ATO pump?

Mandrew · Feb 10, 2017

I'm looking at building a float switch activated ATO for my current 29g build. Looking for something cheap but affective for an auto top off. First thoughts were aqua lifter, might not have enough head pressure, or a mj1200, might add water too quickly and not steadily. Let me know your thoughts and ideas please!

saltyfilmfolks · Feb 10, 2017

All ato pretty much run like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Au...hash=item41bc7fb431:m:mgC8FV0RtcxGfCsBVjUmTPA

Some ato Diy guides.
https://www.google.com/search?q=diy...X&ved=0ahUKEwi9vqK-h4bSAhXoiFQKHWsEBG0QsAQIIA

You can diy AC pumps similarly but I don't recommend it.

Mandrew · Feb 10, 2017

I was thinking about following the king of DIY for the design and then finding a good pump to go from a 5g bucket to the top of my tank

cromag27 · Feb 14, 2017

The last pump you'll ever need.....

http://spectrapure.com/DOSING-TOP-OFF/LITERMETER-DOSING-SYSTEMS/Basic-LiterMeter-Dosing-Pump

redfishbluefish · Feb 14, 2017

It's difficult suggesting pumps not knowing head loss.....However, if you go the MJ route, do not buy a Marineland MJ. Buy the Cobalt Aquatics MJ. The Cobalt is the original Italian made pumps, and are quality pumps. Also, be aware that if you feel the MJ1200 would be too much, consider some of the smaller pumps.....ie Cobalt MJ400.

As far as the rest of the ATO, I did a DIY on the float switch side HERE, if you're interested.

cromag27 · Feb 14, 2017

redfishbluefish said:
It's difficult suggesting pumps not knowing head loss.....However, if you go the MJ route, do not buy a Marineland MJ. Buy the Cobalt Aquatics MJ. The Cobalt is the original Italian made pumps, and are quality pumps. Also, be aware that if you feel the MJ1200 would be too much, consider some of the smaller pumps.....ie Cobalt MJ400.

As far as the rest of the ATO, I did a DIY on the float switch side HERE, if you're interested.

That's why I love peristaltic pumps. don't have to worry about head loss or back siphon.

Engloid · Feb 19, 2017

I use the house water pressure to push through the RODI unit and then into the sump. I just plumbed a good solenoid valve in my house plumbing, and plugged it into my ATO unit.

redfishbluefish · Feb 19, 2017

Engloid said:
I use the house water pressure to push through the RODI unit and then into the sump. I just plumbed a good solenoid valve in my house plumbing, and plugged it into my ATO unit.

I would not recommend this setup for two reasons.

1. TDS breakthrough on startup: Every time your RO/DI shuts off, some dissolved solids "break through" the membrane causing high TDS on startup. With the ATO demanding water every 15 - 30 minutes, your RO/DI is starting once again, with that breakthrough TDS taken out by you DI. You will notice that you'll go through DI resin fairly quickly. My RO shoots up to the 50's in TDS on startup. I actually divert the first couple minutes of startup water to waste using a valve.

2. Maybe I'm paranoid, but that solenoid is going to eventually fail, and when it does, that's an unlimited amount of water that will continue to run, until you discover it. Too risky for me.

Engloid · Feb 19, 2017

redfishbluefish said:
I would not recommend this setup for two reasons.

1. TDS breakthrough on startup: Every time your RO/DI shuts off, some dissolved solids "break through" the membrane causing high TDS on startup. With the ATO demanding water every 15 - 30 minutes, your RO/DI is starting once again, with that breakthrough TDS taken out by you DI. You will notice that you'll go through DI resin fairly quickly. My RO shoots up to the 50's in TDS on startup. I actually divert the first couple minutes of startup water to waste using a valve.

2. Maybe I'm paranoid, but that solenoid is going to eventually fail, and when it does, that's an unlimited amount of water that will continue to run, until you discover it. Too risky for me.

