Baffles for a rubbermaid stock sump?

[burningmime]

I know many people use stock tanks (tubs) eg:

... for their sump. Is there an easy way (cheaper/easier than cutting acryllic in strange shapes and silicone) to separate areas of the sump? In particular, I want to run a UV between the overflow output and the return with a controlled flow rate so I'm not re-processing the same water over and over.

 

[Peace River]

@WVNed - any ideas to help with this question?

 

[WVNed]

I do not have any baffles in my sump. I used 2 stock tanks. A small one that drains into a big one. The small one has a constant water depth for my skimmer. My UV is installed in the drain from the small tank (40 gallon) to the big one.
4 drains from the tank enter the bottom of the small stock tank. 2 larger drains handle the flow into the big stock tank (100 gallon) that sits under it. My 80 watt UV is installed in a 2 inch full siphon drain controlled with a valve. Beyond the UV I have a siphon break so the unit will hold water if the power goes out. A second 2 inch drain has a standpipe that controls the water depth in the small stock tank

My ATO uses a float switch to read the level of the large tank. The 2nd skimmer in the bottom is used as an ozone reactor. It does not require a constant water depth to work.

 

[Billdogg]

What I did for mine was build an acrylic box to house the skimmer. The overflow from the FT runs to it and then just overflows into the sump. The rest of the sump is filled with LR because the FT is a barebottom, rockless setup with eggcrate to support the frags.

 

[Sleepydoc]

I do not have any baffles in my sump. I used 2 stock tanks. A small one that drains into a big one. The small one has a constant water depth for my skimmer. My UV is installed in the drain from the small tank (40 gallon) to the big one.
4 drains from the tank enter the bottom of the small stock tank. 2 larger drains handle the flow into the big stock tank (100 gallon) that sits under it. My 80 watt UV is installed in a 2 inch full siphon drain controlled with a valve. Beyond the UV I have a siphon break so the unit will hold water if the power goes out. A second 2 inch drain has a standpipe that controls the water depth in the small stock tank

My ATO uses a float switch to read the level of the large tank. The 2nd skimmer in the bottom is used as an ozone reactor. It does not require a constant water depth to work.

What I did for mine was build an acrylic box to house the skimmer. The overflow from the FT runs to it and then just overflows into the sump. The rest of the sump is filled with LR because the FT is a barebottom, rockless setup with eggcrate to support the frags.

This was my idea - baffles are used to divide the sump into separate compartments. you can accomplish the same thing by either having two separate tanks that drain into each other, or placing a 2nd smaller one completely within the first and having a ‘tank within a tank.’

It may be possible to cut a custom baffle to fit and silicone it in place but it would likely be fairly difficult, time consuming and involve a fair amount of trial and error. If you decide to go this route, I would use something like ¼” acrylic (you can also get PVC in sheet stock.) Start by cutting a template out of cardboard or ⅛” hardboard. A profile gauge will help get the corners, etc. The easiest route would probably be to create several smaller profiles for the edges, corners, etc and pieced them together to form a complete template.

 

[uhgster1]

If space isn’t a limiting factor I would definitely go with the different sized tubs draining into each other. That’s the whole point of a sump anyway, this just makes maintenance that much easier. It’s what I’m planning for my next fish room.

 

[JayLu]

I use the “tank within a tank” method. The first tank, which is just an old aquarium, keeps a constant water height and is also easy to add baffles to. I don’t have baffles in the Rubbermaid. it just has water and rocks. I personally like this method since it helps me to avoid leaks and floods.

 

[burningmime]

I do not have any baffles in my sump. I used 2 stock tanks. A small one that drains into a big one. The small one has a constant water depth for my skimmer. My UV is installed in the drain from the small tank (40 gallon) to the big one.
4 drains from the tank enter the bottom of the small stock tank. 2 larger drains handle the flow into the big stock tank (100 gallon) that sits under it. My 80 watt UV is installed in a 2 inch full siphon drain controlled with a valve. Beyond the UV I have a siphon break so the unit will hold water if the power goes out. A second 2 inch drain has a standpipe that controls the water depth in the small stock tank

My ATO uses a float switch to read the level of the large tank. The 2nd skimmer in the bottom is used as an ozone reactor. It does not require a constant water depth to work.

I see; thanks! Let me see if I can get enough space for something like that.

 

[biecacka]

You can also use the tank in a tank method to trap all your detritus. Then vacuum that tank to remove the debris during water changes.

corey

 

[botheboss]

I just tried this with mine. Silicone didn’t stick to the stock tank for whatever reason. It stick great to the acrylic. I’m gonna try to super glue hopefully it holds.

 

[jdiefenbaugh]

I've used Rubbermaids for 10+ years, and like everyone else mentioned, the 2 tank method is best. Silicone won't stick to them.

 

[botheboss]

I've used Rubbermaids for 10+ years, and like everyone else mentioned, the 2 tank method is best. Silicone won't stick to them.

You try any other types of reef safe glue?

 

[jdiefenbaugh]

You try any other types of reef safe glue?

I doubt anything will stick to them. Something would have to be mechanically fastened, which is why most people just use a separate tub for the skimmer.