Automatic Water changes. It doesnt get any better then this.

AquamanE · Jan 5, 2014

I finally got around to installing the safety float switch to turn AWC system off if fresh SW bin is empty. Reminder you dont want AWC system on since it will bring in no new water and continue emptying your tank.

I bought a horizontal float switch and installed in Brute 35 g bin. So far so good. Ran wire alonf the 1/4 inch suction line to the apex, via break out box. Tested everything was good.

I then realize that i set the float switch 2-3 inches from bottom of bin. This means that the suction has to be below this. As many of you have probably noticed, these 1/4 suction lines tend to float some. So now i have to make SURE the suction line is well below the float switch, which doesnt give me a lot of room to spare. :nono:

So lesson learned, if setting up a safety float switch place it high enough to give you some wiggle room if suction line tends to float some. I plan on getting something heavy to keep it down, but have to make sure it isnt something that will leach out metals (considered one of my scuba weights, but those are lead). :mad2:

ronnie · Jan 5, 2014

What about a mag float to hold it down? Or is the can too curved for one to work?

Sacohen · Jan 5, 2014

What about that fancy weighted strainer that comes with the Stenner pump?

Seriously how about something like this...
Diving Rings: Lifeguard, First-Aid, and Swim Equipment from Suspended Aquatic Mentor Inc.Weighted pool toy.

AquamanE · Jan 5, 2014

:smile:

ronnie said:
What about a mag float to hold it down? Or is the can too curved for one to work?

Excellent idea Ronnie. dont have one laying around but ill get one. Walls of brute are much less than a fishtank so might compensate for curves, if i get a large one.:bigsmile:

AquamanE · Jan 5, 2014

Sacohen said:
What about that fancy weighted strainer that comes with the Stenner pump?

not heavy enough, especially when i run the pump that keeps water stirred. maybe bring down the bin a peice of pvc and tie it as far down as possible. another excellent idea. line does go all the way down the 5 inch strainer.

AquamanE · Jan 5, 2014

Set safety program with float switch on Apex in case SW bin goes empty, TESTED....

Im all set!!!!!

gtbarsi · Jan 6, 2014

AquamanE said:
I finally got around to installing the safety float switch to turn AWC system off if fresh SW bin is empty. Reminder you dont want AWC system on since it will bring in no new water and continue emptying your tank.

I bought a horizontal float switch and installed in Brute 35 g bin. So far so good. Ran wire alonf the 1/4 inch suction line to the apex, via break out box. Tested everything was good.

I then realize that i set the float switch 2-3 inches from bottom of bin. This means that the suction has to be below this. As many of you have probably noticed, these 1/4 suction lines tend to float some. So now i have to make SURE the suction line is well below the float switch, which doesnt give me a lot of room to spare. :nono:

So lesson learned, if setting up a safety float switch place it high enough to give you some wiggle room if suction line tends to float some. I plan on getting something heavy to keep it down, but have to make sure it isnt something that will leach out metals (considered one of my scuba weights, but those are lead). :mad2:

Why not drill the container and use a 1/2 uni-seal and plumb it in? Then you would just need to insure your sensor was above it...
You can use one of these:

Then use one of these:

Peanut · Jan 6, 2014

AquamanE said:
Set safety program with float switch on Apex in case SW bin goes empty, TESTED....

Im all set!!!!!

can you post the code you used?

AquamanE · Jan 6, 2014

gtbarsi said:
Why not drill the container and use a 1/2 uni-seal and plumb it in? Then you would just need to insure your sensor was above it...
You can use one of these:

Then use one of these:

Looks good, but dont think this will create a seal on a Rubbermaid 35G Brute like i use. they are vert flimsy.

AquamanE · Jan 6, 2014

Peanut said:
can you post the code you used?

This is the code in my APEX AWC system outlet.

Keep in mind the regualr state of the float switch is OFF. The "if time" statement is the amount of time I run it.

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Time 18:00 to 19:40 Then ON
If Switch6 OPEN Then OFF

gtbarsi · Jan 6, 2014

AquamanE said:
Looks good, but dont think this will create a seal on a Rubbermaid 35G Brute like i use. they are vert flimsy.

