Baffled in Phosphate and Nitrates.

robbrouse · Oct 22, 2013

So I had a break out of Cyanobacteria (red algae) I have cleaning it out and doing 2 10% water changes a week. Testing my Levels and Nitrates and Phosphates are been 0 on my API test kit.. So I figured it was my lit so I order a red sea kit and The same results.

Is Cyanobacteria not caused by nitrates and Phosphates?

Any help or idea would be great...

mike007 · Oct 22, 2013

I would not trust that test kit. Cyno is usually caused by phosphates and low flow. Increase your water flow and make sure your source water contains no phosphates. Also what type of lighting are you using?

robbrouse · Oct 22, 2013

The API and the Red Sea Test the same.. I'm using LED lighting.. I run GFO and the phosphates were 0 with the API and very low with the RED SEA. I keep adjusting my my power heads and seems like no matter what I'm either blow the heck out of my sand or missing something. Wish I could find good placemnt for them.. I have two 1500 GPH and one 750 GPH.

I was not sure the API was correct so I ordered the red sea test kits to make sure.

Headlessnwalkin · Oct 22, 2013

Are you running your led's @ 100%?

mike007 · Oct 22, 2013

Cyno is really strange my tank has been setup for over 10 years and every once in a while i will have a outbreak. I blow it off with a turkey baster and filter it out and then i don't see it for several months. My water parameters are right on and i have strong leds. But i think that it is caused by excess nutrients caused by overfeeding which i am guilty.

Headlessnwalkin · Oct 22, 2013

Understanding, my tank has been up and going for yrs. Now with no issues of cyano. That was until I switched to Led's (evergrow d120) I was all happy and went full bore 100% not thinking what I would ignite. I ended up with a good bloom of cyano. Your system will get used to itself and when you tweek it something will happen. I brought the percentages down a lot and it cleared up within a week or two now im running them 40 spectrum, 60 blues

robbrouse · Oct 22, 2013

Headlessnwalkin said:
Are you running your led's @ 100%?

[h=1]They are Kessil A150W - The are not adjustable.[/h]

Reefing Madness · Oct 23, 2013

What kind of flow does your tank have? You'd be surprised how many people don't have enough flow in the tank, and don't realize it.
Lil read here for you:
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/re...445-my-self-induced-cyanobacterial-bloom.html

beaslbob · Oct 23, 2013

robbrouse said:
So I had a break out of Cyanobacteria (red algae) I have cleaning it out and doing 2 10% water changes a week. Testing my Levels and Nitrates and Phosphates are been 0 on my API test kit.. So I figured it was my lit so I order a red sea kit and The same results.

Is Cyanobacteria not caused by nitrates and Phosphates?

Any help or idea would be great...

It is possible that algae, corals, and cyano are fully consuming the nitrates and phosphates.

I would kill the lights and stop feeding until the cyano dies off. Then start with 1/2 lighting (duration) and feedind and adjust so things thrive but the cyano doesn't come back.

my .02

robbrouse · Oct 23, 2013

I have a mag drive 9.5 I'd say running at 60% with a 3 feet head space and 2 1500 Power haed and 1 750 Power head. It's a 75 gallon tank.. It's not full blown cyano, it's patchy on the sand. Very little is on the rock.

I have been using Dr Tim's Waste away for the last 3 weeks and can't really time if it's helping or not. I only have soft coral in the tank. Feeding is pretty light. I've thought about carbon dosing, but don't really want to get into daily dosing and if I miss a day who knows what will happen.

mike007 · Oct 23, 2013

Carbon dosing is a great resource to keep nitrates and phosphates in check without worrying about am i overfeeding etc. When done properly it is a easy way to keep things in check. That doesn't mean you should avoid water changes and dumping large amounds of food into tank. There are lots of benifits to dosing that will help your corals grow. If you go to Redsea fish.com they have some excellent videos on carbon dosing that are easy to understand and will educate you to the benifits of dosing. And the good news its cheaper than other methods.

Reefing Madness · Oct 23, 2013

mike007 said:
Carbon dosing is a great resource to keep nitrates and phosphates in check without worrying about am i overfeeding etc. When done properly it is a easy way to keep things in check. That doesn't mean you should avoid water changes and dumping large amounds of food into tank. There are lots of benifits to dosing that will help your corals grow. If you go to Redsea fish.com they have some excellent videos on carbon dosing that are easy to understand and will educate you to the benifits of dosing. And the good news its cheaper than other methods.

pickupman66 · Oct 23, 2013

IMO the only way to accurately test for Phosphate is with the Hannah Checkers. after using them, I dont see any better way to get the job done.

Headlessnwalkin · Oct 23, 2013

When did you start using GFO, how much and what's the flow rate through the reactor? Can't GFO start a cyano bloom also?

robbrouse · Oct 23, 2013

GFO has been running for about 3 months.. Slow tumble.. Like the directions tells you too. I add about 1 cup and change it out ever 3 weeks. I have never heard of GFO causing cyano, can anyone else confirm this?

Reefing Madness · Oct 24, 2013

GFO is not the cause of your Cyano.

aakour · Dec 30, 2013

You can have cyano and other problem algae with 0 detectable nitrate and phosphate. The key here is DETECTABLE, if the cyano is consuming enough phosphates, they won't show up on a test, but are definitely present and fueling growth.