ATO. What do you used? Looking for recommendations!

[minus9]

Stay away from the ATK, it’s one of the worst designs for an ATO out there, especially compared to the Tunze. Just buy the new updated version of the osmolator and enjoy your tank. I’m still using mine (older version), which is 8 years old now. I just replaced the optical sensor to give it another 8 years + of service and it only cost me $38. The Tunze is the gold standard for a reason.

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

Tunze won’t work if your reservoir is in the basement the pumps not strong enough the newest version is weaker than the 3155 and has no option to control an external pump At least the 3155 is easy enough to modify and use another better pump

 

[minus9]

Tunze won’t work if your reservoir is in the basement the pumps not strong enough the newest version is weaker than the 3155 and has no option to control an external pump At least the 3155 is easy enough to modify and use another better pump

I don’t think the OP has this issue or concern with the reservoir in the basement, so not relevant here. But if someone has a reservoir that requires that setup, then a peristaltic pump would be my choice.
I’m using the Tunze on my nano system, but I’m still using a gravity fed system on my 90g, which is the easiest set up and requires no fancy gear.

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

Either way why pay the price of Tunze and not get a peristaltic pump when you can get one around the same money , im Just not seeing the value in the newest Tunze ato. It seems to be a downgrade from the 3155 In all respects. And I have several 3155sand several of their stream pumps . Like you have had to replace the optical sensors and also burned up thier ato pumps , meanwhile my simple float switches from the 90s still function.

 

[sugar]

I had been using the reef prism ATO with good results until it failed. I would say it was good for about a year before it did. I had liked the form factor since I couldn’t find another micro in stock anywhere. And like you said, the price!? I think I paid $69 US for the prism.

I was looking at that one too!! Darn

 

[sugar]

I used to run the atk but I had a few problems with it that required me to reach out to Neptune support, they were great. they had to create a couple virtual outlets for me because the pmup wasn't responding properly. worked well for a while but ultimately failed me again so back to the tunze I went. I love my apex and all the features but when something fails that I rely on like the ATO not so great.

I knew there had to be some issues!! J haven't heard too many but know they are out there!! Sounds like Tunze is backed the most ‍!

 

[sugar]

I've been running some form of Tunze ATO's since....... 2000ish. I can't recall exactly when, but it's the only ATO I've ever run. As mentioned, the 3155 has a double fail safe - one being the second float and the other being a 10 minute timer. I have two 3155s in use, one is at least 10 years old and still works perfectly.

If you have an Apex and an FMM, you could add a third backup level sensor that turns off the Tunze outlet if it's breached. It's what I do. I'm confident the Apex FMM will be less reliable than any form of a Tunze ATO.

Where I openly admit I'm a Tunze fanboy (in general), and as much as I love the core functionality of my Apex, I do believe that Neptune add-on gear is mostly .... sub par. The MXM, LLS, EB832's, Flow Sensor, COR Pumps (I can keep going ) have all proven to flat out not work or very have high failure rates. Based on my personal experiences, I would absolutely not use the ATK as my primary ATO.

Very good info! This is starting to make me change my mind. I'll have to reconsider the Tunze (and add on another safety with a level sensor like you said).

 

[Derrick0580]

Never had and issue with my tunze 3155, reef breeder prism, or an auto aqua ato, but had 2 tunze nanos fail on me, one stuck on and flooded my fluval evo and the other just stopped working all together.

 

[tsharpe291]

I knew there had to be some issues!! J haven't heard too many but know they are out there!! Sounds like Tunze is backed the most ‍!

obviously nothing is perfect, just sharing my experiences.

 

[sugar]

Tough decisions!

I need to go back and reconsider my options. Sounds like I am back to AutoAqua vs. Tunze 3155 vs. ATK. I didn't think the crowd would be SO in favor of the Tunze but it's speaking to me!

 

[Paul B]

My tank is downstairs in my Man cave so you don't see any of this. I use a 7 gallon bucket hanging from the ceiling that gets filled from the RO/DI. When it's full, there is a float in there that is connected to a mercury switch I took from an antique thermostat. It turns off the electric solenoid valve to stop the water from going into the reverse osmosis unit.

The water flows into my tank using gravity which never fails. It is controlled by a float valve on my tank. Very little to go wrong and very cheap. It has been working for decades like this.

I like building things rather than buying them because I know if I build it, it will keep working.

 

[sugar]

My tank is downstairs in my Man cave so you don't see any of this. I use a 7 gallon bucket hanging from the ceiling that gets filled from the RO/DI. When it's full, there is a float in there that is connected to a mercury switch I took from an antique thermostat. It turns off the electric solenoid valve to stop the water from going into the reverse osmosis unit.

The water flows into my tank using gravity which never fails. It is controlled by a float valve on my tank. Very little to go wrong and very cheap. It has been working for decades like this.

I like building things rather than buying them because I know if I build it, it will keep working.

