Banggi Cardinalfish feeding causing nutient problem

I would appreciate it, if you were actually honest. It seems that you think that because I do consider dishonesty immoral that somehow I am to blame.

Everyone has a right to their opinion no matter it's immorality.


You have no more care about the odds that that fish has by taking it out of the LFS's tank putting in yours and then putting it back in the LFS's tank. You don't want to know what the odds of survival for that fish are, by doing what you are doing because you simply don't care. You can pretend all that you want but you posted this and stuck a gun to the head of the creature to get people to respond. The sad truth is that in all of your bluster, you know exactly what I am saying and your anger is simply that I made you look bad.

I am glad you got the advice you said that you needed. I hope that you continue to post so that maybe you can understand that the heavy hand you recieve in advice comes from many different posters, and is not because you are new to the hobby. I have read your other posts and it seems that there is a common thread in your posting.

With this I will move on.
Good.

Thanks for being unconstructive and self-righteous. I call out web bullying when I see it.

Thanks to other posters this fish will likely be happy and healthy. If I can't make it happy and healthy someone else will.

...bye
 
I feed 3-5x a day. Go through 4-5 cubes plus lots of pellets. 200g with about 20 fish. Fish should be fed a lot and often if your filtration can handle it. Feeding your fish will also feed your corals. Just have to balance big import of nutrients with big export. Having filter feeders appear in your tank is a good thing. It's maturity and biodiversity.

Honestly the issue could just be with how much I am feeding lol my female clown has a beer belly.

Might just need to feed a fraction of what I am, but all my research has told me whatever they can eat in 2 min twice a day or 5 min once a day.

I will try the rinse feed twice a day going forward and adjust from there.
That's the problem cut it back slowly and find the right balance. Some people have so much filtration and ways to export nutrients. That being said most new reefers over feed. Your fish won't starve with a fraction of that cube a day.
 
Spirobids are easily scraped off of anywhere you don't want them, and the sponge can be pulled off anywhere you don't want it. Neither of those organisms is going to do much to your tank, except exist and possibly not be great to look at.

You have no more care about the odds that that fish has by taking it out of the LFS's tank putting in yours and then putting it back in the LFS's tank. You don't want to know what the odds of survival for that fish are, by doing what you are doing because you simply don't care. You can pretend all that you want but you posted this and stuck a gun to the head of the creature to get people to respond. The sad truth is that in all of your bluster, you know exactly what I am saying and your anger is simply that I made you look bad.
This is pretty aggressive, and isn't helping matters. Rehoming an animal that you can't properly care for IS the appropriate response. It's not a good response here, because OP has other options, but acting like sending a fish back to the LFS is a death sentence isn't going to help anyone. Nobody's put a gun to the head of any animal, they've just been overly hasty in rehoming something.

For all we know, that cardinal will be bought tomorrow and stuck in someone's 300gal anthias display that gets fed half a dozen times a day. There's no reason to expect that it's doomed, and I'd be surprised if you have any reputable source that gives terrible odds for a rehomed fish doing well.
 
Spirobids are easily scraped off of anywhere you don't want them, and the sponge can be pulled off anywhere you don't want it. Neither of those organisms is going to do much to your tank, except exist and possibly not be great to look at.


This is pretty aggressive, and isn't helping matters. Rehoming an animal that you can't properly care for IS the appropriate response. It's not a good response here, because OP has other options, but acting like sending a fish back to the LFS is a death sentence isn't going to help anyone. Nobody's put a gun to the head of any animal, they've just been overly hasty in rehoming something.

For all we know, that cardinal will be bought tomorrow and stuck in someone's 300gal anthias display that gets fed half a dozen times a day. There's no reason to expect that it's doomed, and I'd be surprised if you have any reputable source that gives terrible odds for a rehomed fish doing well.
I agree, but I have seen a lot of threads on this forum of pest filter feeders over running everything. While they are harmless, I am just trying to head the issue off before it becomes a real problem.

Also I hear scraping White Spaghetti Sponge off just helps it spread. Best answer I have heard for mitigating nuisance filter feeders is to just reduce the ambient nutients in the tank. Which I plan to do with more controlled feeding and the great advice I have got so far.

Most experienced hobbyist on this forum the problem seems to go away on its own and the tank naturally balances itself out.


Thanks for you input.

The spiroid thing is brand new, and I am actually excited to see so many of them. I just don't want THOUSANDS of them lol
 
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Would you rehome to Petco, or a pet store 3 hours away? Sorry I am not really believing there are multiple 300g tanks in Wyoming. What would you say if you were at your local hobby group and someone said this? Would you be kind after hearing them say things that you knew weren't true and then boast ...

or


Would you think that a Bangai might eat some sort of vegetable type food? Do you think that you might find that information by doing any kind of searches online?

Please read carefully, you may have missed a few things.

It seems that shaming me publicly isnt't helping matters either not sure why you did it.
More hobbyists here than you think. Already linked up with a guy that has a 200 gallon tank and we plan on trading corals and he gives me great advice.

You know you sound very angry and bitter? Lol

Thought you were leaving?

Or do you finally have something constructive to add? Or am I still just a liar to soothe your ego?

