Bacterial Blooms in QT tanks

[nbd13]

Hi,

Wondering if I can get some advice/tips to advice bacterial blooms in QT tanks.

I use aqua clear 50 HOB filter with the included sponge and some filter floss in a mesh bag.

Start each tank with Bio Spira usually 1/3 of the bigger bottle.

Usually 1-3 smaller fish per tank. Tanks are usually 10 gallons.

Follow the protocol that’s tagged at the top of this page.

I feed 2-3 times per day. Maybe a little heavy, but I suck out what’s not eaten after 10-20 minutes.

It seems like the tanks are clear for about 7-10 days and then get a bloom.

I’ve tried spectrogram 3 different times on the blooms and it does nothing even after 2 doses 3 days apart.

Any advice? Seems like these blooms are not good for the health of the fish either!

Thanks

 

[nbd13]

Would larger tanks? Like 20 gallons be better?

Thanks

 

[EmdeReef]

The larger the tank the more stable it will be. That said I’m currently running a 90g QT and have not been able to completely eliminate milky water. Using seachem matrix helps a bit.

Water changes are the only thing that works.

 

[nbd13]

The larger the tank the more stable it will be. That said I’m currently running a 90g QT and have not been able to completely eliminate milky water. Using seachem matrix helps a bit.

Water changes are the only thing that works.

How soon do you get the milky water? Do you think it negatively effects the fish?

 

[Big G]

UV filter. Started using a The Green Killing Machine purchased on Amazon. Works pretty good. Takes 3-5 days and water changes to remove debris from the UV and left over food, poop, etc. But my water cleared up nicely. Highly recommend.

This is the one I use on my 20 QT: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0051C62IQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Kvnsu]

I would add more chemical filtration, such as carbon and purigen.

 

[4FordFamily]

UV filter. Started using a The Green Killing Machine purchased on Amazon. Works pretty good. Takes 3-5 days and water changes to remove debris from the UV and left over food, poop, etc. But my water cleared up nicely. Highly recommend.

This is the one I use on my 20 QT: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0051C62IQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Be cautious using this with copper, but this does work well.

This happens in 25-30% of our quarantines as well. We usually stuff a lot of fish in there which does not help. Sometimes it’s severe and worsens dramatically each day (these are near impossible to rid and even seen to follow the fish).

If what you describe doesn’t work, unfortunately it’s just giant water changes.

One working theory from @Humblefish is that instant ocean may have changed their formula, and the issue is contained in the salt. Who knows!

 

[nbd13]

Be cautious using this with copper, but this does work well.

This happens in 25-30% of our quarantines as well. We usually stuff a lot of fish in there which does not help. Sometimes it’s severe and worsens dramatically each day (these are near impossible to rid and even seen to follow the fish).

If what you describe doesn’t work, unfortunately it’s just giant water changes.

One working theory from @Humblefish is that instant ocean may have changed their formula, and the issue is contained in the salt. Who knows!

Thanks. I use Red Sea salt, blue bucket, so not sure if that has something to do with it?

I do large water changes like 50% and it doesn’t touch it...I have to now on 2 different 10 gallons, one with a small juvi regal and the other with 2 borbonius anthias...

I felt the same way it seems to follow the fish.

Would prefer not to have to buy 3 different UV setups and all that.

Do you think it affects the fish in a negative way? Wondering if it decreases appetite?

Just frustrated I guess. How often do you do water changes? How much are you changing each time? I moved the borbonius to a new tank all together.

What bottled bacteria is everyone using?

Thanks

 

[Big G]

Fritz Turbo 900 is the fastest working
BioSpira is quick and usually the easiest to find
Seachem Stability creates a more stable bio filter but takes longer to mature

 

[ngoodermuth]

The biggest danger with these blooms is oxygen consumption. When I see them, I’ll do a water change and then add in an extra air-stone for aeration.

In my experience, dosing medications with copper can actually trigger these blooms... so, I think I’d skip the spectrogram unless you need it to treat infection.

 

[nbd13]

Fritz Turbo 900 is the fastest working
BioSpira is quick and usually the easiest to find
Seachem Stability creates a more stable bio filter but takes longer to mature

Thanks. I know Fritz is quicker and I started with that, but it’s a lot more expensive and seems more use biospira so I wanted to try that. I had blooms with Fritz as well.

 

[nbd13]

The biggest danger with these blooms is oxygen consumption. When I see them, I’ll do a water change and then add in an extra air-stone for aeration.

In my experience, dosing medications with copper can actually trigger these blooms... so, I think I’d skip the spectrogram unless you need it to treat infection.

Thanks I can add an air stone. What percentage of water do you change?

I tried spectrogram in order to clear the bloom but that hasn’t worked yet. So I won’t be doing that again.

Just don’t want it to affect the fish in a negative way.

 

[ngoodermuth]

As long as the 02 exchange is adequate, they aren’t dangerous per say... but a water change is always a good idea.

I usually do 5-10 gallons on my 20g QT, depending on how bad it is. You won’t necessarily get “crystal clear” water, but helps to manage it.

Also, not sure if you are using lights on your QT, but I’ve found my water stays clearer if I only use ambient room light. Could just be because it prevents algae from growing, not the bacteria, but it helps my peace of mind lol