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[newlyreefd]

I have a 20g Brute trash can that I'll be using for my ATO system. I would like to drill a hole at the bottom to run the tubing from my pump. Which will be placed at the bottom of the trash can, through the hole and lead to my sump. What I am asking is what type of plumbing equipment could I put in the drilled hole to connect the hose from the pump, through the hole, then from the hole to the sump? Thanks. I hope I explained it clearly. Confused myself a little.

 

[Bad Company]

Some things to consider:
- What is the evap rate of your system? how long would 20 gallons last?
- What are the consequences of a malfunction pumping all 20 gallons into your sump? Would a smaller ATO tank be better?
- What are the safety checks in place should your evap container be empty?
- Why put a leak point at the botton of the container? Why not just pump through a hose up and over the container wall?
- What prevents siphoning either from your FW container or to it in the event of a power failue / pump failure?
- How easy will it be to refill your ATO container?

If you still want to pump out the bottom, you'll need bulkhead fitings and hosebarb adapters. Make sure that you are happy with the answers to the questions above!

 

[Kworker]

I'm not really sure entirely on what you are trying to accomplish. I can post a picture later of my setup in my basement sump. I use a brute garbage can as well.

I think the easiest route to go is get yourself a Tunze ATO. If you have a smaller tank you can get the nano version that is half the price, which I am picking up today or tomorrow. I have the larger unit on my 180 and it is 120% worth it. Just set up the sensors and put the pump in the brute can, no drilling or plumbing needed.

 

[SloppyJ]

+1 on the tunze. But will that pump have enough to overcome the head on a brute?

 

[Kworker]

+1 on the tunze. But will that pump have enough to overcome the head on a brute?

I have the 3155 and it goes up about 4-5 feet with no issues. Its in a 32 gal brute on the ground, it pumps up the brute over the top of my 40 breeder sump that is roughly 5 feet off the ground.

So I don't see any issues. The only flaw with them is when you turn them off and back on they automatically pump in water for about 15 seconds. I have a large volume system so its not much of an issue for me but would be in a nano.

 

[Intricateart]

We use a simple valve and gravity for our ATO. It only took us a day to get the drip rate accurate. This keeps the evap in a constate state of compensation, and keeps your water level, without the risk of flooding. And its worlds cheaper.

 

[Kworker]

We use a simple valve and gravity for our ATO. It only took us a day to get the drip rate accurate. This keeps the evap in a constate state of compensation, and keeps your water level, without the risk of flooding. And its worlds cheaper.

The issue with that would depend on location with a drip ATO. If they have a basement sump like I do, I have more evap when the burner goes on to heat the house. If the whole system is in a living room or somewhere where a A/C is present they will probably have increased evaporation when the A/C kicks on. If they sometimes use a wood burning stove in the winter months, that will definitely evaporate A LOT of water. The $200 or $100 on the tunze units are worth it IMO, set it up and let it do the work for you. I have no experience on any other ATO brands so I will not comment on them.

I do know there is a DIY gravity ATO that could compensate for fluctuating evap rates. Only pumps in water when the end in the sump is exposed to air, but than the issue with that is you would need to make sure you have a spot you can put It above the sump. Also will run a risk of it filling up the sump with all the water from the reserve since there is no fail sensor to stop it.

 

[Simply__J]

I think the "plumbing part" you're looking for btw is a bulkhead or Uniseal.

 

[AZDesertRat]

You might also consider the Spectrapure UPLC-II. The ATO storage can be mounted remotely, mine is 35 feet away in my garage, and the peristaltic pump can actually pump up about 65 feet vertically or suck up 35 feet from below. The multiple levels of safety can't be beat and the in tank or sump portion is very compact compared to many others so not an eyesore or real estate hog.

You really need to provide a little more info on where the Brute will be placed in relation to the sump or display, how you intend to fill the Brute and what kind of accuracy, redundancy and dependability you are looking for. As already mentioned, it can be as simple as gravity and a float valve to as elaborate as otpical, thermal or digital sensors and anywhere in between.

 

[Waters]

We use a simple valve and gravity for our ATO. It only took us a day to get the drip rate accurate. This keeps the evap in a constate state of compensation, and keeps your water level, without the risk of flooding. And its worlds cheaper.

I actually did the same thing using a glass sun tea jar. I have it set to put a drop of water every 4 seconds and it keeps my water perfectly level at all times. I fill up the jar every other day. I am sure I will have to adjust it throughout the year but the design is so simple and safe it is worth it.