Bacterial Infection?

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FW is almost to temp. I see him breathing with both gills now. Maybe slightly faster than normal.
 
Ammonia badge shows safe but I did a regular test and it shows .2ppm ammonia so I'm also prepping a WC. Should I go ahead with the FW dip or assume it was from ammonia?
 
WWC
Ok so that was stressful. I got the FW done and I think I do see some flukes. I've done a FW dip a couple times and the one time I did find flukes they started dropping off at like 2min and were spasming if I remember correctly. This time the three that dropped off dropped off immediately and that's all I got. So I was thinking maybe it was just some piece of food that got netted with the CBB. But looking at the photos I'm pretty sure that's a fluke.

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Humblefish said:
@Instigate I think that’s just a scale. Monogeneans (flukes) turn solid white once exposed to freshwater.
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I was kind of thinking that too since they fell off instantly and wasn't spasiming. Do you think the heavy breathing in one gill and not breathing with the other is more likely due to the .2ppm ammonia or possibly from the previous ich infestation? I did a 50% WC and put carbon back in.

I suppose if it wasn't flukes then it was likely from the ammonia or maybe ich and either way I should continue the Tripple Sulfa the finish off the fin rot then treat the ich with either CP, TTM, hypo or copper. I would like to do CP if I can get it and if not I'm leaning toward hypo. It was verry difficult to catch him for the FW dip so I think TTM is out and I would really hate to put him in copper again because now I'm afraid of him getting a bacterial infection again due to the immunity suppression of copper.
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
Taking the carbon out and dosing the second dose of Triple Sulfa. I'm curious about any opinions you guys have on what to do once I'm past the fin rot and am ready to continue treatment for ich. I'm leaning toward hypo, seems the least stressful on the fish and if he did get some kind of infection again I could continue hypo while treating the infection. Biggest downside I see is if I happen to have a hypo resistant strain. How common is that? I would guess it's hard to know because most people use copper right?
 
Humblefish said:
@Instigate The 0.2ppm ammonia is the most likely explanation for the heavy breathing.

I personally would run him thru TTM if you are worried about ich: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/

If you haven’t already dewormed, you can use Prazipro in conjunction with TTM.
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The plan was to do the prazi while doing copper but never got that far. What size tank do you think would be best for that? I have several 10 gallons, a 20 long and a 4' 60 gallon. I could try to craigslist something else. I'm thinking a couple 29 or 40 gallons tanks would be ideal for QT of this fish.
 
Instigate said:
The plan was to do the prazi while doing copper but never got that far. What size tank do you think would be best for that? I have several 10 gallons, a 20 long and a 4' 60 gallon. I could try to craigslist something else. I'm thinking a couple 29 or 40 gallons tanks would be ideal for QT of this fish.
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For TTM, I would use a couple of 10 gals + dedicated equipment for each tank.

But if you were wanting to do hypo or copper I would probably use either a 20L or 29 gal. Same footprint, but the 29 gives you more water volume to protect against ammonia creeping up.
 
I'm assuming I can't use water from my DT for WC because I have the Tripple Sulfa in the QT and I'm treating the DT with fluconizole for bryopsis. Is that correct?
 
Humblefish said:
For TTM, I would use a couple of 10 gals + dedicated equipment for each tank.

But if you were wanting to do hypo or copper I would probably use either a 20L or 29 gal. Same footprint, but the 29 gives you more water volume to protect against ammonia creeping up.
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@Humblefish I ended up getting a 40 breeder today from craigslist. So I guess I'll be doing the TTM with that and a 20 long.

Would you bother with prazi after doing a FW dip and finding no flukes?

Friday night is the end of treatment with Triple Sulfa, if the fin rot is completely gone I would move on to TTM but if there is still some lingering what would you recommend then? Would it be feasible to do another antibiotic treatment while doing the TTM? Or would the stress of the TTM be detrimental to the healing of the fin rot? It's just about gone on the pelvic fins but I still see it on the dorsal fin, so I'm worried it's not going to be 100% cleared up by Friday.
 
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Instigate said:
Would you bother with prazi after doing a FW dip and finding no flukes?
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No prazi needed if FW dip reveals no flukes.

Instigate said:
Friday night is the end of treatment with Triple Sulfa, if the fin rot is completely gone I would move on to TTM but if there is still some lingering what would you recommend then? Would it be feasible to do another antibiotic treatment while doing the TTM? Or would the stress of the TTM be detrimental to the healing of the fin rot? It's just about gone on the pelvic fins but I still see it on the dorsal fin, so I'm worried it's not going to be 100% cleared up by Friday.
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Once the fins have completely healed (and it has been at least 10 days of ABX), I would move on to food soaking vitamins and/or dosing the water with Vitamin C. When treating for an infection, at some point his nature immune system has to take over & finish it off.
 
Got the CBB and the goby into the 40 gallon today. No more meds hopefully. Just get through this TTM and get him in the DT asap. No more fin rot as far as I can see. Maybe a small amount still on the dorsal but I'm not 100% sure. The pelvic fins look perfect though.
 
So unfortunately the CBB is having more bacterial problems. I see his tail fin is very cloudy and I think I see a small amount of the white looking bacterial infection on his forehead. He only got the kana/metro/furan for one day, the first day. Should I dose that? Are there any other options? If I don't do something I don't think he'll get over it on his own.
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
I would treat with kana/metro/furan for 10-14 days. Unfortunately, you’re in this for the long haul now.
 
Humblefish said:
I would treat with kana/metro/furan for 10-14 days. Unfortunately, you’re in this for the long haul now.
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Dosed. I'll do whatever I am able to keep this guy alive. Thanks again, your guidance is invaluable.
 
How would the trifecta dosing change if I wanted to do daily large water changes? Like 50-75%. The way this fish makes a mess I have to do daily water changes to keep the water quality up. If I do a 50% WC then I should re-dose a 1/2 dose of each med? What if it's not a dose day for metro/kana?
 
Deltec
Instigate said:
How would the trifecta dosing change if I wanted to do daily large water changes? Like 50-75%. The way this fish makes a mess I have to do daily water changes to keep the water quality up. If I do a 50% WC then I should re-dose a 1/2 dose of each med? What if it's not a dose day for metro/kana?
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If doing more frequent water changes, still stick to the normal dosing regimen. Antibiotics don’t remain active in the water for long anyway, but the last thing you want to do is risk overdosing.
 
Humblefish said:
If doing more frequent water changes, still stick to the normal dosing regimen. Antibiotics don’t remain active in the water for long anyway, but the last thing you want to do is risk overdosing.
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Will do. Thanks!
 

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