my ato as yet but i confused/concern about flooding. When I top off with buckets I get the water level to where I would like it to be in my tank, but eventually its either draining to the sump too fast or pumping up too fast or too slow...what am I doing wrong.

Which brings me to my ato. If I top off via my ro di system, ( no float valve etc ) my sump level stay the same but the display fill up. But in my mind i want my return sump chamber to be at a certain level that never happens....
So my concern is if I install this ato, it will take 3 days for the float switch to drop , then it fills up but the water in the return chamber never rises until I re adjust my drain calves..what am I doing wrong.

 

[ndrwater]

1st off, IMO, there is zero reason to choke the overflow. You can control noise etc with the return pump. Faster, slower, whatever. Choking the overflow is asking for problems.
2nd, the level in the sump should be adequate to keep the return pump submerged with a bit of room for error.
3rd, the sump should be able to handle the overflow from the tank when the return pump is off. This includes what could potentially be drained from the return line creating a syphon. Adding a one way valve on the return can help with this. Effective, but not always reliable.
As for the at, and level it's set at, it depends on where your water level is set above the return pump. You don't want the water level to expose the return, but at the same time, you need to allow for the water draining into the sump with the pump off
Lastly, I would NOT recommend having your RODI plumbed directly into the ATO/sump without a float switch or something similar. That is just asking for disaster

 

[qstorm]

Please explain what choking the over flow. I have two full syphon 1" in drain..they are barely open. ...I would love to have them fully open or the main one going into my roller matt open but I never couod get that or my roller matt just waste paper.
My return pump is a waveline dc6000. Do i need to upgrade?

I dont plan on permanently plumbing my ro system to the sumo,just using it as an example that if the water level goes down in the sump and I turn it on, I never see the water level rise in the sump to the mark where u want it to, but the display rises. I have to adjust my return pump ..with that said I'm trying to figure iut out when/how I would it balance to get back to the original height and shut off before over flowing my display and via the float switch and not the timer

 

[ndrwater]

I would have the drain lines fully open. The roller mat shouldn't clog just because of flow. Even if, I would choke, or turn down the return if necessary.
The control of the water level, at least for initial setup, should be decided by your return pump, not the overflow, or you end up having the problem that you are having.. the display level being too high..
As for the ATO, it should only be set after you have the display/drain/return sorted.
Not having a way to physically shut off the ATO, for example float switch, is like I said before, asking for disaster. Not only for overflowing the sump, but potentially the display as well.

 

[Dom]

I wanted to know if its just me or do you have to constantly adjust the flow of your drain pipe and return pump?

Secondly I did not install my ato as yet but i confused/concern about flooding. When I top off with buckets I get the water level to where I would like it to be in my tank, but eventually its either draining to the sump too fast or pumping up too fast or too slow...what am I doing wrong.

Which brings me to my ato. If I top off via my ro di system, ( no float valve etc ) my sump level stay the same but the display fill up. But in my mind i want my return sump chamber to be at a certain level that never happens....
So my concern is if I install this ato, it will take 3 days for the float switch to drop , then it fills up but the water in the return chamber never rises until I re adjust my drain calves..what am I doing wrong.

I feel flow rates should be adjusted at the return, and never restricted out of the tank. Can you post some photos of your plumbing?

 

[qstorm]

1st off, IMO, there is zero reason to choke the overflow. You can control noise etc with the return pump. Faster, slower, whatever. Choking the overflow is asking for problems.
2nd, the level in the sump should be adequate to keep the return pump submerged with a bit of room for error.
3rd, the sump should be able to handle the overflow from the tank when the return pump is off. This includes what could potentially be drained from the return line creating a syphon. Adding a one way valve on the return can help with this. Effective, but not always reliable.
As for the at, and level it's set at, it depends on where your water level is set above the return pump. You don't want the water level to expose the return, but at the same time, you need to allow for the water draining into the sump with the pump off
Lastly, I would NOT recommend having your RODI plumbed directly into the ATO/sump without a float switch or something similar. That is just asking for disaster

I think i figured out the issue with the plumbing. The level of the water in one of the standpipe was too high...so i added the back the T fitting and made the hole in the cap a little bigger, then all the water from the roller mat went down to the normal level and i am able to open the gate valve fully. I have to do the same on the secondary this weekend. The valve is about 95% open, but gurgles if fully open. I will change the fitting and hopefully get it at the same height of the other side. Once that is done, i will test/simulate the ato with the ro di line to see if the water level in the sump raises to the level i wanted it with out any spills before i actually install the ATO.

Thank you.

 

[Dom]

Wow... you've got a lot going on there.

 

[qstorm]

I would have the drain lines fully open. The roller mat shouldn't clog just because of flow. Even if, I would choke, or turn down the return if necessary.
The control of the water level, at least for initial setup, should be decided by your return pump, not the overflow, or you end up having the problem that you are having.. the display level being too high..
As for the ATO, it should only be set after you have the display/drain/return sorted.
Not having a way to physically shut off the ATO, for example float switch, is like I said before, asking for disaster. Not only for overflowing the sump, but potentially the display as well.

So I have both drains fully open, but know I have my return pump on the lowest settings and the turnover rate is so slow.....the water comes out faster on the return closer to the pump and barely flows on the other side...I notice if I cover the hole on the the top of the cap it flows super faster , so what should i do. Do I replace the cap with a smaller hole or choke the secondary a little to increase the return

 

[ndrwater]

So I have both drains fully open, but know I have my return pump on the lowest settings and the turnover rate is so slow.....the water comes out faster on the return closer to the pump and barely flows on the other side...I notice if I cover the hole on the the top of the cap it flows super faster , so what should i do. Do I replace the cap with a smaller hole or choke the secondary a little to increase the return

Flow through the sump and main filtration doesn't need to be fast at all. Actually, the slower the better. More time for things like the skimmer and any biological, chemical or whatever filtration to do their thing. The best answer in our tanks today is to handle flow within the tank with things like powerheads, gyres and the like.
If you have the main return line split above the pump going to two separate returns to the tank, you could choke one down with a gate or ball valve to even the flow between the two returns. It's not 100% necessary, but if you wanted even flow to both returns, that is what I would do.

 

[ChrisAndJulie2012]

Hey qstorm, i know its an old thread, but i have my automtop off in the chamber where you return pump is. I have the exact trigger sump you do it looks. I have never had any issues with water lvl once I found that sweet spot. Hope you figured it out.

Happy Reefing