I would make sure it has a cover. A single humidifier won't cut it with this size tank otherwise and if you are in a location with seasonal temperatures and your furnace does not run for weeks that will help mold grow with lack of air exchange.
Basement waterproofing
- Thread starter WvAquatics
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Freenow54
Valuable Member
That is what I did for a living. AC is a dehumidifier once humidity is removed it will bring the actusll temp down therfore set the AC thermostat and leave it ALONE
Personally I dont see a problem there been in HVAC for 26 years
Freenow54
Valuable Member
Don't mix up the term when you go shopping it is a dehumidifier you want. When you run the AC its function is to dehumidify . A HRV as mentioned earlier works on heat mode, but be aware all it does regardless of claims as to recovering heat NOT is to equal humidity to prevent condensation on windows of heavy insulated homes. Myself I would just use a floor type if noise is not a factor
Dehumidifiers need to be drained, use a lot of electric and generate heat.
Plastic sheeting and the likes can trap moisture behind.
Exhaust fans waste energy because they evacuate conditioned air (heated and/or cooled). You should also have a vent coming in if you have one going out so you don’t start pulling air down through the furnace, clothes dryer, range hood.
ERV (energy recovery ventilator) is the way to go.
Not humidity related but drain lower than the tank will be helpful big time.
Plastic sheeting and the likes can trap moisture behind.
Exhaust fans waste energy because they evacuate conditioned air (heated and/or cooled). You should also have a vent coming in if you have one going out so you don’t start pulling air down through the furnace, clothes dryer, range hood.
ERV (energy recovery ventilator) is the way to go.
Not humidity related but drain lower than the tank will be helpful big time.
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WvAquatics
Valuable Member
Yes I plan to have a drain put in to drain the dehumidifier in and also for water changes. I will look into hrv and erv for the basement. Great info everyone thanks
Freenow54
Valuable Member
I se they are now calling HRV's ( heat recovery ventilation ) ERV energy recovery ventilation they are the same thing. If they listen to you and spend 500 plus for a box with a fan and filters in it I am sure they will be pleased with you. Yes they expel heat outside as well, and not used in the summer as you do not want to bring in humid air. Only in business 26 years what do I know
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get a tight fitting glass top to limit air exchange from the tank. use the dehumidifier in your cabinet.
Apparently you don’t know how they work. They are different. With an hrv the temp of the indoor air is transferred to the outdoor air coming in. It offers an equal balance of air coming in with air going out with less loss of indoor tempered air because of the transfer process. Erv takes it a step further by being able to control humidity too. While it’s true, depending on the season (outside temp) and the humidity level as compared to inside/outside, that an hrv is better at lowering humidity, and ERV better at raising it. At least with an ERV you can control it, with hrv you can’t. But agree, should probably leave this to a local professional. One that actually knows what they’re talking about
Freenow54
Valuable Member
I stand corrected have not seen one. Just read about them now. Will ask my friend who is still in the business. I am retired now. I have an HRV does what its supposed to do at my expense. Just don't trust manufacturer claims
Both hrv and ERV have an upwards of 70% recovery rate. Meaning 70% or more of the indoor tempered air is transferred to the incoming air. In a warmer climate an hrv probably a better choice. In a colder climate an erv. I’m in the northeast and went with an erv. Can’t explain how much more enjoyable the house is with constant fresh air in the house. A tangible difference.
Again, the biggest factor is balancing air in/air out. I used to use an exhaust fan in my basement. When all the windows and doors were closed in the house it would actually cause air to be pulled down the chimney and trip the spill over switch on the boiler, shutting the heat.
AlexG
Valuable Member
The plastic on the ceiling makes it easy to monitor the floor above and if I need to access I can just cut a small hole and patch it. If you have any questions on the plywood build feel free to ask. Its really important with this much water in a home to monitor humidity in several areas of the home along with the amount of evaporation/day/week. It better to spend the time and money upfront to protect from humidity because if the damage is already done the costs to mitigate will be really high.
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WvAquatics
Valuable Member
With all the replies and advice. I'm just going to bite the bullet and have a professional come and direct me to the best option between hrv or erv. I live in WV so I get humid summers and cold winters. So I can get a pro to help with that and explore options for ventilation.
Let us know how you make out. Sometimes the simplest solution is best, sometimes not. If it’s a newer house and well insulated, a ventilation recovery unit is a good investment, fish room or not
old salt reefer
Valuable Member
I'm screwed. All my tanks are in the basement as is the shower that puts more water vapor into the air in one day than the tanks do in one week. The only time I have to run a dehumidifier is when I'm not running heat or air. So mostly in the spring or fall. The only place mold grows is in the shower if I don't clean it with bleach every couple of months(again mostly in the spring or fall). It's been like this for at least 5 years so when can I expect the mold to start growing else where?
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WvAquatics
Valuable Member
I would expect that if molds in the shower every few months it's somewhere else.
This is why I am getting a few thoughts before I speak with a professional who tries to charge me for redundant things.
I was looking and have crawlspace that leads outdoors and the window. I could try to intake and exhaust air from each so I can keep good air movement.
Then a 100 pint dehumidifier in sump area that will probably be a 350 gallon stock tank. This is where the heat will be. Also a large waterfall algea scrubber.
Im looking into vapor proof or even led strip lights. Again fish only no corals just need lights to see fish. I can then enclose the tank fully. Maybe a hydroponic fan to blow air along top of tank. And out an exhaust into sump section and de humidifier.
Lastly I might get some marine epoxy and paint any exposed ductwork.
Tyvek the whole ceiling. Have an erv system installed by a good hvac company. Maybe a good dehumidifier for backup and a direct to outside fan with makeup air also installed on a humidistat. Should be good after that
Freenow54
Valuable Member
Since I was a service tech word of advice. Do not have a sales Person come to your home. Go to a local HVAC business, and talk to the owner smaller the better. I don't want to muddy the water any further but use some logic it goes way further. All the talk about balancing the air, and 70 % recovery rate is marketing hype. I have all the tools to perform that. It is like getting a hair cut. Good for that day in that application. Setting up furnaces, and an AC system is a different topic. Just go outside on a cold clear day. It is cold, and dry. Go outside on a cloudy cold day it is cold, and humid. So how can you balance an HRV or a ERV for changing weather conditions. I do agree you will get an air exchange. On the clear day your home will defiantly be dry. Any way good luck Just being a SD here I think theMeat is in sales lol