I don't have high tds on startup. Keep in mind that I don't have pressure in the RO unit when it's off. I have a total of about 250 gallons of water, so even if I had a small amount of higher tds, it wouldn't amount to a lot once diluted by the rest.

As for the safety.... the solenoid only gets power for 15 minutes a day. It's a heavy duty industrial solenoid that will cost over $100 by itself. It's made to run open or closed for hours, weeks, or even months at a time. I have run like this for years and not one time had a problem.

I also have my sump plumbed in such that it will never overflow. It has a standpipe that will drain to the basement sump pump, where it is then pumped outside the house.

Also keep in mind that most people just turn their RO on manually and go cut it off later...without even putting a timer on it. My setup is MUCH less vulnerable than that. The only water problems I have had were caused by using an external overflow (with U pipe over top), or a tank breaking. I now have my setup plumbed where there is no possible way it will overflow anywhere inside the house.

ReeferBob · Feb 20, 2017

redfishbluefish said:
I would not recommend this setup for two reasons.

1. TDS breakthrough on startup: Every time your RO/DI shuts off, some dissolved solids "break through" the membrane causing high TDS on startup. With the ATO demanding water every 15 - 30 minutes, your RO/DI is starting once again, with that breakthrough TDS taken out by you DI. You will notice that you'll go through DI resin fairly quickly. My RO shoots up to the 50's in TDS on startup. I actually divert the first couple minutes of startup water to waste using a valve.

2. Maybe I'm paranoid, but that solenoid is going to eventually fail, and when it does, that's an unlimited amount of water that will continue to run, until you discover it. Too risky for me.

3. You are short-cycling the RO membrane which will lead to premature failure.

These should run when the RO reservoir is empty and fill it, they are not designed to be used as an ATO topoff mechanism.

Ocelaris · Feb 20, 2017

I have a 20 gallon container about 30 feet away, and a diaphragm pump hooked up to it with a spliced USB to my apex eb4 which pumps the water down a 1/4" poly tube to the sump. Diaphragm pumps can't handle Kalkwasser, but was cheaper than the spectrapure (which will be what I replace it with).

reeferfoxx · Feb 20, 2017

I use the Avast Peristaltic ato pump. Very quiet. Love it!

Mandrew · Feb 21, 2017

Thanks everyone, I stopped getting notifications or else I would have replied! The head pressure is my biggest issue because I don't think a smaller MJ pump would have enough height to it, but the MJ1200 might be too much.

HolisticBear · Feb 21, 2017

reeferfoxx said:
I use the Avast Peristaltic ato pump. Very quiet. Love it!

From Avast "Our pump is capable of delivering water at up to 20 feet of head pressure". I recently purchased this pump, it's quiet, but a bit louder than I expected given everyone reports it's super quiet.

No complaints, happy with the purchase. The zero chance of back siphon was important to me. I don't know the exact flow rate, but it's low. Fine for my needs.

Mandrew · Feb 21, 2017

Is the avast pump cheap?

Ocelaris · Feb 21, 2017

They sell a peristaltic pump and a diaphragm pump. The diaphragm pump has higher pressure and flow, but won't tolerate Kalk. The peristaltic pump is better for measured amounts. They're both relatively inexpensive. I went with the Avast diaphragm pump for its pressure and flow.

Fin · Feb 21, 2017

Mandrew said:
Is the avast pump cheap?

About $109. I will be using one for my ATO and one to feed a calcium reactor.

reeferfoxx · Feb 22, 2017

MrMichael said:
From Avast "Our pump is capable of delivering water at up to 20 feet of head pressure". I recently purchased this pump, it's quiet, but a bit louder than I expected given everyone reports it's super quiet.

No complaints, happy with the purchase. The zero chance of back siphon was important to me. I don't know the exact flow rate, but it's low. Fine for my needs.

In comparison to a DIY 12v peristaltic pump or Jebao dosing pump, i found to have a smoother quieter operation. Not silent.