Auto Top off and RO/DI Units

The carbon does not remove the ammonia, it helps break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia so it is more easily removed by the membrane and DI.
http://www.wqa.org/pdf/TechBulletins/TB-Chloramine.pdf

Todays carbon block construction methods combine different types of carbons in one extruded block with extremely small 0.5 and 0.6 micron pore sizes so multiple carbons are not needed or necessary, 10 years ago this was different. Todays carbons break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia down into ammonia, chloride and nitrogen gas. The carbon does adsorb the chlorine portion, not the ammonia portion which is where the DI comes in and why good resin and good contact time are critical. As long as you are using a good quality, low micron carbon block you are covered and there is no need for granular products that degrade into dust and fines and plug downstream components causing the need for additional particulate filtration. When you place a granular product in front of a carbon block you fould its billions of tiny microscopic pores and it is counter productive. Adding another sediment filter after the carbon causes a pressure loss and reduces the membranbe efficiency. The answer is fewer, but better filters and a good full size vertical DI with bottom up flow. This is my opinion but based on a lot or personal experience and research over the last couple decades as well as interaction with others in my water treatment profession.

Excellent on getting the ANSI/NSF certification! Thats a big undertaking and not inexpensive. It shows you have a big commitmemt to the industry and plan to stick around unlike many of the ebay vendors who come and go with no brick and mortar storefront or phone number.
 
The carbon does not remove the ammonia, it helps break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia so it is more easily removed by the membrane and DI.
http://www.wqa.org/pdf/TechBulletins/TB-Chloramine.pdf

Todays carbon block construction methods combine different types of carbons in one extruded block with extremely small 0.5 and 0.6 micron pore sizes so multiple carbons are not needed or necessary, 10 years ago this was different. Todays carbons break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia down into ammonia, chloride and nitrogen gas. The carbon does adsorb the chlorine portion, not the ammonia portion which is where the DI comes in and why good resin and good contact time are critical. As long as you are using a good quality, low micron carbon block you are covered and there is no need for granular products that degrade into dust and fines and plug downstream components causing the need for additional particulate filtration. When you place a granular product in front of a carbon block you fould its billions of tiny microscopic pores and it is counter productive. Adding another sediment filter after the carbon causes a pressure loss and reduces the membranbe efficiency. The answer is fewer, but better filters and a good full size vertical DI with bottom up flow. This is my opinion but based on a lot or personal experience and research over the last couple decades as well as interaction with others in my water treatment profession.


I agree, but have you had any personal experience with catalytic carbon designed to react out chlormaines? If not its truly a quality product you should grab some and do some testing. I would love to hear your feedback on it!
We actually use a catalytic carbon in our NH2CL blaster that (With enough contact time, 2 10in filter passes preferably.) reacts out the chloramaine both chlorine and ammonia. Leaving no ammonia for your DI resin to deal with increasing its life! FL were we are located seems to deal with Chloramines alot. When Chloramines were introduced in areas we supplied labs or commercial faculties with DI resin and other filters we started getting alot of calls about reduced DI resin life. It turned out it was the free ammonia left behind by the standard carbon exhausting the DI faster. With the implementation of a catalytic carbon we were able to react out the chloramines both chlorine and ammonia and return DI life to what it was before the introduction of chloramines. The free ammonia left behind can really start to hurt your wallet, especially if your producing large amounts of water.

Thanks for the ANSI/NSF support AZ we are very excited about it, and we are committed to the industry without a doubt! Its an excellent industry to be in, and we have watched it grow as we have over the years and couldn't be more pleased. Our owner has worked in water treatment for government & private for over 32 years and we are getting ready to celebrate our 15th year anniversary as a company this year. We are proud to say we had always had a phone number and storefront, its also very common for us to give our personal cell to customer even just in case of emergency. Customer service is something we truly pride ourselves in!
 
Thanks for taking the time to read it Aqua fire/medic! Water is the most crucial element when it comes to our hobby, so the more you understand about whats going on with it the better off you are!
 
Question, if you use your system and make water and you know your not going to use it again for at least another week, is it ok to leave the water sitting in the canisters or is it best to unscrew them and drain them?
 
