Bare Bottom- HDPE | Starboard | ABS

[infinite0180]

Sorry guys, i just read through this whole thread and im still not sure what exactly i should buy? Also, where from? can somebody post a link to the best stuff? Thanks!

 

[Why-Me]

King Starboard | Starboard Plastic Sheets | Boat Outfitters

King Starboard is the leading marine-grade plastic sheet material you can trust. It’s UV and moisture, meaning these starboard plastic sheets will never fade!

www.boatoutfitters.com

Seafoam looks to be a great color to mimic the look of sand.

 

[infinite0180]

Anybody ever use this before?

1/2" Thick Black Custom Cutting Board

Get a 1/2" thick black custom cutting board, tailored to your size. NSF, FDA, USDA approved, durable, hygienic, color-coded, and Made in the USA.

www.cuttingboardcompany.com

 

[member 99594]

Hey all. Read through this thread, but a quick question about a specific product.

Can the product image attached work?

 

[don_chuwish]

On my most recent builds I used 1/16" black ABS bought on Amazon. Cheaper than HDPE (Starboard) and bonds to the glass with silicone better than HDPE did.

 

[member 99594]

I was hoping to use 1/2” thick and not going to silicon.

The scape should hold it down in a 60 gallon cube.
(24”x24”)

I’d like to do white.

 

[don_chuwish]

My only concern is whether or not it'll lay perfectly flat - and what kind of gunk will get under it over time. Even if going BB you'll have grit from the rocks swirling around that is likely to get trapped between it and the glass. That plus trapped detritus...

 

[member 99594]

So if that is the case 1/4 white abs would work better than the 1/2 HDPE. I have heard silicone sticks better to abs

 

[don_chuwish]

So if that is the case 1/4 white abs would work better than the 1/2 HDPE. I have heard silicone sticks better to abs

Yep. Could even go thinner - 1/8" is plenty to keep the pointy rocks off the glass.

 

[member 99594]

Yep. Could even go thinner - 1/8" is plenty to keep the pointy rocks off the glass.

Hmm. I was hoping it would distribute the weight of the two base points of my rock structure that’s why I was thinking 1/4 or 3/8

 

[don_chuwish]

Really no need to distribute the weight. Honestly no need for anything to be honest - the glass can handle it fine. We just feel better putting something down.

 

[member 99594]

Really no need to distribute the weight. Honestly no need for anything to be honest - the glass can handle it fine. We just feel better putting something down.

Would a piece of 1/4 white acrylic work fine? I am going for the look of the white bottom.

 

[don_chuwish]

Acrylic would be fine. I'd say either ABS or acrylic but most go with ABS. This is what I used:
I see they also have a white version:

 

[Reefahholic]

I did use starboard again, I personally think it's one of the best materials you can use, just a little pricey. The place I ordered it from also routed the edges so they are curved on both the top and bottom. I personally measured the distance between the silicone, so that the board will come very close, but not rest on the seam. This does leave a small channel between the glass and starboard. Personally I don't mind it. It fills with detritus, but I just suck it out on water changes.

Exactly what I did. Keeps the board flat and flush on the bottom. The best way is to silicone the bottom of the tank with RTV 108 (Clear) about 2” from the edge of the tank’s silicone all the way around. Then do a nice zig-zag down the middle. Place your board down on the bottom flush about 1” from all the sides and not touching the tank silicone bead at the bottom. Cut it 1/16 of an inch from the bottom silicone bead so that it’s “laying flat” and doesn’t “ride up” on the tank silicone bead which will make it bow or unlevel. After it’s in, press it down good and add some weight (rocks, dumbbells, etc.) on top and let it FULLY CURE for as long as needed. Check your cure times for “bead size used.” Uncured silicone can nuke a tank. If you have to wait a week so be it. Using Translucent or Clear silicone prevents you from having to do clean up work. If you use black silicone and it gets all over your white starboard just imagine how fun that will be cleaning up for the next 8 hours. Clear will easily blend in. If you go 2” from the corners it should almost squeeze out and prevent detritus from getting under it. Not much will get under it anyway. You can always put a small bead around the edges and smear it in, but it’s hard to get to the edges because they’re next to the glass. Silicone doesn’t adhere well, but it’s enough to keep it down especially when your Aquascape is on top.

 

[Reefahholic]

So if that is the case 1/4 white abs would work better than the 1/2 HDPE. I have heard silicone sticks better to abs

ABS will work just fine.

 

[Reefahholic]

Here’s how to prep it. Remember...you’re not trying to make a “structural bond.” We just want it to lay down and prevent detritus from getting under it.”

Note: You don’t have to silicone or glue it, but if you want to this is a good way to prep the starboard.

 

[Reefahholic]

Here’s what it looks like underneath. I had it cut so that it’s about 1-1.5” from all panels. You don’t want it to ride up on your silicone. It’s better if it lays flat. Flame polish the side you want to silicone and it will adhere no problem.

*Tip*
Make sure to put weight on top all the way around and it will come out beautifully. Otherwise it will bow. Learn from my mistake. Also, use clear silicone so that if it gets squeezed out you can’t see it. I’d clean it up before it dries though. You can stop the silicone about 2” from the edge of the Starboard so that when it gets pressed down it won’t squeeze out. 1/4” thickness was about perfect.

 

[Saltees]

There are HDPE made from virgin grade, food grade granules. Typically the black ones have 2% carbon in them for UV resistance. I would stick with the HDPE made for the containment of potable water tested to AS/NZS 4020 : 2005, BS 6920:2014 or SS 375:2015.

 

[Reefahholic]

Hello I just wanted to update this thread. I’ve been having weird issues with my rock. I’m starting to think that maybe the guy treated it with something or maybe it’s the starboard.

I did reach out to the place that I bought it from, and they reached out to the manufacturer, and here is what they said.

Let me know if you guys think that maybe it could be the starboard that’s causing the issues.

Hi Jared!

I just spoke with the quality control manager of King Plastics. Here is the information they are able to provide! The resin's, colors, and material that King Starboard is made from is designed based on those materials that are already proven to be environmentally stable and resilient. They do not treat it with any special chemicals after the sheets have been formed, their environmental resilience comes from the specific resins and material used for the sheets. It is also designed and manufactured to be complete stable during use and no residue is left or emitted while working with this material. Do you mind if I ask what the application is you're planning to use King Starboard for that this was a concern for you?

Thanks!
Katie Smith
(407)993-7140
Available Mon-Fri; 8am-4:30pm EST

@Randy Holmes-Farley

 

[Saltees]

HDPE, as long as its the regular one without additives such as flame retardants, anti microbial, should be inert. I have had the followings in my tank with NO issues... HDPE, LDPE, PP, PVDF and ECTFE. My issue with PE/PP is that they float.