Battling nitrates, carbon dosing, need advice

[Klyle]

I'm confused by this - I have around 250lbs of LR in the display and another 50 in the sump. How will adding these help the bio filtration? I'd argue I have a lot but willing to learn what other options are

I think a large ceramic brick would be a better option. You want something that can provide anaerobic zones…anaerobic bacteria are necessary to convert nitrate to nitrogen. Depending on what kind of rock you have, you probably already have these zones present

 

[Biff0rz]

I think a large ceramic brick would be a better option. You want something that can provide anaerobic zones…anaerobic bacteria are necessary to convert nitrate to nitrogen. Depending on what kind of rock you have, you probably already have these zones present

Right, I started with dry rock (hence uglies/dino) but there's a lot of pourus areas. So if you're saying I have these zones I'm not sure how the bio brick will help it more

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Right, I started with dry rock (hence uglies/dino) but there's a lot of pourus areas. So if you're saying I have these zones I'm not sure how the bio brick will help it more

It might help 3-4 months down the road, but likely won't do anything right now. You have plenty of nitrifying bacteria; DEnitrification zones take a while to develop and using specialized media can help. I've never used bio bricks so I can't speak to their effectiveness, but when I started my first saltwater tank, I dumped an entire large bottle of Matrix into a media bag and put it in my sump. My thought was that I could pull a handful or 2 out whenever I needed to cycle the quarantine tank (since I didn't plan to have it set up continuously). Long story short, after the initial cycle, for the first 6-9 months, I had no measurable nitrates. None. At all. One of my mentors told me I probably had a very efficient denitrification system with all the Matrix. Once I reduced the amount (by about 2/3!) then I did see some nitrates.

 

[Peace River]

Friendly reminder to everyone - R2R was founded on the simple premise to develop a warm, friendly, suitable place to gather and discuss this hobby for people of all ages, backgrounds, and experience levels. Please avoid personal attacks and insults and remember that even if you are right, it is still not okay to be rude. The “Be Nice” policy is something we take very seriously. This can be especially challenging when we perceive personal judgments - please work to separate the problem from the people and focus on addressing the problem.

 

[ナイトコア猫]

Right, I started with dry rock (hence uglies/dino) but there's a lot of pourus areas. So if you're saying I have these zones I'm not sure how the bio brick will help it more

I think @Klyle + @Hurricane Aquatics are suggesting more of such areas will help contribute to nitrate and phosphate reducing perhaps. Concur with what @Erin1971Texas says: this strategy takes a long time, but it's not bad to plan ahead. Worst case, it helps with overall stability, because it's a place for different kinds of bacteria to live.

In the interim: I think the key will be to get the bacteria action in the carbon dosing to start. It's possible that a longer wait is needed, but it's also possible the amount of dosings is not comparable to the amount of nitrate and phosphate generated from food and waste.

 

[Biff0rz]

I think @Klyle + @Hurricane Aquatics are suggesting more of such areas will help contribute to nitrate and phosphate reducing perhaps. Concur with what @Erin1971Texas says: this strategy takes a long time, but it's not bad to plan ahead. Worst case, it helps with overall stability, because it's a place for different kinds of bacteria to live.

In the interim: I think the key will be to get the bacteria action in the carbon dosing to start. It's possible that a longer wait is needed, but it's also possible the amount of dosings is not comparable to the amount of nitrate and phosphate generated from food and waste.

Thanks, this helps. Once I get a job I'll pick up some bricks and hope those help in the months to come.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Thanks, this helps. Once I get a job I'll pick up some bricks and hope those help in the months to come.

Honestly, Matrix is less expensive… just get a cheap media bag (or some panty hose, lol)

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I try best to refrain from carbon dosing.

Why?

 

[Katherine Corals]

To watch their own but i ran a fuge for about a year and found that it’s just way more maintenance than i wanted to deal with. Also to macro algae does a good job of stripping out random elements that I’d rather my corals have. Yes you can dose Chaetogro etc, but then you’re just playing mad scientist. I don’t know why there’s such a negative attitude to carbon dosing. It’s so darn easy once you get it dialed in!!

Hey Kyle, I can understand why a fuge may be more maintenance for some. My refugium happens to be in an easily acceptable spot and not a problem to deal with in that manner. I do not use Cheatogro, or any other additive for that manner which effects cheato growth directly. I currently am using the reefmoonshiners program, and my elements are tracked bimonthly and I dose daily.
I should have rephrased my post, and I apologize for any confliction, carbon dosing just didnt work for me. I would start the schedule according to the charts, test daily, and for a week or so nothing would happen - then the next day everything is depleted and Im on the verge of crashing. I find better stability dosing bacteria directly, once weekly. I currently use Fuana Marin Bacto Therapy.

 

[Katherine Corals]

I didn't want to but if you read why I did it, nothing else worked. I had a refugium, macro's always died off. So I got an ATS which has been pulling gha out like crazy, but, no3 is still high. And The reason I say they're high even if your target is 40, my corals are not happy when its this high so I need to do something.

I can understand that, each tank is ran differently and therefore different levels work for different people. Perhaps though, its not the higher NO3 that is making your corals unhappy, but instead the mismatched redfield ratio of PO4 to NO3.

 

[Katherine Corals]

Why?

Hi Randy, thank you for asking and I should clarify better.
I personally didnt have the best experience when carbon dosing. I tired several of the different methods: vinegar, vodka, TM elimi NP, and NoPox. I followed a charting system I found from the R2R and gradually increased the dosing levels. I tested daily to monitor levels, and my experience would result in no changes for a week or so, and then suddenly the next day I was on verge or crashing. Today, my practices include dosing bacteria instead (Which some say is no different). I use Fuana Marin Bacto Therapy, once weekly, and I have a gradual change in nutrient levels instead of the plummeting drop.
From reading the post here, sounds like maybe I was dosing wrong? But now with adding Bacto Therapy things have been working wonderful.

 

[Klyle]

Hey Kyle, I can understand why a fuge may be more maintenance for some. My refugium happens to be in an easily acceptable spot and not a problem to deal with in that manner. I do not use Cheatogro, or any other additive for that manner which effects cheato growth directly. I currently am using the reefmoonshiners program, and my elements are tracked bimonthly and I dose daily.
I should have rephrased my post, and I apologize for any confliction, carbon dosing just didnt work for me. I would start the schedule according to the charts, test daily, and for a week or so nothing would happen - then the next day everything is depleted and Im on the verge of crashing. I find better stability dosing bacteria directly, once weekly. I currently use Fuana Marin Bacto Therapy.

I will have to admit, i think going the moonshine route along with a fuge is probably one of the best options out there. I would love to give that a try someday, just not realistic for me at the moment so i think carbon dosing is a super easy way to control nutrients!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

FWIW, I switched from several large macroalgae refugia to organic carbon dosing with a much smaller refugium with the intent to reduce costs associated with the electricity. I was happy with the switch, and found filter feeders such as sponges grew faster.

 

[Boogieman]

For me, carbon dosing has always taken longer than a month to start working. I want to say closer to two months. Either way it’s dependent on consistency and patience. Crazy the ATS isn’t lowering them!

What is ATS?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

What is ATS?

Algal turf scrubber. It’s a way to grow turf algae for nutrient export

 

[Boogieman]

Algal turf scrubber. It’s a way to grow turf algae for nutrient export

Oh yes ok. Thank you. Do not own one but have checked them out.