Hey Joey your question could depend on the time frame. The membrane can dry out if their is no water in the system for an extended period of time, but at the same time things can begin to grow is water is left to long! What kind of downtime did you have in mind?
 
Just a week 6-7 days. I usually make water every monday/Tuesday. I don't see that to be a problem if letting the water sit for a week. If drained I would just drain the 3 hanging canisters on a 4 stage, not completely flush and dry out the system.

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Great Guys. This thread went further then i could have ever asked and i think i learned a few things. Picked up the spectrapure system and is arriving today. will plug-n-play and let you now how it goes. I need a PPM tester now
 
Nice! No more trips to the LFS for water, you're right though about a TDS meter get one asap. You'll be playing a guessing game without it,once you get one, grab a few readings such as your tap, post membrane & post DI. That way you will have an idea of what normal performance should be, and you will be able to notice any changes quickly. Enjoy!
 
Isoprene: I have thought about going through autotopoff.com but it seems weird that they only communicate through email...no phones:squigglemouth:. They were actually my first pick hence their name. Anything you would want different about the product? And what did you end up going with?

Still contemplating them but I am looking for one of those 5 gallon whitish/clearish water jugs to pump out of as my water source is too far away to put ro/di inline with sump. Losing about 1 gallon every 2days so Im assuming the 5 gallon jug will last me about 1.5 weeks.

As for a TDS meter is there a popular name to the website or just go buy anything?
 
OH, and the other thing. Im trying to configure my flow restrictor length:nerd:, but Im having some trouble figuring this out. Im not producing anywhere near what the tables are using as guidance. lowest GPD they have on table is 47 and I need 25+/- a week. So How long does my restrictor tube need to be then... see what I mean:cry:. Im losing it.


Please help
 
I split my RODI system after the carbon block. It still runs the same amount of water through the sediment and carbon (1 micron) block but then is branched to two membranes and DI canisters. I have an electric valve before each membrane. Each membrane/DI canister feeds different things. One feeds my ATO tank and the other feeds my change water poly can.

So with this set-up I have two of the two sensor TDS meters. This gives me enough sensors that I have one at raw input from the city, one after my filters (before the membranes), and one after each DI. This gives me insight as to when to change my sediment and carbon block, or if you please, a fairly good picture of what is happening in my RODI system in general.
 
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A good handheld TDS meter brand is HM Digital, their website is www.tdsmeter.com . A couple good choices of models for the reef hobbyist are the TDS-3, TDS-4TM(one of my favorites for the money), COM-100 which I own and use myself and their new AP-1 and AP-2 series meters.
Be careful when shopping on ebay, there are a lot of imported knock offs being sold that look identical visibly but are not the same meter. Expect to pay right at $20-$25 for the real deal and more like $60 for the COM-100 and probably the AP-2 also since they are upgrades from the others with more accuracy and features.

For trimming the flow restrictor take a look at the attached guide, starting on page 8 are the step by step instructions including down to a 25 GPD RO membrane if that is really what you have but I hope it is not, you will be standing around waiting on water for hours.
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/memRepGuide.pdf

Frag, now that is a wierd setup, I have never heard of anyone running tow separate membranes configured like that. If it were me I would piggyback them to increase the GPD and run separate lines after the membranes to the different uses. I did similar years ago with a dual membrane MaxCap system. One line went to my RO/DI storage container, another RO only line went to a 14G pressure tank isolated from the DI and fed the kitchen sink drinking faucet and refrigerator icemaker and water dispenser and a third line went to a RO faucet at my garage laundry sink. With my pressure and dual membranes I was producing right at 250 GPD so everything filled and recovered quickly. It had two dual inline TDS meters which I still have but never use since they are only ballpark accurate. I have tees and ball valves at all points I want to monitor water quality and use the COM-100.
 
I really don't understand how they work to be quite honest. I know water goes in, water goes out. You use your facet water and get clean water. And that's about as far as it goes. Don't know whether I leave it on and collect daily and store, or only run it when I need clean water.

And actually just paid attention to the unit and it has a tds meter wired to it.

I read page 8, and I understand I need to cut to length depending on water usage. Its at 11 inchs now from previous owner.

I feel so sheltered sometimes....
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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