Basement sump plumbing

Murph710

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Been a long time since I had a tank and want to run this basic drawing and idea past everyone. I want to run 80-120g display tank on first floor and sump in basement. The main issue I have is the sump will not be under the main tank and would roughly be 7-10 feet away. I have a basic drawing and trying to figure out if it’s a good start to plan or setting my self up for disaster. Need to also figure out what side and how many drains and what size return to run and what size pump to push water this far. Any help is appreciated.
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Looks good to me. I would say (3) 1-1.5" drain lines in a Bean Animal for the supply, and a strong enough pump to maintain your desired flow with ~10' of return head pressure.
 
I am not sure on flow, this will be a fish only tank. I need to do more research and get more input on this. I am sure I will lose allot of flow by the time it makes it to the display tank.
 
I use a Reeflo hammerhead gold for my pump which is also in sump. My sump is 125 gallons connected by gravity to a 75 gallon fuge. Main tank which is on 1st floor is 240 gallons. If I had my choice I would of went with a internal pump. Only one rated for the flow rate I want is a abyzz. There prices are out of my range though. Awesome pumps
 
I agree with @dugthefish I would go 1"-1.5" on a bean animal system. I personally would monst likely choose 1.5" if you go with the 120 because im paranoid. I would like 1 drain alone to handle more than 100% of the flow on its own and I like lots of turnover. So even at a 10x turnover on a 120 one drain could handle the flow.
 
For a return I was thinking about the COR-20, looks like you can really dial that thing in for flow.
 
Hi, I'm planning exactly the same thing. Sump and equipment in the basement and aquarium in the hallway.
If I calculate the friction of all the elbows, height and piping and still want to ensure the possibility of a good flow (6 times the tank volume an hour), it seems I will be needing a strong pump with high wattage. Just the electricity consumption already scared me.
 
Hi, I'm planning exactly the same thing. Sump and equipment in the basement and aquarium in the hallway.
If I calculate the friction of all the elbows, height and piping and still want to ensure the possibility of a good flow (6 times the tank volume an hour), it seems I will be needing a strong pump with high wattage. Just the electricity consumption already scared me.
Spend the money on a good pump up front, and it will save you money on the electric bill down the road.
 
For a return I was thinking about the COR-20, looks like you can really dial that thing in for flow.

I am running a COR-20 on my system with my basement sump closer then what you are planning and its JUST barely pushing 340 gph which I am reading through a flow monitor. With that number cross referenced to the COR-20 flow rate graph I estimate I have about 16ft of head pressure. So with your setup I don't think the COR-20 will cut it honestly. The only internal pump that might work for you and get you around 300-400gph would be the EcoTech L1 (I think thats the biggest one?). Or I would recommend going with an external unit like the Hammerhead, those things are beasts!
 
I have a similar setup with a cor 20. I used flexible pvc to avoid right angle fittings.
 
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Just avoid horizontal runs. Even a slight slope will avoid any air lock problems. Hard to avoid physics here. Most of the popular DC pumps are designed for flow versus pressure - easier to market with a bigger number I imagine. You’ll get lousy performance out of vectra, COR, etc. For a tank that size, I’d personally look to the magnet driven pumps like iwaki or pan world.
 
For me the Abyzz a400 was the only choice, about 12' up from basement sump to display.

Its pricey but has been flawless for the year I have had it and a 10 year piece of mind is worth it. Also the variable speed makes it easy to fine tune the exact amount of flow you want without wasting power with a ball valve.

It is nearly silent too, but I dont really care about that since there is already other equipment in the basement making noise.
 
I use a Reef Octopus Varios 8 as my return pump with approximately 15' of head pressure on a 120G, very similar to your setup. I have a flow meter showing around 530 GPH. It's completely silent, and I love the built-in float sensor and 12V connectivity.

Obivously i'm only getting 20% of the pumps rated flow, but it's good for 5X turnover which is more than enough. If I had the funds I'd definitely upgrade to the Abyzz, but I'd rather spend $1500 on livestock.

I'd also recommend building a higher stand in the basement for your sump if you have the capability. it' makes it super easy for maintenance and will also shave some head pressure off if you can do it. My sump is 50" off the ground.
 
For me the Abyzz a400 was the only choice, about 12' up from basement sump to display.

Its pricey but has been flawless for the year I have had it and a 10 year piece of mind is worth it. Also the variable speed makes it easy to fine tune the exact amount of flow you want without wasting power with a ball valve.

It is nearly silent too, but I dont really care about that since there is already other equipment in the basement making noise.

I'm using an abyzz a200 on my current system and it's been awesome for 3+ years. I'm considering the a400 for my next project. What's the diameter and total length of pipe from your a400 to the tank? Do you split your return pipe at some point (maybe under the tank)? Thanks!
 
I'm using an abyzz a200 on my current system and it's been awesome for 3+ years. I'm considering the a400 for my next project. What's the diameter and total length of pipe from your a400 to the tank? Do you split your return pipe at some point (maybe under the tank)? Thanks!

I used all 2" piping from the pump to the display (until it spits into two .75" flex hoses under the tank) to reduce head pressure. Just before the pump i have a neptune flowmeter, a 2" ball valve, and a 2" wye check valve. I know they say don't trust check valves, but I believe when you get into the bigger ones they are more reliable simply from the greater weight of the plunger. The ball valve is a must to prevent backflow if i want to service the check valve.
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the reeflo pressure rated pumps are good too - I have one in service for 8 years now (baldour motor). Calculate the head pressure from your plumbing and you can find the flow rate chart on the pump website. The horizontal run for your drain line is the biggest issue. The right amount of slope in it will be important.
 
I used all 2" piping from the pump to the display (until it spits into two .75" flex hoses under the tank) to reduce head pressure. Just before the pump i have a neptune flowmeter, a 2" ball valve, and a 2" wye check valve. I know they say don't trust check valves, but I believe when you get into the bigger ones they are more reliable simply from the greater weight of the plunger. The ball valve is a must to prevent backflow if i want to service the check valve.

Thank You ! Very nice installation !
 

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