Uniseals are designed to seal once the correct size PVC pipe is installed, it forces the seal out and around the material it is fitted in. As long as you drill your hole properly you should be fine.

Per one of the uniseal reviews on BRS

"Used several of these on brute containers to build a water storage/mixing station. Work fantastic."

AquamanE · Jan 6, 2014

gtbarsi said:
Uniseals are designed to seal once the correct size PVC pipe is installed, it forces the seal out and around the material it is fitted in. As long as you drill your hole properly you should be fine.

Per one of the uniseal reviews on BRS
"Used several of these on brute containers to build a water storage/mixing station. Work fantastic."

gtbarsi- Im familiar with uniseals, but what i see in that pic seems to be a rigid piece of PVC. Not only that but im nor familiar with a uniseal with threads. Am I incorrect? If I am where can i get a threaded uniseal that will fit a 1/4" rigid RO/DI type line?

Sacohen · Jan 6, 2014

AquamanE;

I think he is talking about shoving a piece of 1/2" thru the uniseal.

Then putting a Schedule 80 Reducing Bushing Thread x Thread - Bulk Reef Supply the end and then a Mur-lok RO Elbow - Male NPT x Push Connect - Bulk Reef Supply into that.

The one in this link is an elbow, but I know they have 1/4" push to NPT straight. I have 2 of them for my RO unit.

gtbarsi · Jan 6, 2014

you would need 3 things...
First would be a 1/2" uniseal (not in previous pictures I am sure everyone knows what they are.)
Second would be a 1/2" spigot x 1/4" NPT bushing (Like this one). This goes in to the uniseal and expands it like 1/2" PVC pipe.
Then you can use any 1/4" Male NPT to 1/4" push connect fitting you want (without or with a valve)

The images I posted before are links to 3/8" bushing and push connect fitting, I just ordered some like those for my water mixing and auto water change setups. Additionally I ordered a 1/4" setup for my ATO.

Hope that helps.

P.S. Amazon does not have the best prices on this stuff, but is an easy reference. The bushing can be hard to find so that is the only thing I would consider getting from Amazon, if you do not have an order you need to place with another potential source. If you need more than $25.00 worth of plumbing pieces it is worth shopping around, I found a source that sells that same bushing for less than a dollar, but they have a $25.00 minimum order before shipping, and shipping is not free. My local hardware store has a lot of Watts push connect fittings in various sizes for less than Amazon.

Sacohen · Jan 7, 2014

This is the fitting I was talking about.

200044-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-Bulkhead-Tank-Adapter-1-4-inch-QC-a_1.jpg

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-push-connect-bulkhead-tank-adapter.html

That will screw into the 1/2' bushing that goes into the uniseal.

KoleTang · Jan 7, 2014

My pumps started in CA, went through PA, and now are in NJ. What the heck LOL. USPS is doin' it wrong.

I wonder if you could use silicone to supplement the uniseal?

Sacohen · Jan 7, 2014

If installed right you shouldn't need to.

DRThompson · Jan 8, 2014

I have 1/4" uniseals eddie, LMK if you want one

nivram · Jan 8, 2014

AquamanE said:
I finally got around to installing the safety float switch to turn AWC system off if fresh SW bin is empty. Reminder you dont want AWC system on since it will bring in no new water and continue emptying your tank.

I bought a horizontal float switch and installed in Brute 35 g bin. So far so good. Ran wire alonf the 1/4 inch suction line to the apex, via break out box. Tested everything was good.

I then realize that i set the float switch 2-3 inches from bottom of bin. This means that the suction has to be below this. As many of you have probably noticed, these 1/4 suction lines tend to float some. So now i have to make SURE the suction line is well below the float switch, which doesnt give me a lot of room to spare. :nono:

So lesson learned, if setting up a safety float switch place it high enough to give you some wiggle room if suction line tends to float some. I plan on getting something heavy to keep it down, but have to make sure it isnt something that will leach out metals (considered one of my scuba weights, but those are lead). :mad2:

What about a tungsten fishing weight? Bass Pro would have something like this.