MmmmBalf
Active Member
Hello all, thought I would start a build journal here, the friendliest reef forum on the net! (A little sucking up to start never hurts 
, plus, it's true!). This will be my first foray into saltwater, having had freshwater tanks in the past (mostly cichlids). I'm planning a mixed reef but eventually with more experience I want it to be SPS dominated.
I bought this tank second hand although it has never been used, so effectively it's new. The previous owner had the tank built and was in the process of setting it up as his second reef tank, when a change in circumstances forced him to give it up and sell it. So I got a new tank, stand and sump for a secondhand price
.
Display Tank: Custom built 5' x 2' x 2' (150g) or 1500 x 600 x 600 (550 litres) with right corner weir and herbie overflow.
Sump: Custom built 53.5" x 19.7" x 19.7" (65g) or 1360 x 500 x 500 (250 litres) with 5 compartments. That volume is the running volume, with the lowest baffle 14.5" high (37cm). Total capacity is higher ( 90g or 340 litres), which is a good thing, as there's quite a bit of back flow when the pump is off.
Stand/canopy: Custom wood stand. I'm not a huge fan of the stand. I've painted it black as that matches our furniture better, but our style is more contemporary. I might try doing something with the doors to modern it up (different colour inset??) I ditched the hood it came with and I'm going to build an open 3 sided canopy (pelmet style) to house the light.
Equipement:
Lighting: ATI Powermodule Hybrid 48" 8 x 54w T5 plus 3 x 75w LED
Skimmer: Orphek Helix 3000
Return: Ecotech Vectra M1
Circulation : Maxpect gyre XF250 (I may add another powerhead on the opposite side)
Still need to purchase ATO (planning on Tunze Osmolator 3155). Further down the track possible reactor/s and Apex controller. Equipment is expensive in Australia (an Apex controller is over $1100, and that's the classic, not the new one. Compared to (currency converted) about AU$700 in the US. :mad: Was thinking of getting the Seneye reef monitor first. Oh, and of course RODI unit next week (before I need to do any top ups).
I'm going to use natural salt water, which I think is more common in Australia than some countries (just about every marine LFS sells it). First tank fill I'm getting delivered this Friday - will be pumped straight into the tank. After that I'll purchase from LFS for water changes (about 90 litres for a standard change - 3 x 30 lt containers at $4 each, so $12 per change).
I'm also using dry rock and dry sand and will use Dr Tims bacteria to help kick off the cycle. Firstly I wanted to do the scape outside the tank dry, and secondly I didn't want any unwanted hitchhikers. Dry just seemed easier to me (not to mention cheaper!)
So, a few pics to finish this long first post.
Display tank: (note the return in the far corner is crooked due to bulkhead not being fitted at the time)
Intake plumbing (this was during fresh water testing with the water level at maximum after pump turned off. Normally the water level is below the top of the filter socks. 2 x LED strip lights for refugium).
Return plumbing.
Skimmer (Orphek Helix 3000)
Misc stuff
Rock
Thanks for reading (if you got this far). Any suggestions, compliments, criticisms etc are most welcome.
Balf
, plus, it's true!). This will be my first foray into saltwater, having had freshwater tanks in the past (mostly cichlids). I'm planning a mixed reef but eventually with more experience I want it to be SPS dominated.I bought this tank second hand although it has never been used, so effectively it's new. The previous owner had the tank built and was in the process of setting it up as his second reef tank, when a change in circumstances forced him to give it up and sell it. So I got a new tank, stand and sump for a secondhand price
. Display Tank: Custom built 5' x 2' x 2' (150g) or 1500 x 600 x 600 (550 litres) with right corner weir and herbie overflow.
Sump: Custom built 53.5" x 19.7" x 19.7" (65g) or 1360 x 500 x 500 (250 litres) with 5 compartments. That volume is the running volume, with the lowest baffle 14.5" high (37cm). Total capacity is higher ( 90g or 340 litres), which is a good thing, as there's quite a bit of back flow when the pump is off.
Stand/canopy: Custom wood stand. I'm not a huge fan of the stand. I've painted it black as that matches our furniture better, but our style is more contemporary. I might try doing something with the doors to modern it up (different colour inset??) I ditched the hood it came with and I'm going to build an open 3 sided canopy (pelmet style) to house the light.
Equipement:
Lighting: ATI Powermodule Hybrid 48" 8 x 54w T5 plus 3 x 75w LED
Skimmer: Orphek Helix 3000
Return: Ecotech Vectra M1
Circulation : Maxpect gyre XF250 (I may add another powerhead on the opposite side)
Still need to purchase ATO (planning on Tunze Osmolator 3155). Further down the track possible reactor/s and Apex controller. Equipment is expensive in Australia (an Apex controller is over $1100, and that's the classic, not the new one. Compared to (currency converted) about AU$700 in the US. :mad: Was thinking of getting the Seneye reef monitor first. Oh, and of course RODI unit next week (before I need to do any top ups).
I'm going to use natural salt water, which I think is more common in Australia than some countries (just about every marine LFS sells it). First tank fill I'm getting delivered this Friday - will be pumped straight into the tank. After that I'll purchase from LFS for water changes (about 90 litres for a standard change - 3 x 30 lt containers at $4 each, so $12 per change).
I'm also using dry rock and dry sand and will use Dr Tims bacteria to help kick off the cycle. Firstly I wanted to do the scape outside the tank dry, and secondly I didn't want any unwanted hitchhikers. Dry just seemed easier to me (not to mention cheaper!
)So, a few pics to finish this long first post.
Display tank: (note the return in the far corner is crooked due to bulkhead not being fitted at the time
)
Intake plumbing (this was during fresh water testing with the water level at maximum after pump turned off. Normally the water level is below the top of the filter socks. 2 x LED strip lights for refugium).
Return plumbing.
Skimmer (Orphek Helix 3000)
Misc stuff
Rock
Thanks for reading (if you got this far
). Any suggestions, compliments, criticisms etc are most welcome.Balf
. I get the same cloudy looking result every time I test, like it's not really a yellow like 0.25 but more like weak lemon cordial colour (if that makes sense, haha). A few days ago when I'd dosed the tank with another lot of ammonia, I tested about an hour later... same result. I tested next day, same. It's never looked different in over a week of testing. So yesterday I took some water into LFS and had it tested. They used API and came up with 0.50 ppm Ammonia. That was a couple days after last dose. I'm wondering if the Salifert test is a dud, even though it's within its expiry date. 
pH : 7.7 (a little low)
