Ball Valves on Bean Animal Overflow?

[nickkohrn]

I am preparing to drill an aquarium for a Bean Animal overflow configuration. I have had only reef-ready systems up to this point, so I need assistance with planning the placements of valves.

I understand that I will need a gate valve on the full-siphon drain, which makes sense. I have seen others use ball valves on their drain lines so that they can periodically test the overflow configuration to ensure that the emergency drain can handle the entire workload should the primary and secondary drains become blocked.

If I were to add one to the primary drain, then I would do it below the gate valve, and its purpose would be for testing so that I could leave the gate valve in the spot that creates the proper flow rate for the primary drain.

Do you have suggestions, thoughts, concerns?

 

[Sleepydoc]

I suppose you could, but the need to test the system in this manner is pretty infrequent. Why not use cover the drain with your hand or a PVC Cap?

 

[nickkohrn]

I suppose you could, but the need to test the system in this manner is pretty infrequent. Why not use cover the drain with your hand or a PVC Cap?

Honestly, I didn’t think of that. However, if I use a u-style implementation on the drains within the overflow box, then I won’t have the ability to easily cap them or block them with my hands. Would that make the need for ball valves more desirable?

I will gladly skip purchasing the valves if I can easily maintenance my system without them. This is my first time drilling and plumbing a system without prefabricated plumbing, so I want to ensure that I’m setting my system up for success.

 

[WVNed]

If I close the valve I count the turns so I can open it to the same place. Make a mark on the handle with a Sharpie.

 

[User1]

I have valves on each of the lines. I didn't use a gate. As already noted they are not needed and never used. I can say I've never used mine other than to test so it honestly was a wasted expense in both time and materials (when using quality valves that is).

 

[lapin]

I set up my first bean with 2 valves. Never did use the secondary. For testing I could see some convience in a valve on the second pipe. My bean now has easy to remove pipes so I can adjust the height by replacing a pipe or part or even put in a capped off pipe for testing.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Honestly, I didn’t think of that. However, if I use a u-style implementation on the drains within the overflow box, then I won’t have the ability to easily cap them or block them with my hands. Would that make the need for ball valves more desirable?

I will gladly skip purchasing the valves if I can easily maintenance my system without them. This is my first time drilling and plumbing a system without prefabricated plumbing, so I want to ensure that I’m setting my system up for success.

I was actually thinking of putting the cap on the distal end in the sump - it shouldn't matter where the pipe is occluded for testing purposes.

I've had my bean set up for 3 or so years now - I didn't put any valves in except the gate valve and have never missed them or felt the need to have them.

 

[hart24601]

I use PVC caps for testing drains like this, no need for extra valves.

 

[dadnjesse]

I would not put anything except a gate valve on the main drain for adjustment.

 

[ca1ore]

I have a ball valve below the gate of my siphon and then a ball valve on my secondary; both for testing purposes. I did upsize the ball valve because they can restrictive to flow, but otherwise they worked fine.

 

[fcmatt]

In the box outside for the drains I never glue the 3 pieces/drain pvc/whatever. I can adjust, cap, remove, etc anything in the box. All snug fitted. No need to glue that stuff.

 

[Sleepydoc]

In the box outside for the drains I never glue the 3 pieces/drain pvc/whatever. I can adjust, cap, remove, etc anything in the box. All snug fitted. No need to glue that stuff.

I can’t tell from your description exactly what you have glued vs friction fit, but the only fittings I’d recommend leaving unglued are those that you don’t mind leaking. If you’re talking about the connections inside an external overflow box then that’s be totally fine. The worst that could happen is a bit of air leaks into the siphon drain or some extra water leaks into the dry emergency.

 

[fcmatt]

I can’t tell from your description exactly what you have glued vs friction fit, but the only fittings I’d recommend leaving unglued are those that you don’t mind leaking. If you’re talking about the connections inside an external overflow box then that’s be totally fine. The worst that could happen is a bit of air leaks into the siphon drain or some extra water leaks into the dry emergency.

Yes. That is correct. Inside the box only. I wanted to make sure the op knew u did not have to glue those pieces. Especially if new and tweaking it. Also for any testing down the road.