Bacteria bloom/carbon dosing

[bureau13]

I measured it last back in July and it was 0.1, which I guess is on the high side of normal but certainly not too low. I have not tested that one as regularly but I should do so just to make sure it hasn't dropped precipitously or something.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I measured it last back in July and it was 0.1, which I guess is on the high side of normal but certainly not too low. I have not tested that one as regularly but I should do so just to make sure it hasn't dropped precipitously or something.

I'd measure again to be sure it hasn't bottomed out and is now limiting nitrate uptake.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

I did the Vodka Dosing on three of my Aquariums at the same time, used the online chart that has two ramp ups the first week, then you slightly up the dosage each week. Worked great on the Green Hair Algae on a well established tank. Other newer tanks, went into overdrive on the ugly stage, and had to quit dosing them. On the 272 day of dosing the 65 Gallon with good results. Big Plus is it didn’t kill my Macro Algae or harm my Corals. What ever you do, don’t just dump a bunch of Vodka in, or get impatient with the ramp up, it takes Time to see results.

 

[Troylee]

I'd measure again to be sure it hasn't bottomed out and is now limiting nitrate uptake.

Exact problem I’m having with my first go around of zeo.. ugh lol..

 

[bureau13]

I'd measure again to be sure it hasn't bottomed out and is now limiting nitrate uptake.

I will do that today. I did not fully appreciate the relationship there.

 

[bureau13]

I did the Vodka Dosing on three of my Aquariums at the same time, used the online chart that has two ramp ups the first week, then you slightly up the dosage each week. Worked great on the Green Hair Algae on a well established tank. Other newer tanks, went into overdrive on the ugly stage, and had to quit dosing them. On the 272 day of dosing the 65 Gallon with good results. Big Plus is it didn’t kill my Macro Algae or harm my Corals. What ever you do, don’t just dump a bunch of Vodka in, or get impatient with the ramp up, it takes Time to see results.

I started off dosing pure vodka on a ramp-up schedule, but freaked out when it got very cloudy after about a month. I liked the NOPox style approach with vinegar and vodka so I changed to that. As I understand it, the Red Sea dosing strategy is a steady dose and then ramp down to a maintenance level, which is what I'm doing now.

 

[bureau13]

OK, I measured phosphate and it's quite low, at least in comparison to the nitrates. From the Salifert kit, it's at most 0.03. It wasn't 0, but there was not a lot of color in that vial.

Edited: So at best, a ratio of 75/0.03 = not ideal. What do I do about it? I'm guessing this may be why my chaeto died away as well...

 

[bureau13]

Well look what I found: High Nitrates/Low Phosphates thread

That looks exactly like what I'm seeing. So I guess I will start dosing phosphate. Question: Should I be continuing to dose carbon? Or should I stop that?

 

[hexcolor reef]

I have a bacteria bloom after adding Fritz 9000, when I added more dry rock to my tank.

Had to pick up a UV sterilizer to help kill off bacteria but tank is still cloudy the long view. A lot better than what it looked like before UV light was added

So I’m about to add a second UV sterilizer in the sump. While doing 10g water changes weekly.

Phosphate in my recent check was 2.5 And Nitrates 2.2, that’s after feeding a lot of Reef Roids

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

OK, I measured phosphate and it's quite low, at least in comparison to the nitrates. From the Salifert kit, it's at most 0.03. It wasn't 0, but there was not a lot of color in that vial.

Edited: So at best, a ratio of 75/0.03 = not ideal. What do I do about it? I'm guessing this may be why my chaeto died away as well...

The first step is to stop thinking about ratios. It's misleading and not optimal. Your statement above is a perfect example of what is wrong with it. It is incorrect, IMO, to claim that 0.03 ppm phosphate and 75 ppm nitrate is "why" chaeto died. Those levels are perfectly fine for chaeto.


Target both nitrate and phosphate to optimal levels, and you can never go wrong. Target ratios and you can go wrong with both too low or both too high.

IMO, phosphate is fine at 0.03 to 0.1 ppm, and above that level is much better than below it.

