Bacteria utilization

[livinlifeinBKK]

No I haven’t

But that’s where my mind is at this point. There has to be something in the water.
I’m on a well and my water is ran through a water softener and a 4 stage RODI. I’ll be running an ICP on my RODI water as well

I'm actually surprised more people don't experience diseases coming in on live rock from the Caribbean given the outbreaks over the previous decades.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

In that case, I'd go with Aqiabiomics and explain the problem in detail to them, an ICP test next , and lastly the fresh ocean live rock so if you do have a disease it won't be contaminated.

 

[Reefer911]

including PAR

that's the first thing to change if you want a different result

lots of par burns going on, nobody sets max par to alk levels/few can actually know their alk levels using the type of kits they have/so many variables and the upper end is always sought= sunburn, bleaching.

there are other things nonbacterial we can do too

I’ll have to check again but I remember the PAR was above 250 at the top.

 

[Reefer911]

In that case, I'd go with Aqiabiomics and explain the problem in detail to them, an ICP test next , and lastly the fresh ocean live rock so if you do have a disease it won't be contaminated.

Yeah I’m keeping the LR isolated until I figure out what’s going on

 

[Reefer911]

Do you have abundant coralline growth in the tank? This is a good indicator for the health of the tank to support SPS corals.

What is your top tank par? Recent ICP test? How do you maintain consistency with alk and cal?

Yeah lots of coralline.

Ok have to recheck par but it’s at least 250 at the top. Possibly more

I have ordered an ICP so I’m working on that.

I dose AFR throughout the day

 

[brandon429]

the microbiome should not be built by buying additives sold to you by bottle bac sellers, that's a propped industry you don't have to participate in

vs dry rock setups, I'd have opted for skip cycle live rock pre cured from a pet store that costs more, but is the instant biological base you want. unhelpful expenditures of bottle bac and sauces applied to dry rock starts to save money is still wasted money compared to simple, costly, coralline-lined cured live rock from a pet store

you'd then cease using par meters and any of those bacterial additives you're buying that reefs don't need.

Set your lights on a very blue acclimation level and slowly bring up over a month's time, stop when your system tells you to, not a par meter.

shift away from fad things of the current day which when combined with luck can turn a dry start reef into a functioning sps one

but don't think those sauces make a nonfunctioning reef into a functioning one, they don't. they're overselling what those products do for you: your tank is as full up on cycling bac as it can be for it's surfaces, adding this extra bioloading is not helpful, old school reef rock would fix you.

if unable to get the right rock, the variables hunt and guessing will continue / dry start reefing is very tough

 

[Lavey29]

Yeah lots of coralline.

Ok have to recheck par but it’s at least 250 at the top. Possibly more

I have ordered an ICP so I’m working on that.

I dose AFR throughout the day

Well that's good, honestly no disrespect meant but looking over your posting history with your tank it looks like you were trying to do to much to fast with some areas. Patience is the main thing leading to success in this hobby. Tanks under a year are still developing their biome and not completely stable despite what your numbers may indicate. I tried some SPS testers at 8 and 10 months and failed. After my tank went past a year it became much more stable and predictable. Eventually added a total of 38 SPS frags with no failures or losses. Mini colonies and full colonies now.

Don't get discouraged but be patient and let the tank continue to mature. I think you are on the right path but reefs don't happen overnight or in a few months.

 

[Reefer911]

Well that's good, honestly no disrespect meant but looking over your posting history with your tank it looks like you were trying to do to much to fast with some areas. Patience is the main thing leading to success in this hobby. Tanks under a year are still developing their biome and not completely stable despite what your numbers may indicate. I tried some SPS testers at 8 and 10 months and failed. After my tank went past a year it became much more stable and predictable. Eventually added a total of 38 SPS frags with no failures or losses. Mini colonies and full colonies now.

Don't get discouraged but be patient and let the tank continue to mature. I think you are on the right path but reefs don't happen overnight or in a few months.

Yeah maybe I should just give it a few more months. At least my torch and a couple of gonis look good

I don’t mind criticism. I obviously need some direction here

 

[Lavey29]

Yeah maybe I should just give it a few more months. At least my torch and a couple of gonis look good

I don’t mind criticism. I obviously need some direction here

If you successfully navigated the uglies and have good coralline then you are on the right path. See what your ICP test shows. Just try some inexpensive frags like stylo, monti digi or birdsnest nest and once you see those established with good growth move on to some nicer acros.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

Well that's good, honestly no disrespect meant but looking over your posting history with your tank it looks like you were trying to do to much to fast with some areas. Patience is the main thing leading to success in this hobby. Tanks under a year are still developing their biome and not completely stable despite what your numbers may indicate. I tried some SPS testers at 8 and 10 months and failed. After my tank went past a year it became much more stable and predictable. Eventually added a total of 38 SPS frags with no failures or losses. Mini colonies and full colonies now.

Don't get discouraged but be patient and let the tank continue to mature. I think you are on the right path but reefs don't happen overnight or in a few months.

