Bangai cardinal broodin
- Thread starter Garen
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If you want to raise them you're going to need to hatch brine shrimp for them daily and start up another tank for them to grow out in, I recommend a 20 long. It's also important to note that BBS alone is not the best source of nutrition, copepod nappuli are probably the best but you can also enrich the BBS with Selcon to increase the HUFA's in them which will in turn decrease sudden fright syndrome occurrences and should dramatically decrease or prevent mortality from those instances:
I recommend starting it 3-5 days before you think he's going to release(or more, I never stop, it's just a part of my tank chores now).
(My live food setup, the 10 gallon was a holding tank for blackworms for my CBB)
The male will hold the eggs anywhere from 23-30 days. I kept a pair of Banggais for about three years and raised every fry they produced. They're still alive I just sold them to someone with a larger tank, they seemed cramped in my 37 gallon.
(My mated pair)
My strategy is when the male is close to releasing I put in a bunch of fake sea urchins I made and remove mechanical filtration as well as making sure all pumps have foam guards to prevent fry from getting sucked into pumps, you'll know he's close because you will see the little baby fish trying to push their way out of the male's mouth in the few days before he lets them go. See below:
(Fry peaking out from my male's mouth)
My male always tended to release the fry in the hours before the lights turn on. But he's also started releasing just after they go out. The fry will tend to go to the sea urchins and especially the ones in lower flow areas. So it makes it so the other fish have a much harder time getting to them and groups them together for you to easily collect them. On several occasions I've turned the flow off and been able to just slowly lift the sea urchin up and the fry will travel up with the urchin, then I just put a net under and lift them out. Easy.
(Fake sea urchins made of epoxy and zip tie clippings)
I check just after lights out, middle of the night if I'm up, and first thing in the morning every day until they are released. Also, it's common for them to release over the course of a couple or a few days so don't assume he's empty until you see him eat again. As he releases them I snatch them up with a small net trying to damage a few corals as possible. And I put them into either a breeder net or a Tupperware with slits cut into it, just enough to provide some flow but not large enough for them to escape. I keep them in there for the first couple weeks or so before transferring to a 10 or 20 gallon of their own.
I'll also include a paper on breeding Banggai Cardinalfish:
I recommend starting it 3-5 days before you think he's going to release(or more, I never stop, it's just a part of my tank chores now).
(My live food setup, the 10 gallon was a holding tank for blackworms for my CBB)
The male will hold the eggs anywhere from 23-30 days. I kept a pair of Banggais for about three years and raised every fry they produced. They're still alive I just sold them to someone with a larger tank, they seemed cramped in my 37 gallon.
(My mated pair)
My strategy is when the male is close to releasing I put in a bunch of fake sea urchins I made and remove mechanical filtration as well as making sure all pumps have foam guards to prevent fry from getting sucked into pumps, you'll know he's close because you will see the little baby fish trying to push their way out of the male's mouth in the few days before he lets them go. See below:
(Fry peaking out from my male's mouth)
My male always tended to release the fry in the hours before the lights turn on. But he's also started releasing just after they go out. The fry will tend to go to the sea urchins and especially the ones in lower flow areas. So it makes it so the other fish have a much harder time getting to them and groups them together for you to easily collect them. On several occasions I've turned the flow off and been able to just slowly lift the sea urchin up and the fry will travel up with the urchin, then I just put a net under and lift them out. Easy.
(Fake sea urchins made of epoxy and zip tie clippings)
I check just after lights out, middle of the night if I'm up, and first thing in the morning every day until they are released. Also, it's common for them to release over the course of a couple or a few days so don't assume he's empty until you see him eat again. As he releases them I snatch them up with a small net trying to damage a few corals as possible. And I put them into either a breeder net or a Tupperware with slits cut into it, just enough to provide some flow but not large enough for them to escape. I keep them in there for the first couple weeks or so before transferring to a 10 or 20 gallon of their own.
I'll also include a paper on breeding Banggai Cardinalfish:
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OP
OP
Garen
Community Member
If you want to raise them you're going to need to hatch brine shrimp for them daily and start up another tank for them to grow out in, I recommend a 20 long. It's also important to note that BBS alone is not the best source of nutrition, copepod nappuli are probably the best but you can also enrich the BBS with Selcon to increase the HUFA's in them which will in turn decrease sudden fright syndrome occurrences and should dramatically decrease or prevent mortality from those instances:
I recommend starting it 3-5 days before you think he's going to release(or more, I never stop, it's just a part of my tank chores now).
