basement lift station questions

[Devaji]

as part of the new house reno I would like to add a sewage lift station not only for the fish room but future proofing encase we fisnsh the basement.

question is have is.
I will have a med, size fish room there where the mixing station will be and other normal fish 'stuff" should i be looking at a plastic sewage pump or will the normal cast iron be ok?
my thoughts are the SW could rust the cast iron more quickly and a possible failure point. I will be setting up a AWC system where about 1.5-2 gallon a day will be dumped in to the much sink also RODI wastewater.

 

[User]

I use a regular cast iron ejector pump for the exact same application- what I do is 'chase' any saltwater that goes down there with 6 gallons of tap water. My bucket is 3 gallon capacity so that's two pump activations.

I still open it up and give the pump a quick scrub down every 3 months. Otherwise, the float tends to stick a little and I get some 'backup' that can come out of the fittings.

Going on 18 months and thevrust that's in it is pretty much cosmetic. I'm sure I'll get 5+ years out of it

 

[User]

 

[User]

Also- if you have a one way valve on the outflow plumbing- since your not using it to eject sewage, you don't need a one way air /studor vent on the bucket. In fact- I couldn't get mine to work properly if I did that. I left one of the top input holes open other than RO flush line (yellow in above pic) and I haven't had any smells come out n 18 months. The water that's left in the pipe above the one way valve acts as a barrier like in a u-trap

 

[JDnKY]

Next to my sewage lift in my basement is the sump pump. I chose to drain all water into the sump to keep the saltwater out of my septic system. We have a 100’, 4 inch drain taking it away from the house. Whenever I drain saltwater I make RODI water and the waste from that rinses the saltwater from my sump.

 

[User]

Next to my sewage lift in my basement is the sump pump. I chose to drain all water into the sump to keep the saltwater out of my septic system. We have a 100’’, 4 inch drain taking it away from the house. Whenever I drain saltwater I make RODI water and the waste from that rinses the saltwater from my sump.

The good ole "pump and chase"!

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

Just buy a plastic one so that your not just pouring water down the drain.

 

[User]

Just buy a plastic one so that your not just pouring water down the drain.

I mean- I'm not dumping unused water down there to chase the sw. Water change day I'm cleaning up a bunch of stuff that got used during the week, so it's like half the water I use for cleaning testing containers, brine shrimp hatcheries, cleaning 5g tanks etc

 

[Devaji]

Just buy a plastic one so that your not just pouring water down the drain.

i think this might be the way I am gonna go. with a AWC a gallon to two a day will be dumped on to the basin the float switch will not kick on for 10ish gallon so lets say 5 days if no other water is used that measn the puck could set there in SW for days.

waynee makes a thermoplastic ejector pump prob. just get that. hopefully it last 5-10 years

 

[Devaji]

Also- if you have a one way valve on the outflow plumbing- since your not using it to eject sewage, you don't need a one way air /studor vent on the bucket. In fact- I couldn't get mine to work properly if I did that. I left one of the top input holes open other than RO flush line (yellow in above pic) and I haven't had any smells come out n 18 months. The water that's left in the pipe above the one way valve acts as a barrier like in a u-trap

I am not now but in the future we might finish the basement so while the reno going on we are gonna cut and put it in the floor.

 

[Reef-junky]

Is it cheaper to just buy an air pump?