Out of curiosity, are you primarily referring to your alkalinity becoming stable enough because I'm about to try some acros in a new er system and the alkalinity is definitely stable and very few fish so nutrients remain low. Weekly water changes.

 

[Lavey29]

Out of curiosity, are you primarily referring to your alkalinity becoming stable enough because I'm about to try some acros in a new er system and the alkalinity is definitely stable and very few fish so nutrients remain low. Weekly water changes.

I would say alk is one of the primary areas to focus on to keep stable. Alk and cal typically get consumed in equal portions (not always) and should be dosed proportionally as well. I dose 42ml of alk and 42ml of calcium daily. Magnesium only depletes at 1/10th the rate of alk so water changes typically replenish this along with trace elements. If you skip multiple weeks between water changes then you may need a little Magnesium and trace dosing too. I do about 10ml each week between water changes every 3 weeks.

But as we all know water chemistry is just one piece of the puzzle. Light and flow big parts too. I was shocked to find out how low my par was with radion lights after par meter check. No wonder my corals were stagnant. I'm at 100% intensity now with huge coral growth.

Flow was another. SPS and the ocean I figured I needed huge flow in the tank....wrong...corals were not extended and declined. Last year I dropped to max 26% intensity on my MP40s and boom corals flourish in a heavily stocked reef tank.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

I would say alk is one of the primary areas to focus on to keep stable. Alk and cal typically get consumed in equal portions (not always) and should be dosed proportionally as well. I dose 42ml of alk and 42ml of calcium daily. Magnesium only depletes at 1/10th the rate of alk so water changes typically replenish this along with trace elements. If you skip multiple weeks between water changes then you may need a little Magnesium and trace dosing too. I do about 10ml each week between water changes every 3 weeks.

But as we all know water chemistry is just one piece of the puzzle. Light and flow big parts too. I was shocked to find out how low my par was with radion lights after par meter check. No wonder my corals were stagnant. I'm at 100% intensity now with huge coral growth.

Flow was another. SPS and the ocean I figured I needed huge flow in the tank....wrong...corals were not extended and declined. Last year I dropped to max 26% intensity on my MP40s and boom corals flourish in a heavily stocked reef tank.

This is a nano but I've got a pump for water movement it's stocked with all wild Indonesia lice Rock, and has been fallow for a few weeks after an ammonia spike due to a fish dying. Over the past few days I've done several water changes to refresh the water before adding anything corals or fish and the light is a Noospsyche K7 Mini (60 Watt).

 

[Lavey29]

This is a nano but I've got a pump for water movement it's stocked with all wild Indonesia lice Rock, and has been fallow for a few weeks after an ammonia spike due to a fish dying. Over the past few days I've done several water changes to refresh the water before adding anything corals or fish and the light is a Noospsyche K7 Mini (60 Watt).

Nano comes with its own challenges because when something goes off it quickly involves the whole system. Weekly water changes will typically take care of a nano tanks chemistry but perhaps when fully stocked a little hand dose may be needed to supplement. Same principles apply though with water chemistry, flow and light just on a small scale.

 

[vetteguy53081]

In the never ending quest to solve my SPS problem, I’m wondering if there’s a condition in which corals aren’t able to utilize bacteria in our systems.

I can not keep any sps corals. Countless frags over the course of a couple of years and two tanks end up with the same result. Bleaching from the base AND tips. Same with the encrusting types. I have ensured that my parameters are stable and within recommended ranges, including PAR

Some people strive to see growth from their sps. I’d like to see mine not die. LPS corals that I have are living but not growing.

But back to the question. Is there a condition that would prevent corals from utilizing bacteria. It seems that I have everything in place to promote a healthy environment for corals but in reality, it’s just the opposite.

I’m determined to make this work

Light , water flow/turnover rate, alk/calcium balance and yes bacteria all play a role in growth and color

 

[Reefer911]

Out of curiosity, are you primarily referring to your alkalinity becoming stable enough because I'm about to try some acros in a new er system and the alkalinity is definitely stable and very few fish so nutrients remain low. Weekly water changes.

With me dosing AFR, and NP Bacto balance, everything is stable

 

[Lavey29]

With me dosing AFR, and NP Bacto balance, everything is stable

I recommend an ICP test every 4 or 5 months just to go over everything in the tank. It's only $45 so 2 or 3x per year is not to bad.

 

[Reefer911]

I recommend an ICP test every 4 or 5 months just to go over everything in the tank. It's only $45 so 2 or 3x per year is not to bad.

I’ve spent more than that on killing corals lol

 

[Lavey29]

I’ve spent more than that on killing corals lol

I did too when my tank was young so you're in a good club.

 

[Reefer911]

I did too when my tank was young so you're in a good club.

I’m hoping you’re right about it being too soon because patiently waiting would be so much easier

 

[Lavey29]

I’m hoping you’re right about it being too soon because patiently waiting would be so much easier

But you still have to diligently keep up with your part like water changes etc... your original question about bacteria also this is why I dose PNS probio weekly and also Reef Actif weeklyto make sure the good guys always outnumber the bad guys.