(My live food setup, the 10 gallon was a holding tank for blackworms for my CBB)
The male will hold the eggs anywhere from 23-30 days. I kept a pair of Banggais for about three years and raised every fry they produced. They're still alive I just sold them to someone with a larger tank, they seemed cramped in my 37 gallon.
(My mated pair)
My strategy is when the male is close to releasing I put in a bunch of fake sea urchins I made and remove mechanical filtration as well as making sure all pumps have foam guards to prevent fry from getting sucked into pumps, you'll know he's close because you will see the little baby fish trying to push their way out of the male's mouth in the few days before he lets them go. See below:
(Fry peaking out from my male's mouth)
My male always tended to release the fry in the hours before the lights turn on. But he's also started releasing just after they go out. The fry will tend to go to the sea urchins and especially the ones in lower flow areas. So it makes it so the other fish have a much harder time getting to them and groups them together for you to easily collect them. On several occasions I've turned the flow off and been able to just slowly lift the sea urchin up and the fry will travel up with the urchin, then I just put a net under and lift them out. Easy.
(Fake sea urchins made of epoxy and zip tie clippings)
I check just after lights out, middle of the night if I'm up, and first thing in the morning every day until they are released. Also, it's common for them to release over the course of a couple or a few days so don't assume he's empty until you see him eat again. As he releases them I snatch them up with a small net trying to damage a few corals as possible. And I put them into either a breeder net or a Tupperware with slits cut into it, just enough to provide some flow but not large enough for them to escape. I keep them in there for the first couple weeks or so before transferring to a 10 or 20 gallon of their own.
I'll also include a paper on breeding Banggai Cardinalfish:
To be honest with u ive only been in the game about 9 months so still learnin. Last thing i excpected was this lol ive read they brood a lot.. im def not ready 4 this yet but mite look at it in future. Thanks for the adviceIf you want to raise them you're going to need to hatch brine shrimp for them daily and start up another tank for them to grow out in, I recommend a 20 long. It's also important to note that BBS alone is not the best source of nutrition, copepod nappuli are probably the best but you can also enrich the BBS with Selcon to increase the HUFA's in them which will in turn decrease sudden fright syndrome occurrences and should dramatically decrease or prevent mortality from those instances:
I recommend starting it 3-5 days before you think he's going to release(or more, I never stop, it's just a part of my tank chores now).
(My live food setup, the 10 gallon was a holding tank for blackworms for my CBB)
The male will hold the eggs anywhere from 23-30 days. I kept a pair of Banggais for about three years and raised every fry they produced. They're still alive I just sold them to someone with a larger tank, they seemed cramped in my 37 gallon.
(My mated pair)
My strategy is when the male is close to releasing I put in a bunch of fake sea urchins I made and remove mechanical filtration as well as making sure all pumps have foam guards to prevent fry from getting sucked into pumps, you'll know he's close because you will see the little baby fish trying to push their way out of the male's mouth in the few days before he lets them go. See below:
(Fry peaking out from my male's mouth)
My male always tended to release the fry in the hours before the lights turn on. But he's also started releasing just after they go out. The fry will tend to go to the sea urchins and especially the ones in lower flow areas. So it makes it so the other fish have a much harder time getting to them and groups them together for you to easily collect them. On several occasions I've turned the flow off and been able to just slowly lift the sea urchin up and the fry will travel up with the urchin, then I just put a net under and lift them out. Easy.
(Fake sea urchins made of epoxy and zip tie clippings)
I check just after lights out, middle of the night if I'm up, and first thing in the morning every day until they are released. Also, it's common for them to release over the course of a couple or a few days so don't assume he's empty until you see him eat again. As he releases them I snatch them up with a small net trying to damage a few corals as possible. And I put them into either a breeder net or a Tupperware with slits cut into it, just enough to provide some flow but not large enough for them to escape. I keep them in there for the first couple weeks or so before transferring to a 10 or 20 gallon of their own.
I'll also include a paper on breeding Banggai Cardinalfish:
That's understandable. But I would just say that while it is a bit of work it is a very rewarding endeavor. Also, I started breeding them in my first month of keeping any kind of aquarium at all so as long as you know the basics the rest is easily attainable. If you do decide to try raising the fry at some point feel free to contact me with any questions you may have.
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