Balling vs 2 part..?

Jakepen

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So right now I'm just using Randy's method to dose, which has been working. I just recently posted a thread, asking my why coral loses color. A few people suggested possibly adding strontium and potassium, which I may consider. Rick45 also suggested balling, which I'm unfamiliar with. How is it any different or better than just using a 2 part. Also I was looking at fauna Marin, they have trace elements you add to 2 part. Anyone know much about these? Do they add the strontium and potassium I require? Link posted below to BRS

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/calci...s/fauna-marin/fauna-marin-2-part-balling.html
(Threads are always better with pictures, even if they don't serve a purpose)
IMG_2657.JPG
 
I have 30 gallon cube with a hob filter and use the balling method. From my understanding it's more cost effective on smaller tanks but I could be wrong. As far as color I'm sure it's related to p04 and n03 levels with aminos too. Your salt should have trace elements in it and replenish when you do your water changes.
20160601_210653.jpg

There's my pc rainbow when I striped p04 and n03 but had calcium alk and mag at the prime levels.
20161012_183022.jpg

The second picture is when p04 was at
.03 and n03 at 5ppm. The same lighting was use(led o.r. t247) whites and blues on and same camera (sg7)
 
I have 30 gallon cube with a hob filter and use the balling method. From my understanding it's more cost effective on smaller tanks but I could be wrong. As far as color I'm sure it's related to p04 and n03 levels with aminos too. Your salt should have trace elements in it and replenish when you do your water changes.
20160601_210653.jpg

There's my pc rainbow when I striped p04 and n03 but had calcium alk and mag at the prime levels.
20161012_183022.jpg

The second picture is when p04 was at
.03 and n03 at 5ppm. The same lighting was use(led o.r. t247) whites and blues on and same camera (sg7)

My NO3 is right around 5ppm, PO4 is undetectable, I know it is present though.
 
Balling is 2 part plus trace elements. Aquaforest uses the Balling method. An it is widely used around the world.
Balling just helps give you a fully rounded dosing method. So you are not just dosing calcium and alk. Helping you maintain a level of trace elements in your tank also.
 
Balling is 2 part plus trace elements. Aquaforest uses the Balling method. An it is widely used around the world.
Balling just helps give you a fully rounded dosing method. So you are not just dosing calcium and alk. Helping you maintain a level of trace elements in your tank also.
If doing regular water changes, wouldn't that replenish the trace elements?
 
My NO3 is right around 5ppm, PO4 is undetectable, I know it is present though.
Sounds like everything is in order. I don't dose strontium or potassium in my tank. I'd say keep up with you parameters and give it time for the corals to color back up. Some say it takes corals months to regain color. As long as you have great polyp extension your on the right track.
 
Here are a bunch of posts on the Balling method link. I change my water less and less, with the balling method. the first part is your Ca Mg and and two element, second part is the Alk and on element, and three is the trace elements plus potassium in the brand that I use. I have this all setup on auto dosing and my system really has done well. I did have to adjust my doses for the reason it is suggested that one need to dose all three the same and my system absorbs Ca, Mg, and Alk at different rates. I do dose the third part the same as the Ca Mg part though.

Does this help?
 
If doing regular water changes, wouldn't that replenish the trace elements?
Each system absorbs at different rates. If one has a bunch of corals, the corals are going to require a lot of fuel, and this is where dosing/supplementing comes in after the water change water is depleted. I basically use a water change to export excess nutrients.
 
@Jakepen tell them your daily alkalinity uptake. I think your uptake may be higher than your waterchanges can likely keep up with, which is one of the reasons I thought the balling method might make a noticiable difference in your system.
 
You can add the Fauna Marine trace 1 2 & 3 to your 2 part. That would add all the trace elements you're talking about.
 
Thank you guys for all the input. Lately my alk consumption has been about 1dkh per 12 hours. Use to be more, but I've had a few setbacks. (Stripped nutrients on a couple occasions, and had a temp drop to 68 for 12 hours). And I have been a bit more laxed on water changes, trying to bring nutrients up. I guess I'm just trying to decide which direction to go from here, because I want to change up my method. I would like more growth and better color. So I'm debating wether I should just try and naturally bring up my NO3 and PO4, or dose brightwells neophos. If I should switch to balling, or simply add Funa Marin's trace elements to my simple 2 part.
 
If you add Fauna Marin trace 123 you'll be using the balling method. Just not using their expensive cal, ALk and mag.
 
The fauna marin trace 123 added to Randy's 2 part may be the ultimate winner! Randy's 2 part is much more concentrated and cheaper than what I am currently trying. You may have sold me too @Eggyoke!
 
With the trace from fauna, you add it directly to your 2 part. How do they know you won't be dosing to much of the trace elements? Or is it kind of based off of the consumption rate of your alk and cal?
 
The fauna Marin trace are based on consumption of ALk and cal. I would go off the BRS calculations when adding it to 2 part, other than fauna Marin's products. Fauna Marin's 2 part is more concentrated that BRS 2 part. Not sure about Randy's 2 part.
 

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