Continue to waste your time on this thread if you want, but I have no idea why.
 
I have been using this stuff every day since I bought fish. 4 day rotation, bit of eat different type of feed each day. I pull the cube out and shake it out between my fingers in the water till enough has melted off to feed the gluttons for about 2-4 minutes. I never use a whole cube, not even half most days. This also leaves a cloud of nutients behind. Its all my cardinal will eat though. He hates the green medley though lol
PXL_20220721_030440563.jpg
experimented with the flakes and pellets cause it's so messy.

Definitely will just start cutting off a little chunk and rinsing it first, but what do you guys rinse frozen fish feed in?
You can use tap water. I used to put the thawed food into a coffee filter and let it drain, then add tap or RODI and let it drain again.
You can also just thaw in a cup and pick the meat out with tweezers to add it to the tank, without rinsing.
 
You can use tap water. I used to put the thawed food into a coffee filter and let it drain, then add tap or RODI and let it drain again.
You can also just thaw in a cup and pick the meat out with tweezers to add it to the tank, without rinsing.
It's insane that you said this cause I just thought a coffee filter would be the the easiest way to do this after everyone else's advice for feeding lol. Bit of frozen food, pour RODI till it melts down, put in tank, throw out the filter. Not even an extra minute of feeding time.

Would have to test my tap water out here though before I use it. My only concern is stuff like copper and fluoride. No idea what they use to sterilize it, but I rinse my hands off with it every time before I do tank maintenance and no issues so far.
 
It's insane that you said this cause I just thought a coffee filter would be the the easiest way to do this after everyone else's advice for feeding lol. Bit of frozen food, pour RODI till it melts down, put in tank, throw out the filter. Not even an extra minute of feeding time.

Would have to test my tap water out here though before I use it. My only concern is stuff like copper and fluoride. No idea what they use to sterilize it, but I rinse my hands off with it every time before I do tank maintenance and no issues so far.
RODI would be best, but a tiny amount of tap won't hurt anything.
As for the troll on this thread, he's often rude and nasty, so just ignore him.
 
I think you’re on point with a half a cube feeding per day but I would switch to either hikari mysis, frozen/live brine shrimp or both. As mentioned, PE mysis are pretty big and on a side note, man are they greasy! I’ve never understood the “2 minute” feeding rule because honestly, I’d have to quadruple how much I feed now and they’d likely be stuffed within the first minute and wouldn’t touch the leftovers on the bottom.
 
When I've rinsed a cube, I drop it in a brine shrimp net, stick it under the faucet, and in 30 seconds it's melted. Tap the net on the sink a couple of times to knock off any extra water and feed. Having said that, BRS said rinsing isn't worth it for NO3/PO4.

Never had a Banggai eat anything but frozen. I think mine would starve before eating a pellet. Mysis is the favorite, with fish eggs second.
 
You guys are just mean... this individual is trying to learn the hobby. Purchase a brine hatchery and start making baby brine every other day to suppliment the frozen food. Frozen food isnt bad. Just keep up with clean water and the fish will be happy!
+1 anytime I see somebody having a fish with eating problems I always say live baby brine shrimp! No fish even the most finicky will turn up live baby brine shrimp bouncing around in the tank. And they are very meaty and healthy at those first few days for the fish with the yolk sack still around the brine shrimp
 
RODI would be best, but a tiny amount of tap won't hurt anything.
As for the troll on this thread, he's often rude and nasty, so just ignore him.
The good on this forum always far outweighs the bad.

I'll experiment with the advice given so far and see how it goes in a week or two. I'd be happy as long as the sponges and worms just don't creepy much further than they are.
 
+1 anytime I see somebody having a fish with eating problems I always say live baby brine shrimp! No fish even the most finicky will turn up live baby brine shrimp bouncing around in the tank. And they are very meaty and healthy at those first few days for the fish with the yolk sack still around the brine shrimp
Weird, but your description makes me hungry lol
 
If you invest in a brine shrimp hatchery which are around 20$ give or take and you hatch some out you will see a whole different side of your fish. I had a green clown goby that would not eat pellets, frozen food as I target fed him these things and he still didn't take them but once I put in some live baby brine he went crazy and started chasing them around the tank. Trust me on the live baby brine. It's worth the research and investment.
 
If you invest in a brine shrimp hatchery which are around 20$ give or take and you hatch some out you will see a whole different side of your fish. I had a green clown goby that would not eat pellets, frozen food as I target fed him these things and he still didn't take them but once I put in some live baby brine he went crazy and started chasing them around the tank. Trust me on the live baby brine. It's worth the research and investment.
Solid backup plan if the advice given fails. Also probly give the fish some more stimulation.

Not to sound stupid, but is this like raising seamonkeys as a kid? Lol aren't those just brine shrimp? Just add water and they grow?
 
Yes brine shrimp are aka sea monkeys lol. But yea add some tank water or there is a brand I can't think of it off the tip of my head I can snap a picture for you that comes pre made. You just open the pack and pour it into your hatchery it has the amount of salt needed and the brine shrimp eggs as of course they need salt water to hatch not just regular water and a light source.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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