Automatic Water changes. It doesnt get any better then this.

[ddavies564]

Instead of running the waste directly to a drain, why not to a container where you can physically measure the in, and out volumes to verify the pumps are in sync? When it's time, open a drain for the waste, and refill the new water tank... I'm not entirely convinced that two identical pumps on the same shaft will pump identical quantities of water over a period of time. Knowing exactly how much you pumped both directions would allow you to know if adjustments are needed.

I agree to a degree, but as much as mechanically possible for the money spent they are going to be pretty close. Plus you are replacing saltwater with saltwater any change in salinity would take a massive difference in flow rates. And unless u plan on not checking your salinity for months on end I feel and minute adjustments would likely not be an issue.

 

[leemajors]

subscribed

 

[stlcard]

When you consider the cost of some of the water change systems: Genesis $400-500, liter meter $300-400.....the stenner just makes sense. I did a more complete write up on reefcentral. These pumps can pull water up to 25feet vertically and push water more than 60+feet. This would be a great pump for people with reservoirs in their basements who want to do water changes. These pumps are NOT for everyone; they are loud, large and heavy. I would not want to put one of these in my stand or in my living room.

how loud are we talking here? I have a fish room setup in one of my unused spare bedrooms. The room is just off the living/tv room. Loud enough to have to adjust volume on a tv? How long would it run for a 2-3 gal water change?

 

[ddavies564]

how loud are we talking here? I have a fish room setup in one of my unused spare bedrooms. The room is just off the living/tv room. Loud enough to have to adjust volume on a tv? How long would it run for a 2-3 gal water change?

It's pretty loud, lol.

 

[ddavies564]

Seen u were asking about the other one I image pretty close to the same tho.

 

[stlcard]

Thermofisher D3138 13 w Masterflex 7024 20 Pump Multichannel Clear Polycarbonate | eBay

Here are the pumps I bought to try this.

Ddavies posted the item number for the hose earlier. From McMaster Carr.

um.. not to be "that guy", but did you read that the pumps were pulled from an ink refilling machine?... I wouldnt want ink remnants in my tank. I like the current colors i have

 

[stlcard]

It's pretty loud, lol.

ha ok. like a blender? i call that loud. or a vacuum... To some people on here and RC, "LOUD" could be a pin drop. Usually in reference to skimmers or submersible pumps. I just see people complain about something thats really not that loud.

 

[ddavies564]

um.. not to be "that guy", but did you read that the pumps were pulled from an ink refilling machine?... I wouldnt want ink remnants in my tank. I like the current colors i have

The way a peristaltic pump works the tubing is the only think that is in contact with ink , change the tubing and it's 100% safe.

 

[stlcard]

The way a peristaltic pump works the tubing is the only think that is in contact with ink , change the tubing and it's 100% safe.

ah. well thats good.

got around to watching the video. I would classify that as "not loud". I can deal. Especially since itll only be on for an hour or two.

 

[impur]

Here's mine.

Just need some uniseals and it will be rollin'

 

[cdness]

You have given me some ideas

 

[Sacohen]

Hey this thread made the Facebook Post.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Here's mine.

Just need some uniseals and it will be rollin'

WORD OF CAUTION

It would appear that the top brace of your stand is held in place by screws/nails only. With a water barrel on top of this stand, you will need to add bracing that directly supports the top frame. I believe this picture shows what I’m talking about:

 

[gtbarsi]

WORD OF CAUTION

It would appear that the top brace of your stand is held in place by screws/nails only. With a water barrel on top of this stand, you will need to add bracing that directly supports the top frame. I believe this picture shows what I’m talking about:

Yes!

It would appear that the load from the top barrel is being carried by the cross bars that do not have direct support. If the load becomes too much the fasteners you have used could pull out, bend, or just sheer off.
You want to carry your load with your vertical sports at least partially underneath the cross bar that supports the weight of the upper barrel. Additional front to back support is needed as well.

Consider the weight of just water at 8.345404lb/gallon, if that is a 50 gallon barrel you are looking at 417.2702 lbs. I would re-design the stand as recommended by redfishbluefish. Also the boards you have supporting the barrels themselves do not look like they could support that kind of weight mid-span, they need cross bracing tied back in to the side supports. Personally I would be using lag bolts for everything, and use metal braces on all inside corners.

As a test I would get two large friends to climb up on it and try to get it to wiggle back and forth and side to side. If they can then it needs more work. Just think about what that kind of water would do if the stand failed and one if not both of the barrels spilled.

 

[Alabamareef]

I would be worried about friction loss if you're not running the tubing the exact same way. I just got the litermeter 3 and it splits the duty between 2 pumps. You have to do a calibration. Basically it records the time it takes 500ml to go from salt to tank and then tank to waste. I can tell you first hand, the times are not exactly the same. Which in your case, you'll have either more salt in or more waste out. Might be something for you to think about....

Scott.

Friction loss is not applicable in a parastalic pump. The only concern with the different length of tubbing would be I your incoming line is longer than the outgoing you'll have residual left in the line when the pumps stop, should be minor. Friction loss is more applicable in firefighting operations when your dealing with different size hoses and your using a positive displacement pump that uses rpm to move water. PSI and GPH will come into play.

 

[joshporksandwich]

That's so cool Eddie! Come over and do it for my new tank.

 

[impur]

WORD OF CAUTION

It would appear that the top brace of your stand is held in place by screws/nails only. With a water barrel on top of this stand, you will need to add bracing that directly supports the top frame. I believe this picture shows what I’m talking about:

Thanks. Yah I wasn't done with the stand when I snapped the picture. You can see the top shelf isn't even the right size nor is it secured. Its just there for the picture.

I moved the pic

 

[Sacohen]

Here is a little video I put together. The power supply and everything I normal use to run it are all torn apart to add a float switch. Here's the setup all hooked to a rc plane battery about 12v.
Dual Masterflex pump on Vimeo

Do you know the spec of the power supply needed for the thermofisher d3138 13 w master flex 7024 20 pump?
I know it's 12v, but how much amps does it pull?

 

[ronnie]

I think I'll try an adjustable power supply to see if I can slow it down some (if it makes much difference). At the full 200rpms, I only need it to run four minutes a day. I'd be ok extending that out to 15 min or so if slowing it down works.

 

[ddavies564]

Do you know the spec of the power supply needed for the thermofisher d3138 13 w master flex 7024 20 pump?
I know it's 12v, but how much amps does it pull?

12v 1.5 wasn't enough, so to be save I would say 4 to 5 amps.