That is incredible!!! If only I had the space So simple (excellent DIY), but so effective. This is the way!

 

[slythy]

I just wrote code for my Apex to do it. you dont need anything fancy. I use 2 float valves in the tank at the same level. if they are both low for x time then fill until 1 goes high. then I have 1 in my ATO res to tell me when its empty so the pump doesnt keep running. Its been operating flawlessly for the last 10 years lol

 

[Daftendire]

The water flows into my tank using gravity which never fails. It is controlled by a float valve on my tank. Very little to go wrong and very cheap. It has been working for decades like this.

I like building things rather than buying them because I know if I build it, it will keep working.

Have you ever had a float valve fail? Im assuming thats what your using from the bucket to the tank? Ive been using a eshopps float valve kit for 2 years and ive been wondering what kind of lifespan it has.

 

[mtraylor]

Since you have apex. I will share what I use. I have i/o break out box on my apex that has float switches connected to it in the sump. 1 to control the water level in sump. The other is a backup in case the firstt float fails. If the second float is engaged, it cuts everything off and emails me to let me know the first float switch had an isue and it was used as fallback and I need to address problem.

I have ro/di unit connected to industrial solenoid that is used to control water level in aquarium.

Been running aquarium like this for around 20years and never had an issue with leaks overflows etc. Yes this method does use more resin in ro/di with more frequent on/off. I have 2 chambers and it lasts long enough for me.

I actually run my 40 gallon frag tank the same way. I have ro/ di going directly to 2.5 gallon ato resivior tank for my 10gallon nano. Only reason for this was I thought it may need water more often with such little volume.

 

[sugar]

Since you have apex. I will share what I use. I have i/o break out box on my apex that has float switches connected to it in the sump. 1 to control the water level in sump. The other is a backup in case the firstt float fails. If the second float is engaged, it cuts everything off and emails me to let me know the first float switch had an isue and it was used as fallback and I need to address problem.

I have ro/di unit connected to industrial solenoid that is used to control water level in aquarium.

Been running aquarium like this for around 20years and never had an issue with leaks overflows etc. Yes this method does use more resin in ro/di with more frequent on/off. I have 2 chambers and it lasts long enough for me.

I actually run my 40 gallon frag tank the same way. I have ro/ di going directly to 2.5 gallon ato resivior tank for my 10gallon nano. Only reason for this was I thought it may need water more often with such little volume.

This is really cool. I'm an instrumentation tech so I LOVE the crossover to the hobby!!

 

[slythy]

I have ro/di unit connected to industrial solenoid that is used to control water level in aquarium.

What solenoid are you using? I have been wanting to add this to my system but havent trusted anything yet lol.

 

[Paul B]

Have you ever had a float valve fail?

No. I have been using them for almost the entire 50 years my tank has been running. The water going into the tank through the float valve is clean so nothing to clog it. I don't have a sump so it is right on my tank rim.

I'm an instrumentation tech so I LOVE the crossover to the hobby!!

So I'm sure you understand how my ATO works. Very simple

If the thing did fail, the water enters my tank very slowly through a 1/4" tube so it would take some time to overflow. I also buillt a "leak detector" that is under the tank from a GFCI that will shut off the water in case of a flood.

 

[apb03]

I currently own:

Neptune ATK v2
IM Hydrofill
Tunze 3152 and 3155

Neptune ATK - This was my first ATO as I originally intended to use it with an Apex. Unfortunately, the unit did not last long enough for me to try out those features. I used it standalone and unfortunately, the PMUP died within 3 months. This is the unit with the most features, however, the build quality is atrocious. Do not recommend it.

IM Hydrofill - This is an intriguing unit due to its simplicity. I like that you can use any pump you choose as all it does is power on an AC plug attached to it when water runs low. This is a versatile option that allows for setups that are not typical and I still use it for my hospital tank using an old Sicce Silent 1.0 I had lying around. I did not like the weak magnets used for the electronic probes as it's easy to knock them off but it's a minor issue. Setup is easy, but no remote monitoring options.

Tunze - The gold standard ATO and I regret not buying sooner. The main downside is the less-than-stellar pump that comes with the kit, but the Turbelle addon pump makes all the difference for me as I needed 10ft head height and 30ft total. I like how easy it was to set up and connect an extension wire. This unit is expensive and has no remote monitoring capability leaving me wanting more at this price point. If you are on a budget, the Tunze seems a bit excessive. The 3152 does come at a lower price point but is not suitable for larger setups.

 

[Midrats]

Tunze Osmolators have been working for me and hundreds of clients tanks since the Nineties. The Nano Osmolator I have had problems with, but none ever with it's big brother. I use a Litermeter on my current tank, not the ATO version. I just dial in the evaporation, no floats or sensors to fail, no need to turn it off during maintenance, and it can pump long distances. Only a couple of seasonal adjustments are required. It doses limewater every 9.6 minutes.