Nitrate is fine at 2-10 ppm, with levels above that range better than below it unless you feed particulates heavily or dose other sources of N such as ammonia or amino acids.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Well look what I found: High Nitrates/Low Phosphates thread

That looks exactly like what I'm seeing. So I guess I will start dosing phosphate. Question: Should I be continuing to dose carbon? Or should I stop that?

There's lots of comments in that thread that I do not agree with, but doing both is a fine plan. Dosing phosphate will keep it up and the organic carbon will reduce nitrate and help feed corals and other filter feeders.

 

[Stigigemla]

I believe the Hanna will be blinking when your water is out of measuring range.
I would make a test of 1 ml aquarium water (Salifert syringe) with 9 ml osmosis water .
Multiply the value with 10.
The test result is probably a bit off but you can see small differencies to a later test anyway.

If You want a good result you have to mix new saltwater separatly, let it stand for a day or two, measure it and then mix it with 1ml aquarium water in the Hanna test tube and measure the mix.
Post the 2 values here and you will get help to calculate the correct value.

If You are aiming to use organic carbon dosing to reduce nitrate or phosphate be aware that it feeds bacteria to be filtered out.
The bacteria needs all 3, nitrate, phosphate and carbon. If one of them are depleted they will not grow.
I have a few customers that first reduced phosphorous and when beginning dosing carbon corals bleached out.
Then they hade to dose phosphate and after fighting that some years it doesn't feel good. But it did work.

Normally organic carbon will result in about 50 x more reduction of nitrate than phosphate but that is very, very variable due to stones, sand and different bacteria strands i the tank.

 

[bureau13]

There's lots of comments in that thread that I do not agree with, but doing both is a fine plan. Dosing phosphate will keep it up and the organic carbon will reduce nitrate and help feed corals and other filter feeders.

Ok I'll continue with the he carbon and start dosing phosphate. Thanks!

My chaeto death comment was just conjecture, but I do see your point about targeting ratios.

 

[Troylee]

Ok I'll continue with the he carbon and start dosing phosphate. Thanks!

My chaeto death comment was just conjecture, but I do see your point about targeting ratios.

If you don’t wanna waste money on a po4 supplement get some reef roids to feed your corals and it will raise quickly… works great, so go easy till you get a feel for it..

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

If you don’t wanna waste money on a po4 supplement get some reef roids to feed your corals and it will raise quickly… works great, so go easy till you get a feel for it..

Although dosing is much cheaper than any food.

from another thread:

One 4 ounce bottle of food grade trisodium phosphate (containing 65,000 mg of phosphate) from amazon for $6.99 can raise a 100 L aquarium to 0.1 ppm phosphate every day for 18 years.

 

[bureau13]

Interesting! I actually have some Reef Roids just not much coral at the moment.

Randy, I'm showing my ignorance here, but I was searching on Amazon last night and was confused by the the options. Disodium, trisodium, etc. I also wasn't sure about the dosage when it isn't packaged for this use. But that does sound like the economical way to do it.

 

[biom]

If you don’t wanna waste money on a po4 supplement get some reef roids to feed your corals and it will raise quickly… works great, so go easy till you get a feel for it..

Agree i think feeding with high phosphate diet (reef roids, nori, frozen mysis) is kind of a safer way of raising phosphate.There is little risk of overdosing, phosphates will rise slowly and fish and corals will be happy. But yes this will come with additional nitrate raise...

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Interesting! I actually have some Reef Roids just not much coral at the moment.

Randy, I'm showing my ignorance here, but I was searching on Amazon last night and was confused by the the options. Disodium, trisodium, etc. I also wasn't sure about the dosage when it isn't packaged for this use. But that does sound like the economical way to do it.

It doesn’t matter which one, particularly. The differences are very small impacts on pH and alkalinity.

 

[bureau13]

Ok good to know, thank you.

I'm starting to think of my tank as a big chemistry set

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Ok good to know, thank you.

I'm starting to think of my tank as a big chemistry set

For sure. I had a chemistry set as a kid. It was not unlike this one: